How to replace rear transmission mounting?

[rustyroger]

My 1998 Park Avenue needs a new rear transmission mount. Looks like I need to remove other stuff to get to it, can anyone walk me through what's involved please? It's a standard (not supercharged) model. I think I have all the basic tools to unbolt it, do I need any special tools for this job?

Roger.

[harofreak00]

The rear mount is not nearly as easy as the front mount. The factory service manual states to remove the subframe, but you can do it by dropping the rear of the subframe enough to clear the mount bolts. Unless necessary, I'd recommend having this one done on a lift. An experienced mechanic could replace in 30 minutes, you'd struggle for hours with jack stands and on your back.

[rustyroger]

Thanks for the prompt reply. I have until Good Friday to do the job. It will be on my garage floor, I can raise the car 4 feet off the floor to do the job, not ideal but I'm very time rich since I retired, and I can tackle the job as and when I feel like it. I have an engine hoist and support beam to support the engine and as far as I can tell all the hand tools for the job. I really need to get the old one off to make sure I get the correct mounting as I understand they varied a bit over the production run and I can't just go to an auto parts store to buy one so it will have to come from the USA.

Roger.

[harofreak00]

If you have the engine hoist and support beam, you should be good.

I don't know how big of a factor rust is in England. The subframe to body bolts will be the biggest challenge. If those come free easily without snapping or spinning the encased nuts, you're in good shape.

[rustyroger]

Well its off. It's toast, the rubber has split everywhere. To get it off I disconnected the exhaust at the cat, loosened the rear subframe bolts (without any dramas I'm pleased to say), supported the engine using the bracket that holds the plastic cover at the rear, disconnected the steering rack and sway bar retaining clips, snapped off (not deliberately) the drop link bolts, then lowered the subframe at the rear. I removed the subframe (clip?) bolts then screwed them back in a few turns. This gave enough clearance to get the mounting brackets out.
I've ordered a new mount, sway bar bushes and drop links from rockauto, for a total cost of $67.72 delivered to my door. Over half this price is shipping costs, but the whole package cost about the same as a similar mount for my regular family car Peugeot would over the counter here.
It took me a couple of hours, a lot of which was loosening tight subframe mounting bolts. They will be going back with plenty of copper grease in case I need to loosen them again.
I'll update this when the new parts show up.

Roger.

[rustyroger]

Update. I ordered the parts April 1st around 9 am (local time), the drop links and bushes arrived on April 2nd, and the mounting bush the following day. I can't fault FedEx for service!
It took a bit of wriggling on my garage floor to put it back together, but was straightforward enough, the engine beam really helped for that.
I learned I should have left the subframe hanging when I changed the sway bar bushes as the steering rack track rods were in the way, but I just disconnected them from the hubs instead, the drop links were easy though. I guess I spent about four hours doing the job, but I didn't rush, and I got to play music I like but my wife doesn't care for while I was there.

Roger.