I go in for a state inspection and find... (FRAUD WARNING)

[bad.moshi]

... that I need $810.92 in repairs to pass inspection?!

Here's the story:
I've never noticed anything strange with my steering and suspension throughout my entire ownership of this car, except for something I'd mentioned earlier this month -- a broken sway bar end-link. I knew that this would need repaired to pass inspection, but as I recall they were around the $25 range. That's fine. Beyond that, my car has been babied on WV's terribly difficult streets and handles just fine, no odd noises from the steering or suspension, etc. However, I went to a local Monro to get an oil change and inspection (everyone else was full all day) and was told by the shop manager that I needed to fix ~$800 worth of items to pass state inspection. The rundown will be listed below. Firstly, he told me that most of these parts are things I'd never see coming until they just failed. When you see the list, you may laugh at that statement. Secondly, he told me that it would be, "much much easier to pay for these things with a new Monro card." That sounds shady enough. I looked at him as if I knew he was lying and he immediately got nervous and dropped the price ~$150 to a total of $647.80. I told him again that it would take too much of my financial aid for school and i'd rather walk than starve. He then dropped the price to $574.25. Even more than the entire situation, I find it particularly fishy that he can find over 230 dollars to drop from the price so easily. Correct me if I'm wrong about the prices, but I believe there's no chance that a wheel bearing can cost over $400!

Here's the mark-up.

Wheel bearing for right front side: $423.99
Rack $99.98
Stabilizer Link for LF $21.99
CV Joint for LF $78.98
WV INSP STIC $1.00
Labor $303.40
------------------------------------------------
SUBTOTAL: $929.34
-Misc. Uncredited discounts $355.09
------------------------------------------------
TOTAL: $574.25

Thoughts/suggestions? I'm already scheduled for a second opinion tomorrow from a mechanic with whom I'm much more acquainted. Unfortunately their shop happened to be busy the day I went to get my oil changed. Obviously, if there is a safety issue I'm more than willing to do what I can to get these issues resolved, but as I mentioned I haven't heard any squeaks, pops, grunts, grinds, scuffs, or creaks, nor have I had any issues with the steering and suspension components in my car. I suppose they could be going bad and I am unaware, but the shop owner at my appointment on Tuesday has offered to take me under with him and point out anything that is truly an issue. I was refused when I asked if I could visually review the issues with the manager at the previous shop (and the car was even still on the racks!).

[petraman]

Oh god, you went to monroe? RUN! Those chain places are evil, I would only go to a local place that people know and trust. Also, how in the heck did they test the wheel bearing if you can't feel it, and why would it make you fail your inspection? Same goes with the rack... Something's very fishy, take it somewhere else...

[myfirstbonnie]

Do you have any abnormal indicators on the dash? I am not sure about the inspection requirements inWV, but I would have to question the information also. I have gone to midas only once and will never go to them again. They were the ones that told me they could not put green antifreeze in my 95 because their "service guide" said it required dex-cool. Even though it already had the green in it.

But yeah, I would get a second opinion or see about it myself. Put the car up on ramps and take a look at the CV boots, the rack, and jack up each side and put a stand under it and give each wheel a wiggle test. Usually with the wheel hub you will either get a noise or a wheel speed sensor fault, but you might not.

[bad.moshi]

Yep, the place I'm scheduled for on Tuesday is a shop run by a guy my sister knows through business. He laughed when I told him I went to Monro and said he'd get me set up for some serious safety inspection. I was told once before that sway bars weren't even a part of the inspection but have recently become a part (as they were considered a luxury and not required for the functioning of the vehicle?). Anyhow, should these things actually need fixed, as I said, I have no qualms with paying for it. But there's too much of a stench around that estimate.

I haven't gotten any wheel speed sensor faults or anything such like that yet. I'll be keeping an eye on it. Thanks for your input!

[Roadtech195]

Wheel bearing, $110.00 at Autozone. The job takes less than an hour, do it yourself if you can. I can't say on the other repairs but I have done many wheel bearings and they are pretty easy. Search around I think you may find a write up on it.

[myfirstbonnie]

With no indications of a failure, I think he should make sure it needs replaced first. To me it sounded like they were trying to take him for a ride.

[wjcollier07]

How many miles?

[teleplayer]

I can't imagine you would have a wheel bearing bad enough to fail an inspection. And the price on that item is way out of line. Even a bearing from GM is not that much. And on the CV joint, never heard of that being an inspection item around here. That price is probably for a rebuilt CV axle, not just the joint.

Now you Could need a rack if you have a bad inner tie rod end, easier to just do the whole rack. And the price on the rack seems low, believe it or not.

The labor price is ok, taking out the rack and axle is a bit of a job. One thing they forgot is a front end alignment, which you would need if you changed the whole rack.

The fact that they kept changing the price should tell you to get far far away from that place, what a joke.

[Bugsi]

Sounds like a classic case of being taken for a ride. You'd kind of know if you had a bad wheel bearing. You'd be hearing it. As for the price quote on that wheel bearing, that's like highway robbery. I'd like to know how they were able to supposedly diagnose a wheel bearing on an inspection. That's pretty silly. Weel bearings aren't the type of thing you note on a visual inspection, it's one of those things where you'd be going "What's that SOUND from my wheel when I go around an on-ramp??

DEFINITELY time for a second opinion, and possibly worthwhile to report to the state. States generally do not like licensed inspection shops to be trying to defraud the public. (Although I'm absolutely certain that it happens all the time.)

[willwren]

Wheel bearing, $110.00 at Autozone. The job takes less than an hour, do it yourself if you can. I can't say on the other repairs but I have done many wheel bearings and they are pretty easy. Search around I think you may find a write up on it.

Friends don't let friends buy important parts at Autozone. Please don't buy a wheel bearing there. Buy your wax and oil there. Nothing else. Duralast parts are the lowest-quality bottom-bidding chinese manufacturing companies, and they change sources every 6 months based on new, lower quotes.

Wheel bearings are cheaper on Rock Auto and several ebay sellers, and are proven quality.

I also believe the topic author almost got taken for a ride. And I'd follow up with them when you're done with the second shop. Spread the word so others don't fall into that trap.

[bad.moshi]

it's one of those things where you'd be going "What's that SOUND from my wheel when I go around an on-ramp??

Yeah, exactly. I've been in a car with a bad wheel bearing and I've definitely been in a car with a failing CV joint. I know that both are pretty noticable, that's why I was suspicious of him telling me that those items are things that usually sneak up on you and break with no indication. Ha, oh well. I'm taking it to a shop today assuming I can get an appointment between classes. (classes till 10pm, buhhh)


As far as the mileage, it's pretty high. 132,956. There's lots of guys on this forum who have kept theirs running longer than that though, for being an older car it's still pretty sound! Or maybe I should say quiet. The engine in her is only around 86,000 miles though I believe. I can't remember the exact mileage on it when it was put in. It was before I owned the car.

[bad.moshi]

No problems found whatsoever other than the broken endlink, which, as it turns out isn't enough to fail inspection. I let them do the inspection unbiased, and showed them the invoice from Monro afterward. It passed before, they rechecked the issues Monro said I had, and other than the sway endlink, came up dry. They found no issues with my steering and suspension. I thought the mechanic was going to drive to Monro and slap the manager in the face when I showed him the list.

No one I know will ever go to Monro again.

[Red Rocket]

Glad to hear that it worked out well for you. Now go back to Monro and rub it in their face (kidding, sort of).

[myfirstbonnie]

Glad to hear that it worked out well for you. Now go back to Monro and rub it in their face (kidding, sort of).

I wouldn't rub it in their face, but I would go to their webside and scan the estimate and repair bills and let them know what happened. Buisnesses will want to know about things like this. That is probably a franchised buisness and the owner will probably take some action on it. If he doesn't then he deserves to have his franchise license pulled.

Nothing like the power of the pen.....................................if no response there, then try the BBB or a local paper.

[Red Rocket]

Glad to hear that it worked out well for you. Now go back to Monro and rub it in their face (kidding, sort of).

I wouldn't rub it in their face, but I would go to their webside and scan the estimate and repair bills and let them know what happened. Buisnesses will want to know about things like this. That is probably a franchised buisness and the owner will probably take some action on it. If he doesn't then he deserves to have his franchise license pulled.

Nothing like the power of the pen.....................................if no response there, then try the BBB or a local paper.

I know, I was just kidding. What you suggested is definitely the route to go.

[willwren]

Go back to them with the completed certificate from the second shop and ask to speak with the manager.

Ask the manager why you shouldn't report it. Stand up and do it. They need a wake-up call.

[Bugsi]

It might be worth talking to the shop manager, but I'd personally use a different strategy before considering that, and here's why:
-The manager probably knows and encourages his mechanics to write up large repair bills. If this is the case, your complaint isn't going to go anywhere, because you'll be dealing with the actual perpetrator, rather than someone who has a vested interest in not defrauding the public.

I'd write a letter. I'd include a Xerox copy of both invoices. And I'd send it to a headquarters office. I'd also send a copy to my state's Attorney General's office. And finally, if my state has a place associated with the DMV for licensed car inspections, I'd send a copy to whatever that agency or office is.

If you have a local television news station with one of those consumer protection people, I'd send one to that person too.

I'd use those strategies in hopes of actually getting something done about the problem.
But going to the store manager with problems like that would also be a lot of fun, and I might do that too, AFTER I did the above.

As for what they said about CV joints and wheel bearings being things that go without warning, those two things are at the top of my list of things that give you a lot of warning. CV joints will get clickety clackety long before they ever break, and wheel bearings make obvious rub-rub-rub or scrape-scrape-scrape noises. I think CV joints / axle shafts are one of those items a lot of shops like to tack onto an inspection in hopes of selling you more work. The first time my car went in for an oil change after my 60k warranty expired, I got a huge list of things my car needed, including CV joints, saying they were "slinging grease". -Now CV joints *WILL* do that, but I could see no grease anywhere, and subsequent inspections never seemed to show a problem again. That was 87,000 miles ago.

Moral: Second opinions are often a good thing when it comes to expensive car repairs.

[bad.moshi]

It might be worth talking to the shop manager, but I'd personally use a different strategy before considering that, and here's why:
-The manager probably knows and encourages his mechanics to write up large repair bills. If this is the case, your complaint isn't going to go anywhere, because you'll be dealing with the actual perpetrator, rather than someone who has a vested interest in not defrauding the public.

As it were, these were reversed. The mechanic actually didn't even charge me for the inspection they did because he has a sister in college and knew it'd just be wasting my money. It was his time, so if he didn't care to charge me, that's fine by me. The shop manager was actually the one giving me the totals, however it was the mechanic who took the payment cause the manager was busy. Hence only being charged for the oil change. So it IS the shop manager that's trying to BS me. Since I don't have class on Wednesdays I am going to go talk with him. The BBB already has a long list of complaints filed by people against Monro, but that local shop has none. According to how my conversation goes tomorrow, it may have one and the state may be getting a fax. I have friends that work at our school newspaper (which is one of the top in the nation) and I'll definitely be telling them about it hoping they may send out an article warning students of fraudulent charges. Of course, doing all of this without committing libel. I'm pretty aware of how to keep myself out of lawsuits and keeping the potential ones in my favor

[radomirthegreat]

Wow, I never knew that about Monro. I've only seen one here, but the manager seemed really honest with competitive prices. I wonder if the stores suck only because of the staff? Do you think there's someone higher up, like a regional manager or so, who enforces this type of highway robbery that bad moshi escaped?

[wjcollier07]

As far as the mileage, it's pretty high. 132,956. There's lots of guys on this forum who have kept theirs running longer than that though, for being an older car it's still pretty sound! Or maybe I should say quiet. The engine in her is only around 86,000 miles though I believe. I can't remember the exact mileage on it when it was put in. It was before I owned the car.

HAH! 133k is high? Just breakin in.

And yes, completely agree with Wren on the autozone thing. I've gotten so many parts from there and just had them fail for absolutely no reason...too many times they were just DOA. Make sure no one you know goes THERE either.

Also, broken endlink...that's WAY too easy to fix to ignore. And cheap. Handling must be horrible. You can get some energy endlinks and bushings and probably stiffen up your handling a little bit, and a lot from not having links at all. But then again to really bring it back, new struts would also be necessary, so, heh, maybe just the links for now.

Glad you got your sticker and you're on your way.