Wes wrote:I would go with the poly. regardless of having to grease them.

but you have to factor the bolt spacing, not just the diameter of the bar.

Well that's not really an issue, I can make it work, worst comes to worst its not that hard of a bracket to make my own of

Yeah that poly one actually looks like it will work, they do have that 30 mm listing and the shape is right. Price will probably be comparable, I think the OEM's were ~$7 each. I guess I hadn't really thought about going w/ poly for any reason other than I couldn't find replacements, it was ...

If I never have to deal with the front mount in a 97-99 PAU, it'll be too soon. They're a royal PITFA.

QFT!! Biggest bitch of the entire job pulling the motor, god it's such a stupid design. I wanna try and convert over to the 2k plus style motor mounts at some point. I dread replacing a ...

Here's a couple of the under hood pictures

http://i1002.photobucket.com/albums/af149/98Park/Tinting%20my%20lights/DSC00889.jpg
http://i1002.photobucket.com/albums/af149/98Park/Tinting%20my%20lights/DSC00888.jpg
http://i1002.photobucket.com/albums/af149/98Park/Tinting%20my%20lights/DSC00890.jpg ...

Simply measure the length of your bolt and spacer with the wheel all the way to one side and select the Energy Suspension kit the closest. You'll have to cut the spacer slightly to match on a 2k style, which your 98 seems to be?

2k Bonnevilles trim the spacer slightly. You don't want to re-use the ...

the energy ones usually wont be listed for any fwd version of our cars (in energy's catalog anyway). you can measure the spacer on your car, or you just have the parts person pull a stock replacment to measure, and thats how you determine your needed energy kit.

http://www.energysuspension.com ...

A friend on 3800pro was able to help me track some down with gmpartsdirect, they were kind of oddball to find but don't look to horrible priced on there, about $7 a piece an they're the factory rubber w/ that nyliner stuff or whatever it is they call it injected in. I don't have any good underhood ...

Bump

Yeah they're even illegal if you're parked if it's on a street, basically same laws as for strobes in headlights

willwren wrote:Isn't your 98 PAU the same as the 92-99 cars, and not the 2k and newer?

On the forum help it says the 97+ PAU is listed w/ the 2k+ bonnevilles. I haven't had too much experience w/ the pre 2k's but chassis wise my friends 2k ssei seems pretty similar so i would assume that's right.

ChilinMichael wrote:Have you tried Rock Auto?

Yeah the only thing I can find that's even close are link ends and control arm bushings on there

So the bushings for my sway bar are junk (where it bolts to the cradle) and basically what i'm getting from the parts stores is "Dealer Part" anybody have any ideas, or even know of aftermarket poly's that would work? FE2 gran touring suspension, 30 mm swaybar.
Thanks!

Unless you go with the higher end Borla's or something any aftermarket muffler, flowmaster, magnaflow, whatever, WILL break up and sound weird at higher rpms, it's not a v8 and won't sound like one. It's the cold hard truth, so be very careful about what you do to your exhaust, if you're gonna do it ...

zuper8 wrote:

98Park wrote:they just make me super carsick for some reason

it's the fugliness.

Lol quite possible, the front end is pretty cool but they tail lights are kind of awkward. I think it's just the low cramped feeling more than anything, it feels too much like riding in a coffin.

speaking of reading the bottle..... it says in big letters "OXYGEN SENSOR AND CATALYTIC CONVERTER SAFE"

with that in mind, has anyone proven that it is actually necessary to remove the o2? i want to do this to my car soon.

I don't think concern is with the Seafoam itself, it's the possibility of ...

Buick FTW! No offense to the GP guys but I honestly can not stand riding in the 97-03's they just make me super carsick for some reason, but no problem at all with the regal, funny as i can't imagine they're being that much difference structurally.

It showed up as a 125 Amp for the 9C1 but they were $200, for another $10 you can get a 160 that's probably better quality than a parts store reman

I'm thinking maybe sell an optima to help pay for an alternator? So do these alternators come with an overdriven pulley on them or did you drop the pulley size yourself?

Awesome, thanks!

I had them both already from a different setup, did the big 3, i also did to the fuse center because that's where the alt runs to.
Thanks for the alt link! Looks very promising, bolt right in or does anything need to be tweaked?