When you say CPS, do you mean camshaft position sensor or crankshaft position sensor? The crank position sensor normally fails after it gets hot and you don't get spark.

I just went out and looked, there is a cap on that vacuum nipple on my non supercharged engine.

I dont have a NA motor so im sure mine is different. here is what a vac diagram says.. "To ACSRY".. your heater controls working correctly? the one of the SC motor lists one on the vac block as acsry ...

If it stalled and the tach wasn't working it's most likely the signal from the crank position sensor being lost; could be the sensor or the wiring from the sensor.

$200 for a Tech 2? Do tell...

My battery terminals are squeaky clean, but it ended up that the side-post bolts were loose...when I took the battery out to have it checked at the auto part store, I could see some pitting from arcing and knew what was up right away.

I have the same symptoms (bouncing voltmeter and dimming/flickering lights) but have not added anything aftermarket. Shifting and applying brakes seem to make it the most noticeable. I haven't done any troubleshooting yet, so hopefully someone here has some knowledge.

The fuel pump comes on for a few seconds when you turn the key to run to prime the system, and runs continuously with the engine running. Maybe you were hearing the pump for the air ride?

If you don't have a traction control off button then you don't have traction control - mine is this way, however it's an SE. Are you sure when you spin the tires that the LOW TRAC light isn't lighting up?

There are left and right fuses for the rear parking lamps in the rear fuse panel (under the back seat), and they are separate from the stop lamps. Could be an easy fix...


Edit: oops, missed that you checked fuses already

Plugs especially...

I'm pretty sure the mileage on the 00+ is stored in the cluster. There is a piece (board or chip maybe) that you can switch and the mileage will be correct. Search around, I don't know which piece it is.

Edit: here you go - last post.

http://pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=5200

I guess it could be the cluster, but I think it's much more common for the sending unit in the tank to fail.

http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... +fix#p2508

Oh I wasn't suggesting that nobody should use dielectric grease, just that it needs to be used properly. Coating the contacts in insulating silicone grease before making the connections is not the way to go. Use the grease after the connection is made.

Mechanical Mike wrote:Give everything a coat of dielectric grease before reconnecting.

Don't coat contact surfaces with dielectric grease. Dielectric grease is silicone based, and non conductive, like the insulation on your plug wires. It does not enhance the mechanical contact or conductivity of the connection.

Definitely not crank sensor or fuel pump if starter doesn't spin. Trace the purple wire from the starter back to the fuse panel and see if there's 12 volts at the fuse panel. There is also the starter relay and a circuit breaker in the fuse panel. I don't know if the circuit breaker automatically ...

dreadpiratesteve wrote:As I've stated, the security system is not tripped, the security light does NOT stay on when you turn the key.

Sorry 'bout that, I read wdudetocool's post as yours.

You won't be able to bypass the security. Did you check all the fuses under the hood and under the seat? Text below is taken from the owner's manual, however mine is a 2003. Someone else will have to verify if the function is the same in yours. If you read past the how-to activate, it appears to ...

It's kind of hard to find that APN kit...there's a link in the how-to on here though.

Found it:
http://www.ineedparts.com/auto-parts/in ... 17806.html

You might check at the dealer as well. The parts department at the local dealer only charged me $11 bucks for the key and to cut it by VIN.

Yes, set the meter for DC.