Wheel bearings - do they need replaced NOW? Freaked!

[Ludichris]

Okay, so I go in to get a coolant leak looked at - it ended up being the lower elbow, just a drip for now, I have some time on that. While it was up on the rack, he informs me that both my front wheel bearings are not only shot, but "dangerous". I told him I have a trip tomorrow totaling about 300 miles round trip. He tells me he doesn't know if I'll make it! ?!?!

I don't hear any chatter, whining, whistling, grinding, etc. I do feel a little shaking when braking, but the back brakes need done. I hear NO noise at all. I shook the wheels myself while it was on the rack. Yes, there is a little bit of play, a LITTLE, but just wondering what your opinions are. I can't get this fixed "today", and I HAVE to go on that trip, tomorrow. I know now that wheel bearings are on the list, but how dangerous is it?! He really freaked me out. He said they could last for a long time, or go at any time. Opinions please??!

[93 SSE 4 ME]

Just had mine done. Get lower ball joints too.

Mark

[harofreak00]

I thought you just got an alignment? They would have noticed if there was anything wrong with your wheel bearings.

Sounds like the mechanic is taking you for a ride.

When a wheel bearing is bad, YOU WILL KNOW IT.

[Ludichris]

I thought you just got an alignment? They would have noticed if there was anything wrong with your wheel bearings.

Sounds like the mechanic is taking you for a ride.

When a wheel bearing is bad, YOU WILL KNOW IT.

I did, yes. Furthermore, they didn't have to touch the back because all the adjustment was done in the front. Like I said, there was a LITTLE bit of play in the wheels, but very little. So, I'll know it? What signs would it exhibit if they were bad?

[harofreak00]

An extreme amount of howling noise and vibration.

[Ludichris]

An extreme amount of howling noise and vibration.

Well I definitely don't have any of that, just a little vibration when I brake, but I seriously think that might be the rear rotors. Based on what you're telling me, I'm going to assume that I'm okay for now. I'll put it on the list, but I'm not replacing them ASAP. I feel a little better now, thanks.

[01bonneSC]

He may just be trying to get work out of you.

[crash93ssei]

I have had many bad wheel bearings in the past, they have all howled and gotten louder with more speed. Some I drove on while howling for months, others were replaced within a week or two. A little bit of play could be anything from a ball joint, inner or outer tie rod, or a wheel bearing. Chances are good though that if it was the wheel bearing you would have some howling.

I wouldn't really worry about it for a 300 mile trip, that is only a tank of gas, really not that much distance.

[01bonneSC]

I have had many bad wheel bearings in the past, they have all howled and gotten louder with more speed. Some I drove on while howling for months, others were replaced within a week or two. A little bit of play could be anything from a ball joint, inner or outer tie rod, or a wheel bearing. Chances are good though that if it was the wheel bearing you would have some howling.

I wouldn't really worry about it for a 300 mile trip, that is only a tank of gas, really not that much distance.

As long as it was tested with up and down movement on top and bottom of tire, which is the proper way for wheel bearings, I would rule out the tie rods though.

[Ludichris]

Maybe what he was saying was that they were "about" to go...could that be it? I mean, is there much warning BEFORE you get the audible indications that they're about to go? I trust this guy, I think that might be what he meant. He hasn't done me wrong so far. Maybe he overemphasized the urgency of it so that I wouldn't get stranded on the highway somewhere. Maybe?

[00Beast]

Ok, as a disclaimer, none of us are there and looking at your car, and YMMV.

If there is no noise and very little play, you should be fine.

However, when I worked at a shop, I did see a newer Suburban owned by my friend's parents that supposedly knocked the bearing out so bad in less than 100 miles that the seals busted and the hub and backing plate were separated and the ball bearings were falling out. Now whether that actually happened, or they kept the radio for so loud for so long before that they didn't hear the bearing growling, I don't really know.

You should be fine. I just wanted to make sure you knew that there is a chance, and you should be cautious.

[Ludichris]

Ok, as a disclaimer, none of us are there and looking at your car, and YMMV.

If there is no noise and very little play, you should be fine.

However, when I worked at a shop, I did see a newer Suburban owned by my friend's parents that supposedly knocked the bearing out so bad in less than 100 miles that the seals busted and the hub and backing plate were separated and the ball bearings were falling out. Now whether that actually happened, or they kept the radio for so loud for so long before that they didn't hear the bearing growling, I don't really know.

You should be fine. I just wanted to make sure you knew that there is a chance, and you should be cautious.

I get it, and I appreciate that. It's on the short list. I don't listen to my radio loud before I know a car, so if anything happens, I'll hear it. AFTER I know a car...that's a different story! Thanks guys!

[Archon]

The left rear hub on my car had a bit of play in it (enough to make me replace it) and never made a sound. Replacing it also solved the minor vibration issue that I was having around 70 mph.

[robauto]

very little play (a few thousands of an inch) and no noise you are definitely ok

when you spin the wheel by hand you will hear it

when you are driving a bad bearing makes a loud growl, sounds like a snow or bad tire

I don't like any play, so once it has any play, I replace

most cars have 0 play from new to at least 120 k, then they may start loosening up

I use timken from rock auto, great product, great price

[Ludichris]

very little play (a few thousands of an inch) and no noise you are definitely ok

when you spin the wheel by hand you will hear it

when you are driving a bad bearing makes a loud growl, sounds like a snow or bad tire

I don't like any play, so once it has any play, I replace

most cars have 0 play from new to at least 120 k, then they may start loosening up

I use timken from rock auto, great product, great price

Which Timken part number works best on these cars? I notice there are two part numbers, and....and I think I just answered my own question, because only one is designated as "front" - part number 513179 - just confirming this is correct - is there any other hardware or parts I would need to do the wheel bearings?:

[imidazol97]

I didn't look it up now, but I believe the service manual doesn't reference the wobble amount of play. Instead it was straight in and out play along the axis of the shaft and it was 0.005 in.

Are you getting a Service Stability System message occasionally when turning the wheel at low speeds?

[Ludichris]

I didn't look it up now, but I believe the service manual doesn't reference the wobble amount of play. Instead it was straight in and out play along the axis of the shaft and it was 0.005 in.

Are you getting a Service Stability System message occasionally when turning the wheel at low speeds?

No, nothing like that, but I can tell you that there's definitely more than 5 thousandths of an inch of play, that's for sure! I've traveled on the highway 80 miles at a time, then rolled to a stop, using as little brake as possible, and felt the hubs and the lugs....they were cool as can be to the touch.

[dpnewfie]

very little play (a few thousands of an inch) and no noise you are definitely ok

when you spin the wheel by hand you will hear it

when you are driving a bad bearing makes a loud growl, sounds like a snow or bad tire

I don't like any play, so once it has any play, I replace

most cars have 0 play from new to at least 120 k, then they may start loosening up

I use timken from rock auto, great product, great price

Which Timken part number works best on these cars? I notice there are two part numbers, and....and I think I just answered my own question, because only one is designated as "front" - part number 513179 - just confirming this is correct - is there any other hardware or parts I would need to do the wheel bearings?:

Yea, you answered your own question. lol

You have a socket for the axle nut and a torque wrench right? Whatever you do, follow torque specs on these hubs when you re-install. If you over torque them you shorten the bearing life dramatically.