Subframe advice. Rear holes.

Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's, Olds 98 91-96, Buick Lesabres and Park Avenue 91-96. Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.
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SSEBonne4evr
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Subframe advice. Rear holes.

Post by SSEBonne4evr »

May have to fabricate a washer as my rear outer subframe is dropping
due to a trotted hole.
Question: Do the keyed flats on the rear holes go front to back, or right
to left?
I plan on making a plate that fits the inner contour of the frame.
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Re: Subframe advice. Rear holes.

Post by 95naSTA »

It's looking like front to rear in a pic in this thread:
http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... ml#p304343
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SSEBonne4evr
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Re: Subframe advice. Rear holes.

Post by SSEBonne4evr »

OK thanks, looks like I may have to fabricate something and place it below the frame.
Is the lower rubber hard to separate?
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96 SSEi
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Re: Subframe advice. Rear holes.

Post by 96 SSEi »

hi, up here in Canada, we have places like -bolts+ and brafasco - they sell fasteners and stuff.You must have the same in us - do a search on the internet and you wont have to fab. anything
poverty forces one to do unorthodox things

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Re: Subframe advice. Rear holes.

Post by MKMike »

SSEBonne4evr wrote:OK thanks, looks like I may have to fabricate something and place it below the frame.
Is the lower rubber hard to separate?
You may find this thread helpful http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... ut#p348281

The subframe is actually 2 pieces. You can replace the rear portion where the bearing holes rot out.

You might look for one from a warmer state. Sometimes you can find them on Ebay.
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Re: Subframe advice. Rear holes.

Post by Roadrunner »

At some point in the mid 90's they switched to a 1 piece frame. I always assumed that they switched to 1 piece for the Series 2 cars but I'm not sure ot that.
If you haven't already, I would first try to get the bolts out one by one. Do one & if it comes out, put it back in with antisieze on threads and go to the next.
If the blind nut inside the body has broken loose and bolt just spins then you have an additional problem to face.
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Re: Subframe advice. Rear holes.

Post by J Wikoff »

I got a rust free subframe from a yard in South Carolina on eBay recently. Shipped, it was $240 or something like that. At the time, they had a bunch listed, and represented the bulk of the listings.
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Re: Subframe advice. Rear holes.

Post by SSEBonne4evr »

Wow these are all good points.
I have to get under there and see if it still was a 2 piece frame in 96.
That would be so much easier.

I fabricated a large 4" washer under the frame. Surprisingly it worked.
Ground the OD to fit the underside frame cavity and the subframe is not going anywhere now.
Ride smooth with no noise, I could easily have this washer welded in from the underside.
Next nice day I will get it on ramps and check the rest of the mounts.

I do need an upper rubber bushing on one mount near the motor, heat must have took it out.
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Re: Subframe advice. Rear holes.

Post by MKMike »

Roadrunner wrote:At some point in the mid 90's they switched to a 1 piece frame.
No, they did not.
You may be confused by the fact that the subframes did change in the mid 90's but they were still made in 2 bolted together pieces.
I've done the subframes on a 93 and on a 98 ;Both were 2 piece subframes.
They disassemble at a point closest to the driver on the driver's side and a point near the radiator on the passenger's side.
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Re: Subframe advice. Rear holes.

Post by SSEBonne4evr »

work is progressing on the subframe. Got entire right side done, complete with
4" washers.

Come up short I rear upper rubber insulator bushing.
Anyone have one lying around from a previous project?

Just re-using the lower bushings.
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