It's no thoroughbred... (Woot! Pg. 5)

[wjcollier07]

Photos all downsized to 1024x768, SORRY about that! Dang batch converter didn't quite batch convert.

[WhiteArrow3800]

Wow, looks much better on your camera! I am diggin that color even more. And x2 what Gordy said, Ghetto Golds!

I'm almost jealous...almost.
Seriously though, nice find. Damage isn't all that bad really. But are those cigarette burns in the carpet by the drivers seat or what?

[harofreak00]

Sweet tat on the hood!

What kind of mechanic wears shorts?

[00Beast]

What kind of mechanic wears shorts?

My boss does in the summer.

[wjcollier07]

Haha. The 'tat' is going to be carefully removed and forgotten.

Yeah, that's Dallas, he's one of our "Tech IV" mechanics. ASE Master certified, retired from career at a GM dealer. Made sure to bring it to him to just make sure I wasn't missing anything. Glad to have the confirmation I didn't.

The ungodly noise was simply the pad wear indicator dragging on the rotors...so I bent the indicator back, bought some pads, and after a couple days of quiet driving to work...I'll throw em on there.

Biggest issues/needs for maintenance:
BRAKES! (Pads, rotors, wheel cylinders, shoes and drums are in excellent condition)
Oil change (was over 2 quarts low...needs a pan gasket)
Coolant flush (there is some FUNK all up in this cooling system)
Filters & Tune Up (fuel, pcv, air, plugs, wires) (funky idle, odd performance)
Cleaning of the MAF
Trans Tune, pan drop, and filter change (addition of cooler coming as budget allows)

Soon after:
trans cooler
180 degree intense stat
UIM/LIM gasket replacement, P-LIM
valve cover gaskets/oil pan gasket
struts
etc etc. y'all know the drill.

Ah, also. I do remember there being a common FPR issue with these...was that this year, how would I know if I'm affected or not before my UIM goes and explodes randomly? Don't REALLY have the extra dough to lay out at the exact moment, but if it means preventing that...

Already checked vac line, no failure of gasoline found in line..so the diaphragm is fine in that way..but I guess these...do something else.

[sandrock]

John, that box hanging down is the interface between the JVC stereo and the Bose amp. Guess what...you don't need it. Probably why your sound is crappy.

As for the FPR, I have a brand new adjustable one lying somewhere around in the garage.

[BlackHawk99]

A dealer can tell you if the recall had been done on the FPR. If it hasn't you can either buy the part and do it yourself, then submit the receipt to GM for remibursment. Or, you can just have them do it.

[00Beast]

Hey John, don't forget this!!!

Brand Suggestions are in the parentheses.

• 1987-2005 Bonneville / Buick 3800 Maintenance List
  
  Run Seafoam through gasoline and intake every 5,000 miles. One pint of Seafoam in a half tank of fuel is a good mix. The intake is optional, but recommended.
  
  Grease: Ball Joints, Tie Rods Every 8-10k ( Green Grease recommended)
  Air Filter Every 15k (Amsoil EaA, Purolator PureONE)
  PCV Valve Every 30k
  MAF Sensor Element Cleaning/TB Cleaning Every 50k viewtopic.php?f=48&t=1661
  Fuel Filter Every 15-25k (Purolator, AC Delco, WIX)
  Spark Plugs Every 30-50k (NGK TR55 or Autolite 605) (Never Bosch)
  Ignition Wires Every 30-50k (Napa Belden, AC Delco, Autolite Pro, NGK) (Never Taylor or Bosch)
  Oil & Filter Every 5-6k or Every 6 months (Mobil1 or Amsoil)(Mobil1, Purolator PureONE, Amsoil EaO or WIX) (Never Fram) viewtopic.php?f=45&t=214
  *Conventional Oil Every 3k/3 months(Pennzoil with a WIX (Napa), Delco or Purolator filter)
  Transmission Flush Every 15-20k (Always make sure filter is changed when flushed)
  Cooling System Flush Every 25-50k or 3-5 Years (Peak or Prestone Green Coolant Only) (Never Dexcool)
  Oxygen Sensor Every 80-100k (30k for non-heated) (AC Delco or Denso) (Absolutely never Bosch) viewtopic.php?f=48&t=794
  Accessory Belt Inspect every 15k, replace every 100k, or as needed
  Cabin Air Filter Inspect and Replace every 15k, or as needed in dusty conditions. (Note: 00+ Only)
  Evap Core Cleaning Whenever Needed (Note: 99 and older only) viewtopic.php?f=45&t=2432
  
  *Special Considerations*
  All 3800s, LG3, LN3, L27, L36, L26, L67 & L32, especially important on vehicles factory installed with orange Havoline Dexcool Antifreeze/Coolant: http://www.dex-cool.net/
  Lower Intake Manifold Gasket Replacement, every 80-100k (ignorance of this can allow coolant to enter your engine oil, this happening can cause irreversible lower engine damage, requiring replacement of subject engine)
  
  Series II, Naturally Aspirated, RPO:L36:
  Upper Intake Manifold Plenum Replacement, Every 80-100k (ignorance of this can allow coolant to enter your intake manifold, possible damage to occur can be hydrolock, irreversible damage to emissions devices, misfires, etc. Most times, engine replacement is required if ignored long enough.) viewtopic.php?f=53&t=1061
  
  Series I, II, III RPO Code L67 & L32:
  Change Supercharger Oil; Every 30-50k. (Intense Racing or GM Dealer) viewtopic.php?f=56&t=1690
  Supercharger Belt; Inspect Every 15k, Replace Every 100k or as needed.
  
  Rev. 11/12/09 By 00Beast

[Sadden]

Whats wrong with the tat?
YAY it the maintenance list everyone loves the maintenance list... *cough cough*
LOL you seem to be missing a boost gauge.....?
JK.
Looks to be pretty nice.
Whats your opinion on the "wood" (thats not real wood in there is it..?)

[wjcollier07]

John, that box hanging down is the interface between the JVC stereo and the Bose amp. Guess what...you don't need it. Probably why your sound is crappy.

As for the FPR, I have a brand new adjustable one lying somewhere around in the garage.

I'm gonna tear out the head unit when I get a chance in the next few days and see what's all up with the wiring. I'm finding that the sound isn't HORRIBLE, it's just lacking in lower frequency response because of the blown, cheap speakers...more of just an annoyance for the time being since audio isn't REALLY on my priority list when it comes to spending money.

Another oddity that I need to learn about (I've been spoiled by the truck's fully digtal option menu DIC) is how to program the keyless entry settings. Currently, unlock flashes lights and unlocks both the driver door and driver side rear door, and TWO more clicks of the unlock button will finally unlock the other side. Lock flashes lights and honks the horn. I'm basically wondering if it's possible to change it so that it only honks when lock is hit twice, only the driver door unlocks with the first unlock, and the rest unlock on the second.

Other thing I noticed is that the power mirror control toggle is pushed into the socket..and is not allowing mirror adjustment which is going to aggravate me beyond comprehension if I don't fix it, so that's on the list too.

Transmission in this car is very interesting...it sort of feels like it belongs in a much smaller car...I've actually yet to floor the car from a stop... shifts are responsive, but slightly harsh, and the torque converter lock and unlock is REALLY noticeable...let off the gas it shudders, get back on lightly, it shudders...ugh. Hopefully my favorite transmission remedy works just the same as it always has for me in 4T60s. Also...sometimes it feels like its slipping, and then catches...not too sure how to describe it, but its kinda strange. We'll see if it goes away after a few transmission treatments...I'm actually quite sure that the pan has yet to be dropped in the life of the vehicle.

Car is perfectly quiet on the highway with the exception of some ungodly wind noise caused by what appears to be a small amount of missing rubber, and a rubber seal that was found to be pinched flat by a piece of the roof trim.

Mileage seems about right...I've gone about 80 miles on a quarter tank of gas pretty much 90% city driving, not being too conservative with fuel. Just threw in a bottle of Techron concentrate this morning for 'up to 20 gallons' into a tank that had about 10 gallons in it. Nothing crazy..but i've already felt a small improvement in its drivability. Seems to be waking up a little. Hit the gas sort of abruptly with the traction control off (didn't floor it), and it broke em loose for a second...so I'm pretty sure this is a *dang* healthy engine. Can't wait to get a P-LIM on it with a 180 stat and new plugs, wires, fluids and filters.

[00Beast]

YAY it the maintenance list everyone loves the maintenance list... *cough cough*

Well the OP compiled about 95% of the Maintenance list. I was just reminding him of it, lol.

[wake]

well john...if ya go to get rid of that head unit...shoot me a pm first

[Jrs3800]

John we are going to get that car right yet.... I still can't wait to see it in person... If you really wanted to we could wire around the Bose amp... But if you were to get the right speakers i think we could having sounding pretty good.. I am wanting to wire in my 240w 4 channel amp into my 95 to beef up the JVC head unit... I love the HD and Circle Surround just needs the power to bring it out...

I'm sure John will have a list of what needs to be done to the car... He will have taken care of some of it.. But the rest we'll deal with when he makes it back over this way...lol

[wjcollier07]

YAY it the maintenance list everyone loves the maintenance list... *cough cough*

Well the OP compiled about 95% of the Maintenance list. I was just reminding him of it, lol.

Yeah, sure, blame it on me.

Yeah Don...I know you and Brad smell that fresh meat.

[LeSabre in Buffalo]

John, when you do the transmission, put in Dexron-VI and the $5 Lowes Motorsports shift kit. That'll make a very nice difference in how it behaves, and the Dexron-VI is much more heat-resistant than Dex/Merc fluid. I'm loving the combination in my LeSabre. It was about $65 for the shift kit and 14 quarts of SuperTech Dexron-VI (yes, it's GM-licensed).

Also, what worked for me to get rid of the torque converter shudder was running Auto-RX in the transmission for a few thousand miles, then changing the fluid. It's not cheap, but darned if it doesn't work.

Is the "slip then catch" happening when you're first taking off from a stop under decent throttle?

[wjcollier07]

Now Purchased:
Air Filter (Purolator PureOne)
Fuel Filter (Purolator)
Pennzoil Platinum & M1 Filter (Found Walmart's 5 quart bottle is cheaper than Advance's $4.99/qt sale )
Throttle Body Cleaner (no matter where I go...MAF sensor cleaner is out of stock! WTF?)
Seafoam Trans Tune (1 can now in transmission, shifts getting better, shudder softening)
Seafoam (Seafoamed through the intake this morning)
Front Wearever Silver Semi-Met Pads (yes, they're temporary)
Brake Cleaner

Still need to get more brake cleaner, two wheel cylinders, brake fluid, trans filter kit, and transmission fluid.

This engine is HAPPY. Throttle response is FANTASTIC. It could be the Sam's club tires, but it breaks em loose from a stop if you go anything past 1/2 throttle. The transmission is VERY moody...its not slipping or anything it doesn't seem...but it does seem to be eating power somehow...it will sort of bog bog bog, and then GOOOOOO. Strange. Also..and VERY evident whistling when accelerating when the engine is above 2000 RPM...can't find any obvious vacuum leaks or anything..rather odd.

Seafoaming this morning was good, however, I got VERY little white smoke. Oddest seafoaming I've ever experienced. Might try again in a few thousand miles...but I guess I'm sort of satisfied with it for now.

Tomorrow morning involves an oil change, fuel filter, air filter, and a quick spray down of the throttle body more than likely.

Now have over 100 miles on it..and its slowly loosening up. Good stuff.

OH YEAH....AND...that *dang* tat on the hood...that someone tried taking off....also took the clearcoat with it. So...that's got to be sanded down and repainted/recleared. Going to go around and get some quotes on getting the hood, grille and front bumper repainted to take care of the bumper corners, the fading on the grille, rock chips on the hood and of course, the hood tat.

[olblueeyesbonne]

How many miles are on that?
I bought my old Firemist Gold 1998 SSE with chrome t-stars (needing tires, oil change and endlinks) for $3300 out the door...... 5 years ago. It had 15x,xxx miles but was in MUCH better shape than that.
I hate to knock you, but that car had better be EXTREMELY low miles for that price. I wouldn't have let them talk me into buying it for that price without fixing the oil leak, front bumper, the wheel squeak and a couple of the other little issues. Good luck finding interior parts as you have the very hard to find Camel interior.

[wjcollier07]

It has 75,500 miles as of this evening, absolutely no rust, is in relatively excellent mechanical condition, and the seats are all in very good condition.

Florida's just hard on cars...you're not knocking me...but I don't care about the price I paid...since I know these aren't exactly growing on trees here like they are up in Wisconsin and Minnesota. In the 100 miles I've driven it..I've yet to see ONE other Bonneville of the same generation. Rather rare in the area.

With the opportunity to bring it back to excellent condition at its mileage...I'm not that disappointed at all with my purchase, especially with the brand new set of BF Goodrich tires it's got on it.

Also....random add on to the whole thing... my air mix is not really working too correctly...not sure what's up with that, but pretty much no matter where I put it, it blows at the windshield. Also...the heat refuses to work unless I put it over 80 degrees, but won't really get warm unless you put it on 85 or 90..it blows ICE COLD until then, even when its 60 degrees out, like it was this evening. Makes me want manual climate control back.

[olblueeyesbonne]

No, not knocking you.... more-so the dealer/state end of the deal.
I forgot to say that Firemist gold is my favorite color of the 92-99's. Mine didn't have moonroof either.
I've seen very few Firemist Gold SSE/SSEi's -probably around 15-20. Only one has had AL7's that I can recall and it was a Firemist Gold with graphite interior.
75,500 miles definitely makes the price more stomachable.
I'm still kicking myself for not picking up the FMG 98 SSEi w/5x,xxx miles that was on ebay last year for $4500 IIRC. It was in FL, and had the same wheels you have. That'd have been my dream color/model car of all Bonneville's except it lacked chrome t-stars, which seemed to lack on the few I've seen.

[sandrock]

Also....random add on to the whole thing... my air mix is not really working too correctly...not sure what's up with that, but pretty much no matter where I put it, it blows at the windshield. Also...the heat refuses to work unless I put it over 80 degrees, but won't really get warm unless you put it on 85 or 90..it blows ICE COLD until then, even when its 60 degrees out, like it was this evening. Makes me want manual climate control back.

First issue is due to no vaccumm (sp) going to the unit. Couple places to check are at the intake plenum, the vac box in the lower passenger fender well, the junction near the firewall connector, and all the lines in between.