A/C not cooling down. hot air.

[r3dletterday]

Ok, so I am a victim of the warm air from a/c.

At first I thought it was the ext. temp sensor as the car had been purchased used and never had one installed. So I installed a new one which works fine and accurate. And there is no flashing from the temp.

Then, upon reading into other similar posts, I thought it would be the actuator. (another responder had me check vac's but since the air is pushing and shifting through all vents as i rotate through the temperatures we ruled that one out). I checked today and the silver post on the actuator is infact moving with shifting between heater and a/c.

I guess my question is since that post IS in fact moving. that does mean it is engaging correct?

and if so, then would the next step be recharing? I looked into recharging the a/c myself. it seems pretty easy if you have the right pressure, the right recharger, and the right pressure gauge. But is it that easy? should I attempt it myself?

thanks in advance

[r3dletterday]

Not too sure if it popped up or not, but I'm a 94 SSE Bonneville

[Bugsi]

In the upper right corner of the webpage, click the "User Control Panel" link, then click the "Profile" link on the left, then click "Edit Signature" on the left and add your trim / model information there, so it will show up on every post.

If the only thing wrong with your AC is that you're a little low on refrigerant, you can add a charge of refrigerant, but you need to use the correct refrigerant. Your car might use the older R-12 rather than the current R-134a, and I don't think you can still buy R-12.

However. . .

In an automotive AC system, if you've lost some of your refrigerant, bringing your pressure down below the cutoff switch point, you really ought to investigate *WHY* you lost some refrigerant. Generally you get a leak at either O-ring seals or from the compressor itself. If you can get the proper refrigerant and add enough to get your system working, then you can also add UltraViolet leak-detector dye. When your system stops working again in a day, a week, or a month, you can poke around with a black light to see where your leak is.

If you need to replace an O-ring seal or the compressor, you need to have your system vacuum-recovered by a shop with an appropriate recovery machine. Once your seals are all replaced and/or your new compressor is installed, you can have a shop vacuum-pump the system and recharge it with fresh refrigerant. If you have your own vacuum pump, you can do this yourself.

If you do wind up doing that, write back for detailed directions, because you need to pay attention to details and the order you connect hoses to avoid putting any air into your system.

If your system is R-12 based, and if you have a problem such as a bad compressor, you might seriously consider getting your AC system converted to R-134a if you have R-12. This generally requires a new compressor, and some additional parts, and can be moderately expensive, but in the long run it will give you a system that can be serviced like any newer car, and save you the ever-increasing cost of R-12.

Fair warning: Automotive AC systems are fairly easy to screw up for the layman who isn't familiar with air conditioning systems and charging procedures. I've witnessed all number of screw-ups from people who just didn't know any better, including:
Overcharging the system and causing compressor damage.
Using poor connection methodology, introducing air and moisture into the system leading to eventual compressor failure.
People who didn't even bother to use a vacuum pump to evacuate a system after replacing a compressor, and just added Freon to the air in the system. -Leads to compressor failure.
People who blasted themselves with freon causing various degree frost-burns.
People who decided they knew better than me after I charged their system for them, who went back and measured the low-side pressure with a cheap guage WHILE THE CAR WAS OFF, and subsequently VENTED their refrigerant, claiming I had overcharged their system, until the equalized resting pressure on the low side measured what a book says the low side should be (when the system is ON) -thus discharging their system and causing it to fail again.
People who buy the cans of lubricating oil and add that instead of R-12 to their system, since they can buy lubricating oil, but can't buy R-12.

If you think you might fit any of those descriptions, just do yourself a favor and pay a qualified shop to recharge and test your AC system, and perform any needed repairs or system conversion.

-Mark

[coopsse]

Take the glove box liner out and look through the hole on the framework to see if the temp door is opening and closing while running the temperature up and down. It will default to full hot if out. I prop mine open with a screwdriver for cold air. The air will still come out of the right vents depending on the temp setting.

I have recharged my own AC with the kits from Autozone and it worked well...Follow the instructions. Once you find out what refrigerant you have...(134 or 12) My 95 Has R134

[r3dletterday]

Take the glove box liner out and look through the hole on the framework to see if the temp door is opening and closing while running the temperature up and down. It will default to full hot if out. I prop mine open with a screwdriver for cold air. The air will still come out of the right vents depending on the temp setting.

I have recharged my own AC with the kits from Autozone and it worked well...Follow the instructions. Once you find out what refrigerant you have...(134 or 12) My 95 Has R134

Its opening I'm sure of that.

MY owners manual states that my car uses 134, I lucked out there. Autozone was the dealer I was planning on picking up the refill from as well. Does anyone know the correct pressure? Its very dry here, avg. temp of about 85 - 90.