Puck that motor mount or just chain it down?

[STAGE III]

Okay, not a big hockey area down here although there is a team of some sort.Point being I wouldn't even know where to get pucks and money is SUPER tight to the point counting change out of the ash tray (the ONLY "Change I can believe in"!!!).

I have 5 acres and a 2500 sq ft 1890 barn though crammed full of everything from World War one radio man gear,car parts of about every make to old farm impliments.Amongst all that is plenty of different types of chain,cable, giant washers,insulators etc etc.

I use to sell quality control testing equipment and still some new high tensile strength webbed material with buckled ends that I fabricated to go over the existing bad front mount.One buckle under the upper studs nut with larger washer and opposite end mounted onto a newly drilled and tapped part of the frame rail. Sorry to say that isn't getting it.As tight as it seems still getting same motor raise and clump as it falls back down when gas is released.Never had one of these cars so never had a mount off either so obviously I am missing something on the way it is constructed because I don't know how it is still lifting being strapped down to the frame

Someone is probably shaking their head now so please enlighten me on whether chaining the engine down with the old mount will produce the same failure.If I have to remove that mount how darn high do you have to lift the engine to get the old one off? I was afraid I was going to put a line or something in a bind and break something when I was going to actually try and install a new factory mount in it(NAPA gave me wrong part though).

Really want to feel the potential of this engine but not with the engine clumping around

How much are pucks and cheapest source also?

[01bonneSC]

Amazon.com is probably the cheapest or you can try eBay. I wouldn't chain the engine down with the old on in place are there won't be any support there, the factory mounts are oil filled, so you wouldn't have support holding then engine up since I'm surer the oil is all leaked out or will eventually. Also with the front not being supported properly it will stress the other mounts and possibly cause premature wear.

Sounds like you have some car parts, radios, etc that you can sell for some part of an income so you don't have to scrounge for change.

The mount has a bracket that bolts to the engine/trans, so you just have to hold it all up with a jack to remove the old mount and install whatever you end up using.

A couple people have used boat trailer rollers and I used a chunk of industrial electric motor vibration isolator bar for my mount, so there is a couple other ideas.

[00Beast]

You could cut the bolts out of the old mount and just stick a bolt through. Some have done that with success too. Bolts are cheap, or you might even have one you can scrounge out of the barn, lol.

[01bonneSC]

Someone also used an aftermarket sway bar end link. Not sure of the success on that though.

[STAGE III]

Thanks for all the ideas guys.Man, almost swapped a bunch of stuff for a 1970 Buick GS 455 today (yeh it was RUFF RUFF! ha ha). Think I will sell that stuff and make the Pontiac a force to be reckonded with

yeh, did not know that mount was oil filled.How many bolt hold it to the core support? I see the one at the bottom but thought I could feel a couple at the front facing the bumper too but hard to tell by feel.What evere I do I overkill is fine but want the fastest method because ready to feel this thing hook up instead of clunking around.

Thanks again for the advice gentlemen

[00Beast]

There's 2 studs, one on either side (top & bottom) of the mount, and 3 that go into the trans.

[Grapes]

pucks are 60 cents a peice at canadian tire or any sporting store.

[redbaron05]

Just buy another factory style mount from Auto Zone. The new ones are now made from Urethane Rubber so no more failures. They got smart since they guarantee them for life.