I've got the shakes and can't get rid of them

Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's, Olds 98 91-96, Buick Lesabres and Park Avenue 91-96. Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.
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adinini
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I've got the shakes and can't get rid of them

Post by adinini »

My car starts shaking around 50-55mph and I can't find what's causing it!!! I've did the following:
-changed tires
-alignment (4 wheel x2)
-changed front struts (actually got worse after this)
-checked front wheel bearing (good)
-wheel balancing x 4
-checked engine mounts
-checked tie rods

Any ideas before I take it to the dealer and let them charge me an arm/leg and still not fix it.

Thanks...
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Re: I've got the shakes and can't get rid of them

Post by J Wikoff »

Internal tire problems can cause a shimmy. Like broken belting. I don't know how you check for that if it hasn't broken through the surface of the tire.
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Re: I've got the shakes and can't get rid of them

Post by bonnevillain »

do you feel it in the steering wheel? you didnt mention a rotation... move the front tires to the back and see if the feel changes. I'll second a bad tire.
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adinini
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Re: I've got the shakes and can't get rid of them

Post by adinini »

I changed the tires so that was not the problem and tires were rotated when I balanced them.
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Re: I've got the shakes and can't get rid of them

Post by danthurs »

Brake rotor.
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Re: I've got the shakes and can't get rid of them

Post by Jrs3800 »

Also check both axles... The CV joint should have no play, the Tripod end will have a slight amount of in and out play.. The CV should have no play, if it does you will need to replace it.. I have a vibration at 65-80 ish, it comes and goes... My Passenger side CV has play in it.. Not bad but not a good thing either..
Last edited by Jrs3800 on Thu Dec 18, 2008 1:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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adinini
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Re: I've got the shakes and can't get rid of them

Post by adinini »

Sorry...Didn't mention I also changed the rotors too. The CV joint is a good idea, I should have checked that when I did the struts.

Thanks...
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Re: I've got the shakes and can't get rid of them

Post by fleettech2252004 »

what about ball joints,, or control arm bushings?

would these two items cause a vibration?

hope you find the problem.
DAVE

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gutted air box, drilled 180* t-stat, TR55s, belden wires
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Re: I've got the shakes and can't get rid of them

Post by 99bonnie »

i got the same *dang* problem
got onto the highway today and it started shaking...lik a quick intense shake that shakes the entire car when i go over 100 kmh
riding the same *shoot* boat i can use some help too befor i start dumping that kind of money
cheers
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Re: I've got the shakes and can't get rid of them

Post by Bob Keyes »

I'm going with one (or more) of your tires has an issue. I put 4 new Dunlops on my 97 just after I bought it and had the same problem. I kept taking it back for re balance, alignment, inspection etc. After about a year of dealing with it I took it to the same place to get a free rotation and they told me I had a bad tire, out of the blue! They replaced it under warranty....problem gone! It may be worth talking to the people you got the tires from.
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Re: I've got the shakes and can't get rid of them

Post by imidazol97 »

adinini wrote:My car starts shaking around 50-55mph and I can't find what's causing it!!! I've did the following:
-changed tires
-alignment (4 wheel x2)
-changed front struts (actually got worse after this)
-checked front wheel bearing (good)
-wheel balancing x 4
-checked engine mounts
-checked tie rods

Any ideas before I take it to the dealer and let them charge me an arm/leg and still not fix it.

Thanks...
Since it got worse with tighter, new struts that suggests it's coming from the wheels.

Were the alignments right on middle or did they say it was within tolerances? You want it right on the optimum setting.

What tires were the replacements? Did the shaking change character with the new tires? Michelins are the roundess when rolling under the weight of the car--verify your wheels/tires with a Hunter 9700.

If not, that suggests out-of-round rims or something from the rotating axles.

Use the hunter.com website to locate a Hunter Road Force balancer 9700.
On this page find a quality shop that has a Hunter 9700
http://hunter.com/pub/product/balancer/index.htm
http://www.gsp9700.com/pub/search/FindGSP9700.cfm

Someone else mentioned a brake caliper dragging. It will heat up the rotor and pads and give a bump to the wheel everytime it comes around and hits the high spot on the warped rotor.
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Re: I've got the shakes and can't get rid of them

Post by fleettech2252004 »

Hey all,,

first of all, i've had this problem now since i bought the car a year ago. I've also done all the checks that are suggested to be done to find the problem, i.e. tie rods, ball joints, struts, bushings, bearings, etc,etc. ( I've replaced the ties, (inner and outer), new tires, balanced (twice) alignment (twice), cleaned entire wheel of grit and grime, and engine and trans mounts).
Yesterday I decided to change my ball joints, (since they were original) and the boots were split. WHOA,, no more shakie shakie.
I had been assuming they were still okay, since i wasnt getting any play, at 6 and 12 and or 3 and 9. Boy was i mistaken. #-o
Well at least i'll know in the future what to look for. Also, i was looking in the SM about the ball joints, and it does say in there that if the boots are ripped or torn, the joint WILL fail.

I hope this helps others out there with the same issues. I guess the old saying is true,, if in doubt replace it anyway, unless you've already "been there, done that" :)

Everyone here at Pontiac Bonneville Club,, keep up the GREAT work!!
DAVE

'95 Bonneville SE
3800 series II
THE
BLACK BANDIT

gutted air box, drilled 180* t-stat, TR55s, belden wires
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Re: I've got the shakes and can't get rid of them

Post by Christopher1watson »

adinini wrote:My car starts shaking around 50-55mph and I can't find what's causing it!!! I've did the following:
-changed tires
-alignment (4 wheel x2)
-changed front struts (actually got worse after this)
-checked front wheel bearing (good)
-wheel balancing x 4
-checked engine mounts
-checked tie rods

Any ideas before I take it to the dealer and let them charge me an arm/leg and still not fix it.

Thanks...
First. I'll write that alot of things can make a car shake.

Balance would be the most common.

I see you've done that with a new set of tires.

Hopefully it was at a quality shop. Take it back and, have them balanced and, rotated. Also, ask them to check for a bent rim.

I could use a little more information, too.

Does it get worse on rough roads. If it shakes the steering wheel when hitting bumps. And, I know it will normally. The question is excessive shaking from bumps. Excessive shaking from bumps indicates bushings and, ball joints. Even loose tie rod ends. Visually check your lower control arm bushings. Jack it up by the frame. Not the control arm. You check the ball joints unloaded. Let the control arm and, wheel hang free. Grab the tire at the top and, bottom. Give it a good shake. Looseness indicates wheel bearing and, or, lower ball joints. Repair as needed. Then realign. But, here's the kicker. Most shops will not align an auto with loose front end parts/ OK. So, you've probably eliminated anything but a bent rim or a drive axle. I'd have to recommend a 4 wheel alignment BTW.

If, you have the balance redone. Ask them to check for a bent rim.

Drive shafts. This is a complicated deal.

First, inspect the boots. For damage. And, also to see if one has been replaced. Sometimes people will reboot a damaged driveshaft. You may have a bent drive shaft. Inspect the shaft for visual impact damage. Dents, ect. Drive the car in a parking lot. Make tight slow turns accelerating. Listen for clicking noises. If the driveshaft clicks in sharp turn while acclerating. It needs repaired/replaced.

Sometimes drive shaft joints fail. For no seeable reason. These are hard to diagnose. The easiest way to find this is to accelerate hard. See if you get a wobble from hard acceleration. The next way is tricky. You need the auto on a lift and, a big long prybar. Make sure there is nothing behind the car. Start the car. Have somebody put it in drive and, bring it up to speed. Watch the drive wheels for shake. See if the shake is in the drive wheels. The shake could be comming from the back. Stop the car from spinning the wheels. Put it in nuetral. Manuelly spin each wheel and watch to see if they are out of round. If the tire is not truely round you have a problem. Feel the surface of each tire. For any roughness, choppynesss, or lumps and, flat spots. Replace any tire or rim that is not true. This will not verfie rear wheel balance or, a bad drive shaft. Back to the drive wheels. If you drive wheels appear good. But, you have a shaky wheel during the rack drive test. Remove the shaky wheel. Put the wheel nuts flat side in down on the rotor to hold it in position. Tighten down all wheel nuts flats side/top to 20 ft. lbs. Run the car again. See if the hub rotor and bearing shake at your known problem speed. If, the shake is gone. Rotate a different wheel to this hub. Repeat rack check. See if a different tire shakes.

If, the hub rotor axle assembly shakes without the wheel. Well. You still have to determine why. Rotors are balanced. check for the rotor balance weight. Remove the rotor. Recheck. See if rotor removal makes the shake go away. If it does. Replace rotor. If, not. Inspect wheel bearing. A little looseness doesn't mean it's bad. Turn it and, feel for roughness. If you feel roughness. Remove the bearing. Check the wheel bearing for roughness off the car. Any roughness or, excessive looseness indicates a worn/damaged/rusty bearing. Well. you are down to the drive shaft. Check it for side to side looseness. All driveshafts plunge. So, pushing it in and, out will be normal. Don't pull it out to far. Or, you may pull the tripod out of the plunge joint. And, you'll have the pull the boot off and, put the tripod back into the plunge joint.

OK. If, you can't find anything by making these checks. Reassemble. Drop the car till it's about a foot off the ground. Have somebody bring the car to the shakeing speed. This is dangerous so be careful. Make sure there is nothing behind the car for a little ways. Like at least 50 ft. While the drive wheel is going 55(Speed stated) Slide you bar preferable at least 10 long on the ground under the wheel about 1.5 ft. Hang on to the other end of it tight. Slowly pick up your end of the bar making contact to the wheel while spinning in drive(Going forward wheel movement) Careful now. If you apply to much friction. The wheel will yank the bar out of you hands and, shoot it out behind the car. Hitting anything in the way. As, you do this test. If the applied pressure makes the car/wheel start shaking. It's the drive shaft.

That test is a advanced check for a acceleration wobble test. Most bad drive shafts will wobble on semi hard acceleration.

You also need to check engine mts. Make sure the engine doesn't have a shake from missing, or bad cylinder or bad valve. You may have a engine misfire at 2500 rpm (estimated) or, at the speed you are experienceing it.

If, it shakes when you brake. It's rotors and, or, drum that aren't true. Except, bent rims and, seperated out of round tires can cause this.

So. It can be caused by alot of things. And, even a combination a several things.

Like, I wrote. A better description might help. Like in curves. Are the tires inflated properly? Are all the tire the same size and, brand??

God Bless,

Chris
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