Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's, Olds 98 91-96, Buick Lesabres and Park Avenue 91-96. Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.
I'm in a need to replace fuel pupm. Fuel pressure is lower than it should be.
The question is do I need to replace only pump or the sending unit should be replaced too assuming there is no corrosion and the old sender still in decent shape?
What's reasonable cost to pay mechanic to do this job ? I won't be able to drop fuel tank on the street. Not this kind of job.
Advance has pump and sender combo for $153. Free ground shipping.
Carter pump on E Bay is $90 shipped.
Still can't decide what to go for.
Pump and sender can be replaced separately. If your fuel gauge isn't acting funny, save the extra money. Should take less than an hour labor. You might want to look at the straps and order those if they look too bad.
Vas62 wrote:I'm in a need to replace fuel pupm. Fuel pressure is lower than it should be.
The question is do I need to replace only pump or the sending unit should be replaced too assuming there is no corrosion and the old sender still in decent shape?
What's reasonable cost to pay mechanic to do this job ? I won't be able to drop fuel tank on the street. Not this kind of job.
Advance has pump and sender combo for $153. Free ground shipping.
Carter pump on E Bay is $90 shipped.
Still can't decide what to go for.
Thank you in advance for replying.
Take a look at the metal pipes coming out of the sender. Yours may be different design and different metal than mine. But my 98 had corrosion through the metal pipe that carried the pressured fuel and was seeping through. The pipe is a part of the sender for mine. A mechanic type who was going to help me do mine said some of those pipes are replaceable separately form the sender on different models he had worked on.
At least for the 1999 L36, the fuel lines are integral to the sender and cannot be replaced without disassembling everything else necessary to just replace the sender.
I've heard too many horror stories about Carter pumps on other forums to even touch that with a pole and wearing a biohazard suit.
Might as well get the whole unit. You don't know if the old sender will rust out on you in 6 months and you'll have to do the whole sequence all over again. It's the same labor for the sender as for the pump since they're integrated.
Since you're in NY, new straps and strap hardware are a good idea. Not sure if the straps for a 95 are recommended to buy at the dealer or not. I got mine at the dealer after hearing aftermarket straps don't quite fit. The tank will be shifting a little bit after you install it as it settles back into position, and having rusty straps make a pinhole leak in a fine tank is a possibility.
Also, you'll probably need new fuel hoses going from the filler tube to the tank. Those are 1.5" ID and 5/8" ID, IIRC. I had to cut mine off and make up new ones. Some universal radiator/heater hose (carries some pretty nasty gunk for years) in both sizes should do you.
Sender/pump: $165, straps/hoses/misc.: $100. Labor (assuming 2 hours at $90/hour): 180. Grand total: $425. Yes it's expensive to do it right. Better to do it right now than re-do a half-baked job later.
2012 Chevrolet Cruze Eco - Current car
1999 Buick LeSabre Custom - Former car
Learn from the mistakes of others, that way when you mess up you can do so in new and interesting ways.
There are a bunch of us who have had to replace fuel pumps/senders recently. So there are some pretty recent threads with pictures and lots of advice on what to expect if you decide to do it yourself.
2012 Chevrolet Cruze Eco - Current car
1999 Buick LeSabre Custom - Former car
Learn from the mistakes of others, that way when you mess up you can do so in new and interesting ways.
