Advice about buying used 2002 SLE

[ttc_smokee]

Hey guys,

So after about 7 years of good service I'm thinking about trading in my Midnight Blue 2002 SE+ with about 170000 -- it was 126000 when I bought it. I call it a SE+ because it has options like the sunroof, heated leather seats, automatic climate control, etc. I have some other goods installed like Kenwood Double-din, polk audio components and 6x9s - amped, JL Audio sub (might keep this), and viper remote start/alarm.

I havent had too many issues throughout it's life. I had it overheat once due to failed coolant pipes, so we replaced gaskets and the pipes. I've done other replacements, like a few sensors: maf, oil pressure, etc., rear shocks, brakes, radiator fan, tie rods, sway bar links... nothing to major.



I came across a local dealership with a 2002 Silver Metallic SLE with 106000 miles on it. Really clean, minor dings on the back mostly. I test drove it, and it drove really well, better than my car in fact. I'm thinking about making the plunge. But I would like some advice.

1) What do you all think a fair-trade in value for my 2002 SE @ 170000 and the premium aftermarket stereo setup and viper remote/alarm?
2) They are asking $5000 for the car, I think thats a bit high what do you all think?

I'm going back up there tomorrow (1/22/15) with my car (broken blower motor -- they know about it), to see what they say about the trade value. Before you say it.. I've read KBB values for both cars.. still want opinions.

[nos4blood70]

Woot! Galaxy silver with bent 5s is the best!

Your aftermarket system and remote start will not add any value to your SE, sadly. If you could, I would remove them and save them for the SLE. Honestly, you're probably not looking at much more than 2,000 for trade in.

5,000 is a little high. 4,000ish is closer to fair from a dealer. Also make sure to check over the motor for common stuff, like LIM gaskets, the UIM, and coolant elbows.

If you get a chance to drive it again, make sure you get it good and warmed up to see if the trans is behaving well.

[ttc_smokee]

Ok thank you. Good advice.

Yeah I did a little supplemental reading this morning, and you're right the general consensus is that aftermarket electronics do not add much extra value to a trade in.

Regarding the LIM and UIMs, should I poke around with a flashlight just to make sure there's no leaks present. I dont know what to look for regarding the Coolant elbows... (though I had them fail on my original car too), one thing I noticed is that they're still running Dexcool (red coolant) in the system. That's bad right?

Also, what can you recommend I do to make sure the tranny is fine? When I did the initial test drive, we got up to temp maybe about 180-195... or not because the cooling fans never came on.

[SSEiMan01]

Not sure how much I'd recommend this, but I once test drove a SC Monte Carlo SS, and it drove great, but I decided to whale on it off the line, lucky I did because after that little eek of the tires the Stabiliwhack/ABS/Brake lights came on, probably a bad sensor in the wheel bearing, but it was enough to make me walk away from it because they wanted too much anyway.

[nos4blood70]

Nothing wrong with Dex as long as it hasn't been mixed with a different type of coolant.

If the LIMs have been replaced before, you should see silver between the LIM and the head. The UIM should have a date stamped on it somewhere on top once you remove the engine cover. The coolant elbows are by the tensioner, they might be metal already if they've been replaced. If still plastic, just make sure they're not weeping coolant. Overall, just look around the motor and make sure it's all dry. Check the oil to make sure it's free of milk shake. See if the trans fluid is nice and red, and doesn't smell burnt.

Stock the fans don't come on till 210, but I'd suggest taking a half hour long test drive and giving the car a nice broad RPM check. See how it shifts up and down, etc. It shouldn't be shuddering or shifting hard. However, a bad front trans mount could make it shift a little goofy.

If anything, just have the 2000-2005 common problems thread open on your phone and just look around.

[ttc_smokee]

Awesome advice. I most definitely will check these items out today when I go back to look at the vehicle, thank you.

[kpopbonn]

I insure new and used car dealerships and have since 1990. Lets just say I know the game. I will tell you, as a general rule, they have that car priced at least $2000 higher than what they have in it. Unless of course its been on their lot more than 90 days or they've previously marked it down for other reasons. They want to sell the car, you want to buy the car, you have to reach a price where you both are happy. Its really a matter of you picking a number and sticking with it and communicating with the dealership/salesman. Don't piss anybody off and stick to the number you are comfortable with. Or of course, you could cave at their first offer, do the deal and buy the car you really want at their price.
My strategy when buying a used car has always been, its just a used car, there are literally thousands of cars out there if this one doesn't work there will always be another. and maybe that's the one I will really want and am willing to overpay for.