When it's going to get colder than crap up here in AK.
With that being said, I have heard the 3800 is more efficent at hotter temps than cooler. Since I can't do anything about the external temp, can I drop in a 205-215°F thermostat? I only get ~15mpg in winter and ~20-22 in the summer.
Also, is there any way to make the trans run warmer? The transmission does not get above 110-120°F in winter. Same temp driving in town or doing 80 down the highway.
The Time Is Coming...
-
LeSabre in Buffalo
- Certified Bonneville Nut

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- Joined: Fri May 23, 2008 1:15 am
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Re: The Time Is Coming...
Your SSEi is a bottom-breather for cooling, so making sure all the factory undertrays are in place is a first step so it's not getting too much air and protect the transmission lines. Next is blocking off the lower part of the radiator to keep a lot of air from hitting the radiator. More benefits are slightly faster warmup and better heat retention when you're running around town. I'd make this block to cover most of the area visible through the bottom grille openings, and see where you're at temperature-wise since you can always make it smaller.
Blocking off your grille, just like blocking your radiator, will make your car heat up faster and retain heat better. Coroplast and hot water pipe insulation are popular block materials. Lexan if it will not shatter at the temperatures you will be seeing.
If anything, I'd recommend a 180* stat so coolant gets flowing faster and the PCM isn't throwing away fuel to warm up the engine to 195*. It's happy as a clam at 180*.
For the transmission, make a tall, skinny radiator block to go over the first 2-3 inches of radiator on the passenger side to block off the transmission cooler embedded into the radiator. Also, look into lower-viscosity transmission fluid with good cold-temperature specs such as Dexron-VI or Amsoil's new ATL. This way your transmission isn't straining to pump a thicker fluid.
Hope this gave you a few ideas!
Blocking off your grille, just like blocking your radiator, will make your car heat up faster and retain heat better. Coroplast and hot water pipe insulation are popular block materials. Lexan if it will not shatter at the temperatures you will be seeing.
If anything, I'd recommend a 180* stat so coolant gets flowing faster and the PCM isn't throwing away fuel to warm up the engine to 195*. It's happy as a clam at 180*.
For the transmission, make a tall, skinny radiator block to go over the first 2-3 inches of radiator on the passenger side to block off the transmission cooler embedded into the radiator. Also, look into lower-viscosity transmission fluid with good cold-temperature specs such as Dexron-VI or Amsoil's new ATL. This way your transmission isn't straining to pump a thicker fluid.
Hope this gave you a few ideas!
- SSEimatt93
- Senior Moderator

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Re: The Time Is Coming...
Ive used cardboard on part of my rad and ran a 195 tstat
Thats about it...-40 here we come
Thats about it...-40 here we come
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wjcollier07
- Certified Bonneville Nut

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Re: The Time Is Coming...
The transmission being 110-120 is actually acceptable. 150 would be better, but those temps ARE alright. simple solution is to just block off the airflow partially to the air to oil transmission cooler, and about half the radiator and condenser and you should be back up to normal temps. Cardboard would work nicely I imagine. And the 195 stat is probably the highest you're going to find available.
John
Now: '15 Toyota Prius III | 134 hp 2ZR-FXE | Silver | 36k
Now: '03 Honda CR-V AWD | Slow 4-Cylinder | Dirt | 180k
Then: '07 Ford Fusion SEL | 221hp Gen I VVT Duratec 3.0 V6 | Tungsten Silver | 150k
Then: '99 Toyota Avalon XL | 200hp 1MZ-FE 3.0 V6 | Diamond White | 189k | Sold: July 2015
Then: '11 Ford Fusion SEL | 240hp Gen II VVT Duratec 3.0 V6 | Ingot Silver | 84k | Totaled: Oct 23 '14 (Rear-Ended)
Then: '96 Buick Park Avenue Ultra | 240hp Series II L67 | Medium Dark Lichen | Bought: JAN 11 @ 135k | Accident: FEB 3 '12 | Crushed: MAR 1 '13 @ 153K
Then: '98 Pontiac Bonneville SSE | 205hp Series II 3800 L36 | Topaz Firemist | Bought: NOV '09 @ 74k | Accident: MAY 28 '10 | Crushed: MAR 15 '11 @ 84k
Then: '93 Pontiac Bonneville SE | 170hp Series I 3800 L27 | Dark Yellow Green | Bought: JULY '07 @ 92k | Sold: JULY '12 @ 118k
Then: '89 Pontiac Bonneville LE | 165hp 3800 LN3 | Medium Garnet Red | Bought: JAN '05 @ 117k | Sold: SEP 30 '07 @ 152k
Now: '15 Toyota Prius III | 134 hp 2ZR-FXE | Silver | 36k
Now: '03 Honda CR-V AWD | Slow 4-Cylinder | Dirt | 180k
Then: '07 Ford Fusion SEL | 221hp Gen I VVT Duratec 3.0 V6 | Tungsten Silver | 150k
Then: '99 Toyota Avalon XL | 200hp 1MZ-FE 3.0 V6 | Diamond White | 189k | Sold: July 2015
Then: '11 Ford Fusion SEL | 240hp Gen II VVT Duratec 3.0 V6 | Ingot Silver | 84k | Totaled: Oct 23 '14 (Rear-Ended)
Then: '96 Buick Park Avenue Ultra | 240hp Series II L67 | Medium Dark Lichen | Bought: JAN 11 @ 135k | Accident: FEB 3 '12 | Crushed: MAR 1 '13 @ 153K
Then: '98 Pontiac Bonneville SSE | 205hp Series II 3800 L36 | Topaz Firemist | Bought: NOV '09 @ 74k | Accident: MAY 28 '10 | Crushed: MAR 15 '11 @ 84k
Then: '93 Pontiac Bonneville SE | 170hp Series I 3800 L27 | Dark Yellow Green | Bought: JULY '07 @ 92k | Sold: JULY '12 @ 118k
Then: '89 Pontiac Bonneville LE | 165hp 3800 LN3 | Medium Garnet Red | Bought: JAN '05 @ 117k | Sold: SEP 30 '07 @ 152k



