Paul, one more possibility. For almost a year now there has been a problem with something in the gas plugging service station fuel filters. I'm wondering if some of that crap has gotten past the gas station filters and has partially plugged the sock on the end of the fuel pump. Fuel filter was ...

YA WOW JOHN there are pine needles everywhere. I can't tell what colour the interior is.

You must be a city boy,Paul. There isn't a pine tree anywhere near here. Those are fir and hemlock needles. Let anything sit in my driveway for more than an hour and it will be covered with them. Look on the ...

Now where is that gizmo for adjusting the steering wheel?
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p129/JohnH_07/Bonneville/iphonepics190_zps98190353.jpg

Paul's happy face
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p129/JohnH_07/Bonneville/iphonepics191_zps79c78ed8.jpg

My baby heading off to a new home ...

Well it turns out that if the gas tank is over 3/4 full, I have no symptoms at all. Full RPM, no hesitation, all is good.

So, I am going to be stopping for gas more often. Will see what happens down the road.

Jrs3800 wrote:41 to 47 Psi ............

That's for the series 2 isn't it? The info I got says 30 to 35 psi for the series 1

Backhoe wrote:PM sent.

Good stuff, it might be a big help to get a scan with a better scanner. Who knows what the Actron is missing?
I e-mailed your friend, so now it's just a matter of finding a time that is convenient for each of us.

Backhoe wrote:Would a scan assist diagnosis here? I can connect you with a guy in Nanaimo with DHP if it will help.

I have the actron scanner, but would welcome a scan with a better machine.

RJolly87 wrote:

mylittleblackbird wrote:Another thing that was mentioned in another thread, something I often forget about. Perhaps your cat is plugged.

He did advise that the cat is not a factor.

Yes, the cat is not a factor.

And the fuel pressure when it starts sputtering out is still within spec?

Don't know about that. The hose on the gauge is too short to view it when driving unless I want to take the hood off (which I don't).

As soon as I get a chance I am going to raise the rear of the car and beat the crap out ...

Are your BCS/BCA working? Are you dumping boost at 3k rpm?

It hold boost the whole time it's acting up.

The pressure should not bleed off within a few seconds.

I totally agree, however this is just a recent thing. 3 days ago when I put the pressure gauge on I had to bleed some pressure off first (first thing in the morning before starting the car). This may be a related problem, and not helping any ...

So when you say it drops to 10 after the pump shuts off, is that drop happening quickly or not?

Within a few seconds.

it bleeds off immediately after key off?

No, it will hold some pressure for awhile, not sure how long.





Also, could you give us a summary of your fuel pressure testing procedure? Perhaps your fuel pump is not able to keep up with the fuel demands?

1 - hook up the gauge.
2 - turn on key and ...

OK, I drove it with the MAF disconnected, no difference in symptoms.

I did notice today that there was no residual pressure in the fuel rail and the car takes a little longer cranking to start lately. I was going to take the pressure regulator off but it seems to be part of the fuel rail, is that ...

One MAF was replaced (we didn't think of cleaning it, '94 SHO), the second was cleaned, and it fixed right up ('97 Crown Vic).

I did spray the crap out of it after the problem first showed up, with no improvement. I will try unplugging it and taking it out for a drive. We'll see what happens.

I ...

I haven't tried driving without the MAF connected, but did disconnect it while idling and it ran like *shoot*.
I can say for sure that the cat is no factor in this issue ;)

I would have to get a longer hose on my pressure gauge before I could drive with it attached and actually see it.

Didn't ...

For quite awhile now the car ('94 SSEi) has been crapping out at around 3000 rpm. Just hits a wall or surges depending on the day. This hasn't bothered me too much cause I mostly drive it back and forth to work however I am now trying to sell it.

A few days ago I took it for a longer drive, after ...

Just happened to find an Olds LS that had an actuator that fit just nicely. Trunk opens and closes perfectly once again.

OK, it seems that the latch is opened with a cable if using the key. I managed to crawl in the trunk from the back seat and remove the trunk lid liner to use a screw driver to open the latch.

It seems the solenoid isn't working properly and won't let the latch close, that was my original problem ...

The electrics are not working, that was the original problem. Is there any way to open the latch from inside? Assuming I can get in there will all the junk that's piled in there.

Will the lock not operate with the key if the electric activated box is removed?