Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's, Olds 98 91-96, Buick Lesabres and Park Avenue 91-96. Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.
My tranny's got a leak... I put a quart, sometimes 2 a week, depending on how much i drive.
The thing is it only leaks when it's running. I put some lucus in it, helped some but not much...
Any ideas would be great ty
Check the length of the case for cracks, check the pan for seeping, lines for leaking, coolant for red transmission fluid tint and seals at each end of the transmission, at the CV shafts.
John Now: '15 Toyota Prius III | 134 hp 2ZR-FXE | Silver | 36k
Now: '03 Honda CR-V AWD | Slow 4-Cylinder | Dirt | 180k Then: '07 Ford Fusion SEL | 221hp Gen I VVT Duratec 3.0 V6 | Tungsten Silver | 150k
Then: '99 Toyota Avalon XL | 200hp 1MZ-FE 3.0 V6 | Diamond White | 189k | Sold: July 2015
Then: '11 Ford Fusion SEL | 240hp Gen II VVT Duratec 3.0 V6 | Ingot Silver | 84k | Totaled: Oct 23 '14 (Rear-Ended)
Then: '96 Buick Park Avenue Ultra | 240hp Series II L67 | Medium Dark Lichen | Bought: JAN 11 @ 135k | Accident: FEB 3 '12 | Crushed: MAR 1 '13 @ 153K
Then: '98 Pontiac Bonneville SSE | 205hp Series II 3800 L36 | Topaz Firemist | Bought: NOV '09 @ 74k | Accident: MAY 28 '10 | Crushed: MAR 15 '11 @ 84k
Then: '93 Pontiac Bonneville SE | 170hp Series I 3800 L27 | Dark Yellow Green | Bought: JULY '07 @ 92k | Sold: JULY '12 @ 118k
Then: '89 Pontiac Bonneville LE | 165hp 3800 LN3 | Medium Garnet Red | Bought: JAN '05 @ 117k | Sold: SEP 30 '07 @ 152k
This might seem obvious after you think about it, but in general, the process for troubleshooting a leak is: (1) Find out where the leak is. (2) Fix whatever failed that allows the leak.
If it's a gasket or a seal that failed, replace the gasket or seal, clean everything off, torque everything back to specs.
If it's a crack in a casing, then you're best replacing the cracked part, although welded repairs or epoxy repairs are sometimes possible. But replacement with a not-cracked part is a better way to go.
If it's a leaking hose or fitting, replace the leaking hose, or re-seal the fitting.
If it's a leak in a radiator-style cooler core, those are sometimes repairable with solder, brazing, or epoxy, but replacement is usually better long term.
So basically, you just need to find out where it's leaking.
PontiacDad at WCBF `08: "By any chance, was his name. . .Radomir?"