haro1225 wrote:No I mean the duralast one. I went through SIX in a four month period on one side. I got a timken and never did it again.
Holy smokes, haro!
6 hubs in 4 months is at least 4 more than I would have been able to stand.
Just for information's sake, Timken which
used to be "Made in USA" now sells at least some "Made in Korea" hubs.
I had purchased 4 Timken hubs for my 93 SLE.
I received 3 that were made in the US and the other was made in Korea. (A call to Timken verified that both types were indeed genuine Timken products.)
The US made ones were look-alikes for OEM hubs.
The Timken Korea-made front hub had studs that were not the same diameter in the knurl/splined section as the OEMs.
Consequence?
Damage or break one and finding a replacement may be much more difficult than you imagine.
Your original studs
will not fit.
As careful as you are when replacing tires, your local inspection station or tire shop may not be
Viper79, do you mean that although properly torqued, the bolts on the recently replaced hub won't break loose or is this on the old hub?
You can spray the bolts from the back with some PBBlaster or Kroil , let it sit for hours (or a day) and see if that does the trick.
Using a breaker bar, slip a length of steel pipe over it, then step on it, carefully bounce on it if need be.
If you're using a propane torch to heat the bolts, it's unlikely they'll get hot enough.
MAPP gas or another gas that burns hotter than propane is needed.
Worse comes to worst, you'll have to pay a mechanic to wrest with it----or you can replace the entire "knuckle", since the bolts are unlikely to be stuck inside the hub.
As for the noise....
Your noise could be the same hub or another or a tire.
To isolate the hub as the problem, chock the front wheels and lift the rear wheels, parking brake off. (I shouldn't need to say that the vehicle is not supported by a jack alone.)
You or a helper should spin each wheel as quickly as possible and feel the fender for vibration while listening for noise and watching the wheel for abnormal movement.
Very often a bad bearing in a hub produces enough vibration to actually feel it in the nearest fender.
You
may also be able to rock the wheel in and out--but that can also be a suspension part gone bad.
If this fails to isolate the offending wheel, then have someone else drive the car while you ride in the back seat.
This should make it
much clearer as to whether it's the driver's or passenger's side or front/back.
If your tire is worn abnormally or defective, it could cause noise, while some tires are just plain noisy (like the Fuzion tires that my 93 came to me with).
An out of round tire or a tire that has developed a slipped belt, will look like it is bobbing up and down a bit, rather than spinning normally and will cause vibration and sometimes noise.
Tires with certain kinds of abnormal tread wear can be noisy, too.
If you've isolated it to one wheel and have different brand tires on the front, temporarily move the front tire to the back and see if that moves the noise.
