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Yes, poly and many thing exist. As to harder mounts for underneath the W bodies.

It appears the item that doesn't exist that Tom is looking for is the shortened mount height. Many of the W body guys use cradle spacers to lower their cradle the 1/4" or so for clearance.

BillBoost37 wrote:Yes, poly and many thing exist. As to harder mounts for underneath the W bodies.

It appears the item that doesn't exist that Tom is looking for is the shortened mount height. Many of the W body guys use cradle spacers to lower their cradle the 1/4" or so for clearance.

Yep..
Funny thing, ZZP makes or should I say sells a shortened trans poly mount. But nobody makes the TA mount shortened.

This weekend I'll have some time to tear into some projects around the house.
I want to get inside the TA mount and see what the restriction is and why it can't be lower.
Maybe the prooblem plain and simple is not the mount but the tray it sits in and the bracket that it bolts onto, possibly they don't allow clearance.

The other thing is that the GTP just got an alignment and new front tires, so it's kind of not the time to be tearing into stuff that will mess with the alignment.
I want that car to make a pass or two in street trim, then again in slicks.. the weather is now.. finally.. in race conditions in AZ..

An engine mount won't change the alignment.

Not if the relationship between the drivetrain and chassis is changed by lowering the craddle or lowering an engine mount.
He would need a re-alignment.

2000Silverbullet wrote:Not if the relationship between the drivetrain and chassis is changed by lowering the craddle or lowering an engine mount.
He would need a re-alignment.

In other words, when the cradle moves down, so does the pivot point for the control arms. That will change the alignment.

I'm there with you Mike, my point was that in the case of changing the mount there is no alignment change. The knuckle, strut and lower control arm stay in the same place.

This is correct Bill. a motor mount should not have an effect on the alignment.
i have been trying for two years to get my freaking car to drive in a straight line and according to Bob.. finally the sucker is driving in a straight line again. i'm not touching a *dang* thing until the car see the track again.
I replaced nearly everything in the front of the car and it still wouldn't track straight, I was starting to think that I bent my lower control arms but just the same I took the car in for an alignment.. mind you, Sears did the alignment and it still wouldn't track straight but the tires didn't wear at all. but when i stood on the gas I had terrible torque steer.
While I was in the alignment shop they told me that everything looked great, they made a slight adjustment but it was basically in spec. They test drove the car before and after and stated that the car still had torque steer.. then they suggested that I change the TA mount. so I did, $55.00 later the car drove in a straight line... for three weeks while i was tuning my PE mode high rom stuff and i broke the new motor mount and sure enough the car was tracking crooked again. i took that mount back to Autozone and traded it for my new one and it tracked straight again but never good, the more you step on the gas, the worse the torque steer got. Keep in mind I have a Quaife. i tested the quaife, its good.
Appearently i have enough power in the motor to break those hydrolic TA mounts, I need a solid poly TA mount.
My concern is that I might break that TA mount again, the last one only lasted 3 weeks. factory parts are only so strong. Vatozone parts are a total question mark when it comes to strength... but they are lifetime gaurenteed...

Holy crap...
I just went to Autozone and looked up my trans mount that we have been talking about and looky.. poly for $24.95

Now if only they'd make a TA mount for me...

This is my TA mount

I think the Autozone web site might be messed up, maybe the mount I posted above is not for my car.
Crap..
This is my trans mount.

The other one is a bust.

At least they are not $250. each like I have to pay for the 94 Bonne.
Make a solid steel unit for racing purposes Tom, then go back to the stock unit for comfort.

That's a pretty good idea actually...

Tom..got an old mount you can send me? I'll make you one, in return I only ask that you ship the parts in the trunk of your garage ornament to me.

BillBoost37 wrote:Tom..got an old mount you can send me? I'll make you one, in return I only ask that you ship the parts in the trunk of your garage ornament to me.

Deal...

My mount has cured for it's full 7 days. Now time is the only thing holding me back. And a lack of MAF sensor and slight oil leak at the moment.

Anyhow there was another develiopment in the non-standard replacement mount area that should get our attention and has me thinking about making another with the harder urethane.

One success so far and this is supposed to be one or two available durometers harder. The hockey puck mount.
http://www.bonnevillepro.com/forums/vie ... =36&t=6428

With all things being crazy in life I will be trying to get the urethane on my car and since I'm currently mafless, it's a perfect time to start VE tuning.

BillBoost37 wrote: Since I'm currently mafless, it's a perfect time to start VE tuning.

I like your thinking. I think you should tune your timing tables and tweek your 02's in first, then move onto a VE, then go back and do the timing and 02's again, then WOT tune, then put the maf in and get it close. I would follow this up with an engine rebuild with a forged bottom end and some nitrous with Meth injection on a grooved SC shaft for maximum boost.

Sounds like a hijack for the original topic but... I think timing needs to be last.

IMHO you need to make sense of the checklist in order:
1 - Address most basic issues concerning Torque Management/Torque Abuse/Injector disabling in the bin. (prepare)
2 - Do a Speed Density (VE) tune via optimizing the VE table. (VE Tune)
4 - Optimize the fuel trims via the MAF table (MAF tune)
5 - Look at O2 readings at WOT and address fueling issues where needed or use a WB if you have one.
6 - Remove any KR and raise timing for additional throttle response, power and MPG (timing tune)
7 - Address transmission settings used to set up the car to my personal preferences (tranny tune)

Of course these are not easily done and much work is involved like setting up the scanner seems to be the most difficult part of tuning IMHO. for example, you need to adjust the timing tables by making them the same for the VE tune but you will want to retutn them once you have finished that step. etc, etc.

PDXGTP wrote:Sounds like a hijack for the original topic but... I think timing needs to be last.

More hijacking...

If one tunes with a narrow band O2 sensor then the timing should be considered first since the NB is affected by the exhaust gas temps. What I'm thinking of specifically is where people use the 04/05 GTP timing tables, those should be in the bin before a VE tune.

Back on topic...

So far there's positive feedback from the other TA mount project, still waiting for you Bill

Cheers,

This weekend was another busy one. No progress on the oil leak or TA mount install.

Was busy installing a wet Zex kit onto a black supercharged car
No, not mine

Setup a rig to try quantifying the difference in order to prove out the mod via data. Constants are the vehicle and area were not changed during the two tests. Amount of power should have been administered better via rpm. Front trans mount is modified and does not allow the same lifting of the motor as the stock mount.



New mount.


Definate difference in movement, a difference in amount of power used during tests from stock mount to urethane can be noted in watching the upper right corner of the video, space from Regal mirror to edge of video frame.

Looks like a slight improvement but still a heck of a lot of engine movement.
It must be that blasted front shock mount. Such a sloppy design.

The mounts for the +'00's control the engine movement so much better.

I'll give you credit for innovation on this one. You mix urethane as well as you mix FRP.

2000Silverbullet wrote:Looks like a slight improvement but still a heck of a lot of engine movement.
It must be that blasted front shock mount. Such a sloppy design.

You mix urethane as well as you mix FRP.

BillBoost37 wrote:Front trans mount is modified and does not allow the same lifting of the motor as the stock mount.

What shock mount are you talking about? Here's a picture of my front trans mount. It is extremely similar in design to the 2000+ mounts with the exception that it also incorporates the stock rubber block as well as the movement limiting bolt.


As for movement, There is some...however I was power braking to roughly 3,000 rpm. That is enough power that the brakes could not fully hold the car. That flex you see is a level of torque that only a couple members on the forum are close to in power. The car is easily in the 12's at the moment.

What is FRP?