Alrighty then thanks dude

Got my new wheel bearings in the mail yesterday and now all I need is that anti-seize compound. Just wondering is there a specific kind I need? Also money is tight so the cheaper the better if anyone can reply with a link. Thanks fer reading y'all

I'm over here with my Type R 12's and a 800rms amp while Larry has a trunk full of batteries lol. Respect

I'm currently out of work (self employed) and might have to sell my bonnie :woowoo:
Almost at 197,000 miles, runs and drives great, all new cooper tires, R1 rotors w/ ceramic pads, rear monroe air shocks, new brake lines, thermostat, etc. KBB says "fair" condition is $2590 but not really sure about ...

you could go custom and run wires to the glove box and install the new unit in there. keeps that stock look but the old one wont work lol, alot of people do this for old muscle cars and i kinda like the idea

Lately I've been noticing my front end giving me all kinds of grief. It pops when I turn, groans around right hand curves, shakes sometimes. Thinking it could be the ball joints so I'm probably going to replace the lowers and do the front struts while I'm at it since they are most likely stock. I ...

Check the little elbow hose that goes from the blower motor to the firewall. Mine fell off and I had kinda the same problem

My trunk button doesn't work either but I don't mind using the key. And if you have subs they can't be stolen (quietly and quickly anyway) lol

Personally I'd throw those type E's in the garbage lol and get type R's or X's. No offense bro

You can always unhook the lines and run new if the shocks are in decent condition. Cheap fix but you have to fill it with air manually after that

I had to do the idler pulley not too long ago and this is how I did it. Get a floor jack with a block of wood to hold up the motor. Next get the bolt out of the mount so the engine can be jacked up or down (wherever you need it). This should give enough wiggle room to take the pulley/belt off. Good ...

Update: Today I solved my heat problem :bwoohoo: and the cause was a little angled rubber hose that hooks to the blower motor into the firewall. When I figured this out I just had to laugh at my stupid self lol. I am pretty surprised that nobody even thought of this but figured this post might help ...

@ repin- Yea my bonnie has the same two little 4 inch sections of the braided line (for flex while driving I guess).
@ beast- Good insight. Steel is pretty cheap but brass sure isn't. Had to buy two unions today for like $3.50 a piece at Oreillys. Talk about a rip off! lol

The other day a couple of my brake lines started leaking, already got one fixed. Anyhow while bending the new line I was wondering why in the hell they don't just make all the lines rubber or braided steel out of the factory? I mean it's rubber by the caliper and braided steel up by the master ...

Drain all the oil, that should fix it hahaa

Hmm I'll check on that tomorrow and post back

Kinda hard to describe but the air blows really good through the floor vents (still not warm air). When I switch it to the dash vents it seems like its blocked or something b/c it hardly blows any air. I'm about ready to sell b/c of this STUPID problem

Double checked today and everything is moving smoothly. I really don't wanna take this dash apart for nothing :(

My car is still pumping out room temperature air AT BEST and not sure what the problem is. Took the glove box out and peeped through one of them holes to see the air mix actuator arm movement and everything moves smoothly when I turn the climate control temperature up and down. Both heater core ...

My guess is there could be rust in your tank/filter or maybe the connections for the pump are a little loose. It's never anything easy lol