This is the place to plan and find out about any meets in your area. Meets of Any size can be discussed here. PLAN your Meet here, then start a new topic for attendees after the details are worked out.
MattStrike wrote:Zipties count as secured, as long as the battery can't fall out. Otherwise I do have extra battery tie downs.
When I raced the LeSabre, I didn't have a battery tie down - I was allowed to race because the hinge for the hood and the A/C lines held the battery from moving when the hood was closed.
BBamm - that's horrible. But I know how you can take your mind off it, come to the meet anyway!!! A weekend relaxing with friends isn't just about your car. But in all seriousness, sometimes it's good to take your mind off the worry and blow some savings for a car meet; the biggest expenses are usually food and gas.
I hope everything gets sorted out for you in a timely manner though - there is always Woodward or next year!!
Wish I could... it's our anniversary on Monday anyway so I was pushing it by going and now with the problems... I just can't swing it. By the way, the seller sent a response to paypal saying they have receipts!! Paypal told me that's just a stall tactic and once they prove otherwise, they'll continue the investigation! Still at least a week out on getting my money it sounds like though...
2004 Bonneville GXP Crimson Tintcoat- Casual fuel gauge | Brake Performance drilled/slotted rotors front and rear| Retrofit Morimoto mini H1 | clear corners | disabled DRL | 3000K HID fogs | 5% tint | K&N | Yakima rack with fairing, bike rails and kayak rack | Intermittent radio display 1995 Bonneville SSEDeep Amethyst Pearl- SSEI tails | 5% tint | 3 12jlw3v2 in custom enclosure -Gone 1991 Bonneville LE Blue- Alloy spokes -Deceased(deer)
Wes wrote:I picked up a few loaf pans that are 9" x 5" x 3" to try a different technique instead of making a sprue tree. This will have better venting, and should reduce our chances of having gas pockets. If I drilled the corners to accommodate wire handles, would you feel safe using a hook to set these molds into the aluminum vacuum chamber to reduces bubbles further? The vac chamber is basically just aluminum tubing. It has about 12" ID, with a 30" or so depth. We would probably want to set a few bricks in the bottom.
Shouldn't be an issue, how does the vac chamber work, you put the molds in after the pour?
The melt furnace fired right up, this is at the lowest pressure the regulator will go:
So far I'm setting everything up to be a 2-man operation. Two people will have to pull the lid off, then do the pour, replace the crucible and lid. Sounds like we may need a third person to transfer the mold to the vac chamber while the first two reset. At the end, we will have to pour out whatever is left, so I'll see what I can do to make an ingot mold.
Boost addict
The Fleet: '93 SSEi - Twincharged + manual Build thread '97 Camaro - Top swap '05 STS - V8, AWD, her DD '92 Trofeo - Fair weather DD '99 Montana - top swap 3800 '04 Sierra 2500HD - LLY Duramax
Id have no problem helping with the furnace if need be.
-Austin- 1988 LE, Intercooled L67 loading......
2000 SSEi R.I.P. Dead now :( INTENSE FWI, polished LIM, P&P supercharger, custom radiator, standalone trans cooler, trans-go shift kit (donating to the 88)
2002 2500HD Silverado with the 8.1 Vortec and Alison tranny. Likes to eat GT Mustangs and lots of tires, and all while stock!
yourgrandma wrote:And thats how I got my mom pregnant.
If we had a vac chamber that could withstand the heat of molten brass, we would set the mold in the chamber, then pour, and immediately vac. Since the chamber is aluminum, I was thinking we would pour until we see metal come out of the riser(s), then immediately take the mold to the chamber for probably 15-20 mins at full vac. Not sure how much the vac will help, but I don't think it would hurt in any way.
The burner offset looks good, but I think we will heat the metal up faster, and use less fuel if we make a cylinder type shape with the bricks to help the flame wrap around the crucible. This will also help prevent having a hot spot. Do you have enough bricks to do something like that? If not, bringing in the walls closer to reduce the brick to crucible gap would be better.
Anyone know if flux will be necessary for such a small cast? Or is that more for when the metal is kept molten for long periods of time?
From what I've researched, we would need a flux of crushed charcoal (I have) for copper/brass, then a skimmer has to be held in place while pouring to keep the flux out of the pour. But aluminum only needs to be skimmed before pouring.
I have enough bricks to make it octagon-ish in shape by adding them in the corners of what I've already build, they just weren't in there for the first fire. I also need to figure out a lid that has a 5" or so hole in the middle, that plus the entry angle should create a nice vortex around the crucible and allow us to easily monitor the melt. Incidentally, that's similar to how you create a whirlpool in water: Bottom center drain, top tangential feed.
I got the tongs 90% done, ran out of wire in the welder, one weld short of a finished product..
Do you have access to any ceramics cones? If not I'll have to rig the kiln overheat safety. As long as we can monitor the temp on a regular basis we can control that manually.
Boost addict
The Fleet: '93 SSEi - Twincharged + manual Build thread '97 Camaro - Top swap '05 STS - V8, AWD, her DD '92 Trofeo - Fair weather DD '99 Montana - top swap 3800 '04 Sierra 2500HD - LLY Duramax
Cones? You mean the ones to monitor temp? I am unfamiliar with how those work as a hi temp safety. In my head I thought we would just tie the heater element leads to a 40A relay that is controlled by PID. Maybe I am not on the same page though.
I have a few J type t/c for the PID I am bringing. It is rated to 770C. Our peak will be 730C for the burnout cycle.
The kiln has a 50A 208V plug, there are 5x's 10A heating elements in it. If the PID can plug into a 50A 208v single phase receptacle and has a 50A outlet for the kiln, we're all set. If not I can figure it out as long as there is a schematic that comes with it, but if that's the case then it might take a few hours on Thursday to get it set up.
Boost addict
The Fleet: '93 SSEi - Twincharged + manual Build thread '97 Camaro - Top swap '05 STS - V8, AWD, her DD '92 Trofeo - Fair weather DD '99 Montana - top swap 3800 '04 Sierra 2500HD - LLY Duramax
I will bring a couple relays then. The PID will take single phase 120-240V, and same for the relays, but no outlet. I have an empty panel to mount them in where we can safely make our splices instead of having open wires though, and that can have what ever plug we need added to it. Can you snap a pic of the outlet that you have in the pole barn? I may have a plug here already if the one on the kiln doesn't match. Not too worried about having a schematic, should be pretty easy to wire up.
Is there any real interest in going to check out the detail shop and doing a little tour, maybe checking out some tools and products? Looks like the schedule is filling up so I need to know.
Ryan 2003 Bonneville SSEi - The Black Mirror SOLD! 2002 Bonneville SE - The MuttComplete 2004 SLE interior, drivetrain, and body harness swap, ECC swap, HUD swap, black GXP wheels, GXP headlights and tinted tails - SOLD 2003 BMW 540i M Sport, 2001 BMW X5 4.4i, 2010 GMC Acadia, 2017 Grand Design Imagine 3150BH 1982 Cutlass Supreme - The fun one
MattStrike wrote:It was the worst week of my life! *pause, drinks beer... smiles* But I'm better now!
I like the idea but schedule is pretty full. I think we should do it as a back up plan if the track gets rained out Friday maybe? Just my 2 cents.
-Nick
'95 Grand Prix SE coupe 'Black Betty' gone but not forgotten- my 1st love
'99 Olds Alero GX Coupe the get me by beater- sold
'03 Bonneville SSEi 'Gina' Feb. '16 COTM | 35% tint | smoked tail lights | boat roller mount | carbon fiber accents | Silverline exhaust tips
Ziebart rust protection & undercoating | CompuStar Accustart | LED interior lighting
Intense shift kit | Intense FWI | 3" ZZP downpipe | RDI headers | 3.4 MPS | Autolite 104s | 180 deg t-stat | custom tune | ZZP high flow fuel filter | alum coolant elbows and LIM gaskets | much more to come…hopefully '15 Buick Regal 2.0 Turbo AWD 259 HP | 10k miles | 2-way remote start | undercoating and window tint to come
'98 GMC Sierra SLE Z71 4x4 | 112k miles | S&B intake | garage ornament | more to come
On the way now we will be there at about 10 PM. Did you ever post your exact address Matt?
-Austin- 1988 LE, Intercooled L67 loading......
2000 SSEi R.I.P. Dead now :( INTENSE FWI, polished LIM, P&P supercharger, custom radiator, standalone trans cooler, trans-go shift kit (donating to the 88)
2002 2500HD Silverado with the 8.1 Vortec and Alison tranny. Likes to eat GT Mustangs and lots of tires, and all while stock!
yourgrandma wrote:And thats how I got my mom pregnant.
The address is posted in the Facebook group for the meet, otherwise PM him for it.
Looks like rain, I don't care, I'll have the tent set up and ready to rock!
Ryan 2003 Bonneville SSEi - The Black Mirror SOLD! 2002 Bonneville SE - The MuttComplete 2004 SLE interior, drivetrain, and body harness swap, ECC swap, HUD swap, black GXP wheels, GXP headlights and tinted tails - SOLD 2003 BMW 540i M Sport, 2001 BMW X5 4.4i, 2010 GMC Acadia, 2017 Grand Design Imagine 3150BH 1982 Cutlass Supreme - The fun one
MattStrike wrote:It was the worst week of my life! *pause, drinks beer... smiles* But I'm better now!
When is the coin minting happening? I got 2 pieces of copper to use for them. One is a fairly large block, apx 3" x 5" x 6". Do you have something to cut it down with or should I have it cut in advance?
Marc Not enough mods for me yet Too many mods for my wife already
I have a list of things left behind, a towel, a chair, a chair, an umbrella, tent bag, hot dog stakes. PM me to claim them (so far figured out a few items).
