I fixed mine about 2 years ago now, my mast was just bent by the PO going through a car wash with it up. Just had to take it apart and gently work it back straight again. As for lubrication, I used synthetic brake caliper grease to lubricate the gears. Still works great, I also unplug the motor ...

As I recall you need to run lower profile tires on them to clear the strut but that is it for fitment issues

Car: 1997 SSE, L36.

So today I was leaving work and I unlocked my doors via keyfob, and the parking lights and fogs flashed rather then headlights, parking lights and fogs flash. I just discounted it as odd and hoped in for the drive home. During that drive home the DIC briefly flashed a warning ...

waaaait a second..... do you also own a really nice maroon t type? with the plate "89 t type"

and do you work at presto auto?

if so I think, we've met!

but I work in that brusca business park in Bridgeville.

I absolutely love those early SSEs.

also, you are not all that far away from where I work.

alright, about once every 2 weeks to a month I get a P0442. My gas cap is not even 6 months old, and was bought from the dealership. I've checked over vacuum lines. this is driving me nuts, where would I want to start here?

well thanks for nothing, but I got it figured out, the dash uses 2 types of lamps 168s and some sort of 74s. 74s are as close a match as I could find. and NAPA carries them. also, the replacement 74 was too big to fit in that area so i swapped it for the high beam indicator. all is well again.

my oil filter always used to drip oil right up until I replaced the oil pan gasket, now that whole area is nice and dry.

this has been driving me nuts for a little while now, when I forst got the car I pulled the cluster to attempt to replace a dash lamp, but It seems to be about 5 PCBs thick and before I go tearing into it I would like to know what supplies I will need to fix this.

http://users.zoominternet.net ...

I like to repair when I can. That way you are only out about ~$20 for the supplies to reboot it. but depending on how long it has been let go, It may be past the point of fixing if all the grease is gone, and dirt has gotten into it.

Moog, TRW, Spicer.

stay away from the autozone brand crap.

dosen't happen very often and they were all moderately clean at that!

http://users.zoominternet.net/~cdinunzio/resize/P6060071.JPG
http://users.zoominternet.net/~cdinunzio/resize/P6060072.JPG
http://users.zoominternet.net/~cdinunzio/resize/P6060073.JPG
http://users.zoominternet.net ...

torque stars, just cause i REALLY cannot stand the swoops

thanks, like I said when I pulled it all apart the evap core looked nice and clean. I guess the fan isn't all that powerful in the first place.

I'd wager your stalling to be due to a failing crank sensor, when mine was going it would do the same thing.

Good write up, but you honestly don't need to do about half the work you outlined, the engine is perfectly stable in the engine bay for the time you have the spacer out. Last time I did it took me about 15 minutes, with no wheel removal or engine supporting.

to add to this, a few days ago I read this and checked out my evap core, it looked nice and clean, didn't see any point in cleaning it, however I have moderately poor fan performance, how often to the blower motors themselves die?

geeze thats a whole lota money for something I just spent a few hundred to fix, and my AC system was hosed.

Compressor (used) $15
Accumulator $26
Condenser $150
Freon $30
orifice tube $3
PAG oil $15ish

First thing I did was replace my busted up compressor, it made AWFUL noises and the clutch was ...

wow 16 cars thats more then we had at the last.... 3-4 w body meets.

I kinda wish I coulda made it, but I had to be at a wedding all day.

one thing that I had happen was my drier went bad and it would not put out any PSI, replaced it and it has been fine since