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Good job! So, I take it the car is now complete?

It idles so nice now.

Yes complete and heading to the Insurance office tomorrow.
Should be able to burn off a tank of fuel by the weekend.
Will probably take a ferry and drive to the Peninsula on Thursday.

School is finished now except for 2 exams on Wednesday and two next Monday.

Then he can drive himself back and forth to work.

I know this car will take him through College.......if he treats it right.

Well done, guys. Very well done.

5 business days, just like they said...

Thanks Paul

sweet, now he can say that he built that car, he didn't just buy it.

Yes, he won't be afraid to wrench off a bolt when it's time for repairs.

He was up early this morning.......no school today........he's looking for the keys!

Put the plates back on this morning and went for a drive.
Nice. Real nice.

Service Engine soon light came on. Pulled over and using the scan tool John loaned me we checked and no codes. Coolant temp was 210 and never went below 200 F
Trani temp held steady at 195 F
This Series 1 runs much hotter than my Series 2.

Erased all codes. Restarted the engine and everything was perfect after that. Even the rear center light works now and no low oil warning.

Topped up the trani fluid level.

Shifts nice and firm and has good 4th gear and lock up. I think the trani will last a while if he does'nt beat on it.

maybe the code was just a history code, IDK? but, the grizz has a 195 stat tho right? the bullet has a 160. so it should run hotter. What about throwing a 180 in there.

Topics merged (new topic merged with the existing topic).

So I guess I'll just keep this thread going all summer.....

I installed a drilled 180 F stat in the Grizz.
Even when I had the same stat in my Series 2, it never ran at 210 F in cool weather. I do notice the temp comes down to 90C on the highway. The fans have a very high turn on set point.

......maybe I'm just too used to the Bullet and it's been a while since it was stock.

Victor just called. The trani is acting up. Free revs when starting out and then grabs if manually moving selector into 1st.

He said it only did it a couple of times and is OK now.

He better start saving....

He can't save and now owes me another $200. for split on 3 months insurance and plates.

......and I'm finished giving.

Could just be a sticky solenoid from sitting so long. Makes sense if it works in manual 1.

Consider some Seafoam TransTune, then a partial fluid/filter change before it heads down here.

I HIGHLY recommend the product called Lube Gaurd.
The 4T60 of any type and 4T65 can SAFELY be overfilled by one litre as well, one tip I have learned from working with several transmission techs over the past three years. The Side pan is huge and will hold alot of oil when turning, this prevents it from running dry, even for a millisecond.
LubeGaurd will safely free up sticking valves, check balls, and servos.
You could have a pistion that is sticking in the accumulator housing, also, a spring in there could be damaged.

Secondly, I would install an adjustable vaccum modulator on the front of that trans, if there is any ATF in the old vac modulator, like, in the vac nipple, it needs to be replaced.
I use words of caution though, when installing one of these on an older transmission, a line pressure gague should be installed so you know were you are starting and were you are going, the pressure port is on the driver side in the general area of the breather.

Thirdly, dropping the pan and changing JUST the oil that comes out would be recommended, a good time to check the shift cushion pistons in the accumlator, along with the springs, make sure you have a new gasket for that housing though. Change that filter, and crack the old one open. The only thing you wanna see in there is a tiny bit of grey, and some aluminum shavings, a tid bit, this is normal "case flash".

However, your clutches may be worn, however, that problem could also be your input roller clutch slipping.
Just a few things to try.

It has fresh fluid and a new filter. So what should I add? Lube Guard or Sea Foam Trans Tune? I know the clutches are worn and there was a broken plastic shim plate in the pan when I pulled it.

I woud go with the lube gaurd if you can find it.

Trans Tune is to be used before a flush or drain most times, but if the fluid is new, and the trans isn't perfect right now, it'll do a good job to clean up the solenoids and any other varnish build up.

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Listening to: Tom Petty & the Heartbreakers - Hope on Board
via FoxyTunes

I think the Canadian Tire Store here has that Lucas product. The one that swells up the seals and increases the pressure.

The only product other than trans fluid to ever see the inside of my trans is Seafoam TransTune. It worked wonders for the Zilla during it's final days.

I can't speak to the other products.

If I can find some......do you think Napa might have it?