Their website is http://www.4s.com/4%20Seasons%20Products-Compressors/Content.aspx I believe the one I am interested in (HR6) is listed in the H6 family.
They are under "Standard Motor Products, Inc." http://www.smpcorp.com/ROOT-Home/Content.aspx

re: bad clutch
Will you go with just the clutch? or ...

I am 90+% sure that my AC compressor has locked up. It smoked the AC clutch (smoke rolled out of it like a locomotive). I'm running with it unplugged right now.
Anyway, I'm considering a new replacement assy. from Rockauto.com; a 4-Seasons Premium #88967 (2-yr warranty & 10 cylinders).
Q: Just ...

Yes, and it could also be running in the "limp home" mode, if it is having an ignition control problem. Often, the engine feels like it is going to "fall out." 94-95 has that goofy OBD vintage (OBD-I with OBD-II connector) that makes it tough to check diagnostic codes without a plug/wiring adapter ...

Even though you have replaced all those ignition system parts there is an accepted test (from FSM) that will help you find or eliminate an ignition misfire. Basically, here it is:
1. Start it up with the IAC disconnected and go to your coils. It says not to run for more than a couple minutes with ...

OOOps. My bad. Glad that got corrected so soon.

Alldata est. 1.5 hrs under warranty, but standard is 2.1 hrs. So right on, there.
I did my 93 years back with only a Hanes and I remember it as a PITA, esp. the wiring that came with the switch. The OEM part from the dealer didn't have the headlight cleaner function. But I didn't discover that ...

I think my 93 is the same.
Sensor signal feeds into ICM on WHT/BLK wire. Is probably next to last wire on one end.
ICM feeds signal out to PCM on Black wire.
On the way to the PCM, it also goes through the 8-way connector, which should be near the passenger, rear side of the intake manifold, on ...

That is often used for quick troubleshooting. If you unplug the MAF sensor with the motor idling, and it dies, that is an indication that the MAF sensor IS working... that it is good.

Overlooked your question re: the TPS
Check this techinfo on that http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/forum ...

MStokes wrote:Thank's to all who responded. Loose motor mount on front of engine caused problem. Car ran great going home.

Possibly, the motor was getting shaken and, in turn, some item on it was killing the engine. Anyway, yeh, glad you have smooth sailing again.

Don't overlook ICM connector.

Something that worked for me when nothing else would was a suggestion from Bill Buttermore. Using enough socket extensions to get the breaker bar outside the fender, support the outer end on a jack stand (adjusted and blocked to the proper height). This will allow you to get more grunt on it or use ...

Try cleaning the MAF sensor w/spray MAF cleaner (NOT carb cleaner!). A dirty one will cause a nasty dead spot right off idle, mainly when "stabbing" the throttle hard. It's not as noticeable with a slower acceleration.
http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh18/Lytnbug/Bonneville/MAF.jpg
The two ...

Just to share what I did... in case you run out of options. This is kind of a weird way to do it, but once you get your hand up in there and try to navigate it might make sense.
I was able to remove the relay by feel.
But then realized I didn't notice the pin alignment. So cursed and used the one ...

Sometimes you can reform the female pins on the harness connector to grip tighter. I would recommend concentrating on the pins for the Pink/Black and the Black/White wires, which is your main power and ground feeding it. Worth a shot.

I have a 93 SSE (NA). I was able to replace just the plastic pulley. Mine would "jump" considerably when I gassed it in Park (bearing drag). I had trouble getting the plastic one from Autozone to work (would lock when I tightened the LH bolt), so ended up with a metal one, for an SC motor, I believe.

If you know anybody that has a fuel pressure gauge, a good place to start is checking the fuel pressure at the rail. You, first, check it with just ignition on. Then monitor it when you start it. A ballpark figure is 38-42, depending on the mode. Let us know what you come up with there.

Since it is cheap insurance, one thing you might consider having with you is the exhaust pipe donut gasket that goes between the ex. manifold and pipe. Although, you may get by with just loosening the two nuts to provide some play and avoid screwing it up when you move the exhaust over.

Tore down dash traced the wires to the starter enable relay, diagram says it is on the left of the dash but don't see anything. Where is it and what does does look like?
1998 SSEi All I have is for a 93; hopefully it hasn't changed.
http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh18/Lytnbug/Bonneville ...

TPS - yes, that would cause a no-start condition. Cam sensor would too...it's odd that you have both going on at the same time.

EGR - that *shouldn't* cause a no-start.

Changing the TPS is easy, and the EGR valve is easier still. Cam sensor's rarely fail since all it is, is a magnetic pickup. BUT ...

I was wondering about the cat. i'm sure it is original.
The o2 was changed about a month ago.

Yes, it does have the obd 1.5 but has the plug for obd2

Tomorrow i'll drive home from work with the scanner hooked up to see if there is any kr. it should read 0 correct?

I also have ohmed the coils ...