Temperature Reading

[Spl170s]

This may be nothing, but i have noticed that my car doesn't seem to get very warm anymore. It has been cold in our areas off an on.....mornings on way to work can be 0-10deg lately...so maybe that is all it is...but my car only reads 170-180 on guage most of the time while driving to work on highway for about 30-40 minutes.

Before i know it use to get to 190-200 so that is why im wondering whats going on. is it just the fact that it is so cold out...or could this be something i need to be checking out?

I run dex-cool in the car and the reservoir is where it should be.....

[silverws6ta]

This may be nothing, but i have noticed that my car doesn't seem to get very warm anymore. It has been cold in our areas off an on.....mornings on way to work can be 0-10deg lately...so maybe that is all it is...but my car only reads 170-180 on guage most of the time while driving to work on highway for about 30-40 minutes.

Before i know it use to get to 190-200 so that is why im wondering whats going on. is it just the fact that it is so cold out...or could this be something i need to be checking out?

I run dex-cool in the car and the reservoir is where it should be.....

For starters get RID of the Dex-Cool and switch to Mixes with Alltypes --

2nd -- That is normal for Hwy Driving with these temps -- It was 19 here this morning and I drive about 20 mins on the interstate at 70mph and my car was 2-3 ticks below midway; I also have a 180 degree stat as well.

CW

[harofreak00]

Is your upper radiator hose pressurized after driving?

The stock GM Dash gauge will always read 200 when the ECT temp is between 180 and 221. This is so customers don't freak out when their gauge fluctuates all the time based on outside temps. Putting a 180 thermostat in the car only causes the t-stat to open at 180 not keep the car at 180 degrees. You need to have your fan points programmed to come on sooner in order to keep the temps down, especially at idle.

[Spl170s]

not sure on the pressurized question. will have to check next time i drive it.

so you guys are dumping the dex cool out of the car and switching to the mix with all type stuff? so basically just drain all from radiator and fill back up. while im at it i might as well put in a new T-stat.....should i go stock or cooler?

[harofreak00]

Yes, get the DEX out of there. Its not really as easy as draining and filling. You have to literally "flush" it. Using a garden hose works good.

Keep the stock 195 stat as long as you have a stock PCM. It will help you burp the coolant if you drill the stat.

Coolant fill procedure: http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... f=53&t=159

[Spl170s]

before i go draining, why is it so bad to run dex cool? i mean, if it is what they provided and spec'd by manufacturer, what is the benefits of dropping it? just curious.

to answer question before, yes the upper hose is pressurized after driving.

i have noticed the temp being closer to what i remember now too...since we have been in the 30-40's lately.

[harofreak00]

http://www.zillamotorsports.com/DEX/

[wjcollier07]

If your car was under warranty, we wouldn't tell you to dump the dex. Following the manufacturer's recommended fluids and parts is sometimes something you only want to do when it's under warranty..when you don't need to deal with the consequences of doing otherwise.

Unfortunately, DEXCOOL ages much more quickly than it should, especially considering it's marketed as a long life coolant. When it breaks down, it begins to sludge, and this sludge is highly acidic. The sludgy bits of the coolant build up around little spaces like between gaskets and such, and in these specific areas, it begins to deteriorate the gasket. This can lead to coolant getting into your intake, crankcase, or leaking to the exterior. Its simply not good stuff, lasts no longer than regular green coolant, and really isn't necessary in any way.

Edit: Sorry Andrew, didn't see your response..didn't mean to reiterate.