In my experience, the traction control is fairly useless. If you take off on a wet street, it is distracting when it kicks in - I'd be happier to just let the wheel slip and cope with it. And it never helped me if I was stuck on snow or ice. It's too bad you can't easily shut if off and have it stay ...

I agree with the comments above - the gas gauge is close to useless on my '92. Every time I fill up, I reset the trip meter, and I use that as a guide. It also gives you a good way to easily calculate your mileage, every time you fill up. I get 18-22 MPG, depending.

Yes, you can make inverted flares if you need to, in order to join up two lines. The bubble flare unions are available, but a bit hard to find.

When I did mine, the proportional valves were available from AC Delco, a bit cheaper.

Check out parcelparts.com, they have lots of brake line hardware ...

Thanks for the TPS idea. I will have to keep my scan tool plugged in and see what the TPS reading is before I start up.

It bangs in neutral too. I have tried slipping it into drive, but that isn't much gentler ! I suppose at least it wouldn't be hitting the parking pawl, in neutral.

I normally see ...

"Getting back to the second thrust of this thread, any more advice on what to expect when the tank gets dropped?"

Well expect it to be heavy unless you get most of the gas out !!! But seriously - I don't know about your particular vehicle but with mine the exhaust has to come down first.

The next ...

I had a lot of rust in my windshield channel, along the top edge of the roof. It was rusted bad underneath the molding. I needed a new windshield anyways, so I had someone come out and remove it, and made arrangements for them to come back at another time to put in the new one.
I carefully picked ...

Sounds like it needs a shop and a test of some sort. Fuel system pressure test maybe? Something to pinpoint exactly where the leak is.

I hope dropping the tank for the sender unit isn't part of this...

A test won't do you any good, it's very obvious from the pictures that it is either the steel ...

I have just finished plugging up every vacuum leak I could find, including a bad s/c gasket, leaky vacuum tank, leaky s/c solenoid and cannister purge valve. The car idles and runs great now but I still have this nagging hot start problem. If I shut off the engine when it is hot, and then re-start ...

Most likely it is the rusted steel line that is leaking. I think you will find that is part of the sending unit inside the tank. You can't just use any old piece of rubber fuel line, the pressure is too high. If the connector to the steel line is bad, there are companies out there making repair kits ...

I'm not sure about your car but on my bonnie the heat shield is held in place by large 3/16" pop rivets. In that case if the rivet is broken just take a small punch and hammer and push it up and out of the hole. If yours has screws, maybe you can use rivets in other locations.

The GM part number for the oversized fitting is 11516404. I believe it is 12mm thread.

Transmission lines, oil cooler lines and ps lines should all still be available from GM. There must be a GM resource in sweden somewhere.

Ok so I am answering my own post. I sent my axle via UPS to a place called ARC remanufacturing co. in Astoria, NY. They received it at 10AM on Tuesday and let me know they were done with it at 3pm. They shipped that same day and I had it back on Wednesday, UPS Ground. Amazing service. The axle looks ...

I've been wracking my brain trying to figure out how the noise and the gauges are related. If the two things always coincide, then they have to be related.

My theory is that you could be shorting out something that lowers the voltage that powers the cluster, without dropping your main voltage ...

BTW, I purchased a supercharger tensioner pulley last week, a goodyear part. After 2 hours of running all the grease melted out of it and it was screaming at me. When I took it off, guess what was printed on the ball bearing? CHINA I'm so sick of cheap crap for sale. And it is even happening at the ...

If one rear brake is adjusted differently from the other, you will not get any braking until both sets of shoes (left and right hand) touch the drums, at which time the pressure in the lines will then increase enough to put some force against the drums. At that point, the adjustment is out of the ...

Just check the vacuum line going to it and see if it has transmission fluid in it. If it is dry, don't spend the money. Or take the line off and plug the end, and see if the smoking stops. By the way, an old style glass fuse makes a great vacuum line plug.

Also make sure you don't have a problem ...

I don't think it is an adjustment problem.

If the wheel cylinder has even a very small leak, it will get on the shoes and cause the wheel to lock up. You won't see this leak from the outside. In fact, even with the drums off it may not be apparent. Check for wetness near the rubber boots on the ...

When you say the voltage goes down below 12 volts, are you actually measuring it or is this just what the dashboard is telling you? The fact that the noise is associated with a change in your dashboard readings is the key to this problem.

If the voltage is really going that low, measured with a ...

It might be a long shot but could it be sucking up trannie fluid through the modulator valve?

I can't imagine you would have a wheel bearing bad enough to fail an inspection. And the price on that item is way out of line. Even a bearing from GM is not that much. And on the CV joint, never heard of that being an inspection item around here. That price is probably for a rebuilt CV axle, not ...