My guess is not, I don't want the hassle even if he did. He lives a block from me, its in his best interest to fix me up. But whomever has some nice lights and a good cover will benefit

I got grazed by an rv while at work , needing a set of taillights and a silver rear bumper cover.

Ill have to check, May have made a typo

Im with 1FatCat, If its a lock up converter, and they are going to warrant that other factory unit works correctly. Let it flash in town, those extra revs will help that cam get where it wants :twisted: with less of that annoying lag, and will lock up when you back off the throttle. Sounds like ...

I was in NAPA and did some cross referencing on the 880 lamps. Picked up a pair of 889 lamps, they're 35 watt, instead of the normal 27 watt. Nice and Bright after 2 months. They were cheap and seem to be holding up just fine. No funky colors or attention grabbers for those of you where the law is ...

Thanks

any benefit from making the UIM breathe better? I have to tear it all apart for the manifold gaskets, and would like to do all this freebie stuff while its tore down. Thinking about the rockers too.

thats why i brought this up. if the maf were moved into the intake pipe, and the throttle body were made symetrical. would the effort put into making the throttle body a clean funnel shape, porting it a quarter inch, aquiring some larger junkyard throttle plates and putting the die grinder time into ...

maybe somebody in the daily industry can back me up or correct me on this, but if you buy new amp(s) you'll need to pay attention to the voltage input 2-3-5. i went with a friend to buy a h/u and asked for some 5v preouts. was informed the new amps are coming out accepting low voltage inputs. just a ...

what would/could be done to calibrate that to either a new position and/or a jbwelded throttle body?

the section inbetween the fenderwell and the little turn right before the throttle body. im just curious if any gains made by having a more symetrical throttle body would be worth the effort.

Has anybody done any experimenting with moving the maf into the straight portion of the intake, and jb welding the throttle body nice and smooth? if not, any ideas on why or why not.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/accessories/accProductDetails.jsp?counter=16&categoryDisplayName=&fromString=&itemIdentifier=835246_0_0_&productId=835246&sortType=&parentId=1-10&filterByKeyWord=&categoryNValue=&navValue=100721&fromWhere=&itemId=721-10&displayName=15+in.+red+Flexi-Lite+LED ...

a benefit to E85 in high performance is the volume of fuel used, it substantially cools the parts that are involved, reducing the change for any hot spots to predetonate.

i failed to mention i have an 03.. Will those interchange with my year?

Im installing a rear sway bar, and upgrading the front. Compliments of Haro's diligent salvage operation. Any suggestions on bushings? I found the harder gm bushings, but was curious if anybody makes a good urethane set. Or if the factory ones are good enough until i update the shocks...

Crazy high octane isn't good either. Lower octane = more potential energy. You will make the most HP on the lowest octane you can run without predetoniation.

That being said, I run BP 93 because it's the same as 91/92 around here, and I have a 93 Octane tune in my ECU.

with "that being said" an ...

Its like cam 2 or sunoco turbo blue, you can get the 120 octane BUT its got lead, you have to pull the injector baskets so it doesnt clog them up. And alcohol is cheaper, after you install a delivery method

if you guys have a marina of some sort close by... they usually have a non ethanol of some octane rating or another, usually higher than midgrade.

its like 103 unleaded, good for lots of compression and timing, IIRC its the highest octane rating w/o adding lead