Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's, Olds 98 91-96, Buick Lesabres and Park Avenue 91-96. Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.
A couple of days ago two of my brake lines gave up
Anyone that can advice me of dimensions of the lines, length and what kind of connections I need to buy.
As I´m living in Sweden there isn´t many part dealers that know the dimensions.
Would like to have the lines made before I remove the old ones.
I have changed many lines on my '92. As far as I know they are all 3/16" lines. They have metric threads and "bubble flares". Standard english threads will appear to be the same, but they are slightly undersize and I don't recommend that you use them.
Unfortunately some of the lines have fittings on them that are larger than standard. (larger than what comes on a typical fixed length line) For example, the rear lines as they enter the proportional valves under the rear doors. The way I have got around that is to cut the flare off a new line, and either re-use the existing fitting or buy a new one from GM. (I think I have the GM part number if you get that far) If you do this you then have to be able to re-flare the end. You should only join the lines by flaring the ends, never use brass or other types of compression fittings or any sort of rubber line. So unless you are changing an entire line from one end to the other, flaring will be necessary.
If you are working on the rear, you will probably want/need new proportional valves as well. If all the lines coming out of the ABS unit up front are rusted, this is a nightmare of a job best left to someone with the patience of a saint. (Again, same brake line size with multiple sizes of fittings)
You have two choices on how to do this job. What I do is obtain a variety of different lengths of line and join them together with the correct couplings, making it come out as close as possible in terms of length.
The other option is to obtain the correct flaring tool and learn how to use it. In this case, you can buy a long roll of brake line and fabricate everything yourself. I find it easier to work with the first method, it's easier to get the lines back where they belong if you do them in pieces. Some lines can only be installed in one piece when the body is off the frame. And before you ask, none of the formed brake lines are available from GM.
Actually bending the lines is a labor of love. What I do is to remove them as much as possible without changing the shape of the line. Then I attempt to duplicate the original with the new line, bending with a combination of my hands and a simple bending tool.
You really can't have them made before they are removed, it's a custom job.
If your brake lines are gone, then soon to go will be the transmission lines, oil cooler lines and power steering cooling loop.
Jeeeezzzz... I wish i read this before i went through the headache. I had to replace the proportional valve because it snapped off on the inside and the lines were rusted through. 54 bucks at the dealership...ripoff .... Since it was rather difficult to find unions for bubble flares I had to cut and flare one piece of the bubble flare line to make it inverted flare. I had to do this wherever i was going into a gm component. PITA but is works...so. I guess you can call me a saint because i replaced the line from the abs unit with little problems. i didnt follow the stock configuration exactly, but close enough.
Yes, you can make inverted flares if you need to, in order to join up two lines. The bubble flare unions are available, but a bit hard to find.
When I did mine, the proportional valves were available from AC Delco, a bit cheaper.
Check out parcelparts.com, they have lots of brake line hardware. And ribetproducts.com. Both of them sell products from a Canadian company called FMSI inc. Ah, Canadian/US made - what a concept!
