What's the best place for me to tap for my boost gauge on my L36?

I have an Autometer SportComp2 sitting in a box and haven't gotten to throw it on my Monte yet haha

Oxygen sensor?

Sounds like the car is running right when it's in open loop and the PCM is just dumping fuel until the car warms up, then it goes to closed loop and uses the MAF and Oxygen Sensor to figure out the fueling.

I have to upgrade the injectors on my Monte Carlo SS for my CSC build.

I can snap pictures of the process when I get it done.

If you are getting a code, have you tried replacing the oxygen sensor?

Also could very well be the MAF readings if it isn't a vacuum leak.

No problem, report back if it helped!

It's a 12" rotor and an 18" rim

I wish I did black brackets because I think that would have looked better.

Check this out: http://www.3800supercharger.net/diagnosing.html

Disconnect the BBV and see if you get the power back.

Last time you changed the supercharger oil?

I would assume it's an issue with the boost controls.

I did red calipers and red brackets on the Monte and I'm wishing I did black brackets

Jack up car, take off the tire. Then it's just a matter of 4 bolts. 2 take the caliper off, then remove the brake pads (remember and label where they came from if you aren't replacing) and the other 2 take the bracket off.

Use a little white lithium on the bolts when putting them back in if they ...

Is this the image you mean?

Any high-heat paint with a nice clear coat should last.

I really like the G2 paint kits. Powdercoating is always a great option too.

On my MonteCarlo forum a member had an electrical issue with his 2011 Cruze. Might be a wiring issue that needs to be fixed under warranty.

Take a quick read through this thread: http://montecarloforum.com/forum/monte- ... uze-45829/

It's never recommended to put a clamp on the cat because of how hot that area gets.

Personally it sounds like it's a Torque Converter lock-up problem.

Put the car in 3 and drive. If it doesn't do it, then don't worry about your engine, it's the trans.

On W-bodies, the resonator heat shield traps water and the seam is known to pop there.

Could it be as far down as that?

Piece of cake, just follow the upper radiator hose to the housing.

Should come with a new gasket, just drop it in and make sure it's not upside down haha

xyeLz wrote:Why such an odd number if you don't mind my asking?

Because I do a lot of "city" driving and didn't want my fans on all of the time. From driving around it seemed like a good compromise of a temp.

I dropped my fan speeds to 192