Power wire routing question

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Ieatpeople
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Power wire routing question

Post by Ieatpeople »

I know there are probably many topics already about wiring amplifiers for subwoofers, that is not the question here.

Since i have an 04 GXP, the battery is already under the rear seat. i used a line level converter hooked to the rear speaker wires to provide signal to the subwoofers. I installed an Odyssey PC1750 AGM battery in the factory location with upgraded battery terminals and used 4g wire to connect my Rockford Fosgate R1000-1D subwoofer amp. The subs are Sundown Audio SA-10s (dual 10" in a 2.5cf pre-fab ported box tuned to 34hz, i dont have time to build a real box right now)

the only current issue i have (pun intended), is that the voltage will drop and the lights will dim when the music is at a pleasurable volume. I am interested in upgrading the factory charging wire from the alternator to the battery. Since i am planning to switch to a more powerful sub amp in the future, i was going to use 0g wire to do this.

where is the best place to route the wire through the firewall? i saw the thread where it mentions drilling the firewall above the passenger footwell, but all it said was "if your car is '00 or newer, the battery is in the back already, and you wont need to do this." it did not specify if this drilling location applied to the newer cars.





No need to worry about some random idiot burning his car down. i have been installing stereos for 15 years and the worst thing that has happened is a blown radio fuse.
2004 Bonneville GXP "Liquid Silver"
69k miles, Magnaflows, RF1000-1D, RE SE-X15D2
Powerstop Drilled/Slotted front rotors w/ Z23 pads
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harofreak00
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Re: Power wire routing question

Post by harofreak00 »

The exact same place where the original battery cable is routed. The hole is in the passenger side of the firewall, just above the frame-rail. It has a large grommet and you'll be able to adapt to the larger cable no problem.
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Ieatpeople
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Re: Power wire routing question

Post by Ieatpeople »

awesome, thanks for the info.

im also going to upgrade all the grounds to 0g at the same time, cant make power without a good ground, lol
2004 Bonneville GXP "Liquid Silver"
69k miles, Magnaflows, RF1000-1D, RE SE-X15D2
Powerstop Drilled/Slotted front rotors w/ Z23 pads
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harofreak00
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Re: Power wire routing question

Post by harofreak00 »

The main battery ground is only 1ft long.
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2004 Bonneville GXP | 60k | White Gold Tricoat | custom built supercharged 3800 hot rod | garage queen
1997 Corvette | 57k | Silver Metallic | Z06 wheels | Date-night Hauler/Parts runner
2014 Town & Country Limited | Cashmere Pearl | 115k | Family Hauler
2002 Ram 1500 Quad Cab Sport | Black| 280k | Official Bonneville Hauler
Ieatpeople
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Re: Power wire routing question

Post by Ieatpeople »

i did this almost 2 weeks ago, just havent had time to post the picture:


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2004 Bonneville GXP "Liquid Silver"
69k miles, Magnaflows, RF1000-1D, RE SE-X15D2
Powerstop Drilled/Slotted front rotors w/ Z23 pads
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Re: Power wire routing question

Post by wast3dd3ath »

I don't mean to thread jack. But I am also upgrading my alternator and wiring. I was wondering if there was a in line fuse link between the alternator and junction.
redzmonte
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Re: Power wire routing question

Post by redzmonte »

A capacitor will help with the lights flickering.. You might consider a 2nd battery if you have the same issue. Also there is a thing form ZZP to upgrade the Alternator to power block wire and also another thing that increases the output of the alternator. might help. now looking i dont see a larger alt cable anymore just the alt booster.
http://shop.zzperformance.com/store/p/2 ... oster.aspx


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Re: Power wire routing question

Post by bobgto65 »

I would say an alternator with higher output is needed. In addition for safety issues your battery must be vented as it in the passenger compartment. The originals had vents on the sides with hoses that plugged in and ran under the floor pan to vent.
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