92-99 mount fixes?

[radomirthegreat]

Hello again! I've been away from the forums for a long time, so I'm not up to date on new finds for how to hold the trans and engine in place. Have you found some new molds, different parts, or something else? I replaced all 4 mounts a couple years ago, and already they're squishy and letting the engine flop around.

For the front trans mount, some race shop friends cut off the hydraulic strut and replaced it with a bolt with a polyurethane bushing on the bottom. This worked, but the chunk of rubber seems to have been worn out, and the other mounts are worn out too.

I know there's an adjustable polyurethane dogbone mount made of the Fiero guys, so I can try that, but I think if I don't change all four, ultimately the 2-3 stiff mounts will wear out the remaining rubber stuff yet again.

[crash93ssei]

What happened to that mount we had welded up a few years ago at the Michigan meet? Did it end up being too harsh? Maybe you could try try a variation of that with a thick bolt and some polyurethane end link bushings to hold It together?

[radomirthegreat]

Hey, what's up?

In Michigan, we did a good job welding a metal plate to the side of the mount so that it was just solid. However, that rattled itself loose, and the bolts were caught and tightened again before they could fall out. I'm told that having a totally solid motor mount risks cracking the block. The bushings may help, though. I'll think it through.

What about the other three mounts? I suppose with the urethane dogbone mount, some sort of fixed front trans mount, and a urethane insert in the side cylinder thing, I just have to think up a way of holding the transmission up from the back on the driver's side. Any mount progress on that on other cars?

I'd like to ignore that last mount, but with it failing, my headers rub the subframe.

[95naSTA]

There's nothing I'm aware of for the driver's rear. But you can:

Use this for the passenger rear dogbone: http://www.rodneydickman.com/adjustabledogbone.html

Fill the passenger T/A mount with urethane, or cut out all the rubber and fill with urethane, or I think someone jammed hockey pucks in there but couldn't get them to stop from sliding out.

And for the front, use a 92-93 4t60-e mount, drill a hole, then put a bolt through it with nylon locking nut.

[MattStrike]

Supplement the mounts with the LG3 front lower engine mount? You'd need a bracket from any H-body that didn't have the T/A mount (86-91 IIRC). This won't fit a series 2 block without modification, also won't work with the R-134a compressor without modification.

[radomirthegreat]

Cool, thanks for the dogbone link! I got the idea from you, and now I don't have to search for the part. I was talking with my race shop friends (homies, if you will), and they are strictly against a polyurethane filled torque axis mount. I'm up for it, though, and I have a spare I had intended to mark for where the bolt passes through. I'll ask them, but why do you figure they have reservations?

I had been looking for the LG3 front mount, but I didn't know what it was - just that it's used on some H-bodies. Ok, how do I have to modify it? Just cut away at some of the bracket?

And lastly, are we cool with a stock rear trans mount? I'd like to look into casting a polyurethane block for it. It would be pretty awesome, I think.

[MattStrike]

For use with a series 2 and stock A/C compressor you have to cut it up to fit between the A/C bracket and the block. I reinforced mine after cutting away. And of course I can't find any pictures of it now.

[radomirthegreat]

Yes, that's how it usually goes with pictures. I'll see if I can set up mine similarly, and then I'll post pictures.