Sorry to take so long in replying. She’s my daily driver. First I had access to a lift only to find out that the only way to change to rear control arms was to drop the rear frame for access to the control arm bolts and I had to have her back together that afternoon, so I decided to try just ...

I've been looking for replacement housings to no avail so far.

Mine didn't turn because of the baking, but have because of the exposure to the elements.

I ended up getting the replacement control arms and trailing arms from harofreak. they should be here this coming Monday. It ought to be a quick swap out. I'm on a really tight budget right now and can't really afford the mechanic approch right now

Well Ken, after reading you post that you were having the same problem that I am currently experiencing. Did you end up using the after market bushings?

The ride height seam about normal while stationary, however it has been while since I’ve had an alignment. I don’t know if it is related to my current problem or not, but for a long time I’ve thought that I was hearing the fuel pump running back there, but it was the air pump. It use to cycle on and ...

I replaced the rear shocks 2 weeks ago and since then it seams like the rear of the car is slipping, drifting around or not tracking the front end at highway speeds particularly if I hit a spot that lifts the some of the weight off the rear. It feels pretty squirrely for that split second then ...

I like them!

The screen on your oil pickup tube could be stopped up. How often was the oil changed? When you take off the oil filler cap and look in at the top of the valve train is it clean?

As for driving or reving the motor more than likely the damage has already been done the bearings or crank shaft ...

Welcome to the club

I have bought and installed a Global aftermarket fuel pump off of E-Bay. Not the whole assembly, just the pump, filters and drinking straw fuel line which I threw away. It’s kind of late to be asking for input being I’ve already bought and installed it, but I was wondering if any one has done this ...

Well guys as willwren stated the fuel pump wasn’t the reason for the volt gauge malfunction. I replaced the pump and still have the same problem with the volt gauge.

Check your fuse box's. The diagram in the lid will show you where the signal fuse is located. It would be real easy to varify visually once you remove the fuse and look through it If the strand is burned through in the middle then you know that is your problem. If you replace it and it blows again ...

I don't see how those guy's that I see at those Quicker Sticker places would pick up on the clear with no reflective insert. It seams like I've seen a few of the newer vehicles that don't have anything but amber bulbs.

I certainly don’t want to recommend you do anything that might cause you a problem .

Are the inspections so strict there that they put a code scanner on the vehicle?

The history code will stay there until you delete or erase it but won't come back on if you've fixed the problem.

Did you erase the old code with your scanner?

I haven’t really looked for the Silver Star’s yet, but I’ve found the Sylvania 3057A’s at the local part house. Is there a big difference between the two?

Yeah it’s a frustrating problem for sure. All of the gauge needles sweep when I fist crank the motor up. I think it’s a self check before settling on where the need to read. I don’t know why, but I keep thinking back to when this whole problem originated and I remember hearing the fuel pump cut on ...