Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's, Olds 98 91-96, Buick Lesabres and Park Avenue 91-96. Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.
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I´m having trouble with my brakes and traction too besides my brake lines...
Traction control engages almost all the time so I suppose there is something wrong with a sensor.
Both right and left hub has been changed so the fault must be something else.
Do I have to change my drive shafts?
all 4 hubs were replaced? the back ones can cause a problem too. In order for traction control to work, it sees that the back wheels are turning slower than the front ones, and slows down the front ones. And in ABS, its the reverse, the computer sees the fronts are stopped, or going slower than the rears, and engages ABS. Unless all wheel speed sensors are working correctly, the system will fault.
Also, for the front ones, who made the replacements?
John Now: '15 Toyota Prius III | 134 hp 2ZR-FXE | Silver | 36k
Now: '03 Honda CR-V AWD | Slow 4-Cylinder | Dirt | 180k Then: '07 Ford Fusion SEL | 221hp Gen I VVT Duratec 3.0 V6 | Tungsten Silver | 150k
Then: '99 Toyota Avalon XL | 200hp 1MZ-FE 3.0 V6 | Diamond White | 189k | Sold: July 2015
Then: '11 Ford Fusion SEL | 240hp Gen II VVT Duratec 3.0 V6 | Ingot Silver | 84k | Totaled: Oct 23 '14 (Rear-Ended)
Then: '96 Buick Park Avenue Ultra | 240hp Series II L67 | Medium Dark Lichen | Bought: JAN 11 @ 135k | Accident: FEB 3 '12 | Crushed: MAR 1 '13 @ 153K
Then: '98 Pontiac Bonneville SSE | 205hp Series II 3800 L36 | Topaz Firemist | Bought: NOV '09 @ 74k | Accident: MAY 28 '10 | Crushed: MAR 15 '11 @ 84k
Then: '93 Pontiac Bonneville SE | 170hp Series I 3800 L27 | Dark Yellow Green | Bought: JULY '07 @ 92k | Sold: JULY '12 @ 118k
Then: '89 Pontiac Bonneville LE | 165hp 3800 LN3 | Medium Garnet Red | Bought: JAN '05 @ 117k | Sold: SEP 30 '07 @ 152k
Well then, back in the right thread.
Today I´ve checked my rear hub and it seems as my right one has rusted at the back where the speed sensor is located.
I tried to measure the output from it when turning the brake drum and I get less output from the right than the left so I hope I have found the problem.
Is it possible to have a fault like that and still no warning lights?
Next problem is getting that hub from the car, I took away the bolts but it´s really stuck.
Suggestions how to get it loose is appreciated.
If I pull the fuse and drive without ABS until I get my new hub, is there someway to turn of the warning lights without pulling the bulbs?
Disconnect the large round black connector on the PMV assembly below the airbox, and leave the fuses in.
Put a small piece of black electrical tape on your dash over the lights for now.
I've never researched a home-grown technique for checking WSS's. To get a truly accurate representation, I'd expect you need an o-scope. Reading resistance would be just an average of the pulses from the sensor if it works like I think it does. I have a couple old hubs laying around, and I'm thinking it's time to cut into them and see how the mechanical side of the problem looks.
The only problem is that I have to take the car to the yearly inspection we have here in Sweden and they don´t like warning lights that are on :(
Is it possible to remove the bulbs without taking the cluster out?
Mike 72 wrote:Didn´t pass inspection today.
They won´t let it pass with the ABS system unplugged :(
Couldn't you just hook it back up, deal with the issues to get past inspection and then limp home or somewhere close and unplug it again? Or do the inspectors actually drive your car to check it?
They make a test drive, unfortunately :(
So now I need to get those new rear hubs as soon as possible, but I will buy them from USA as they are really expensive here...
Any suggestions where to get them at a fair price?
