Grinding Grizz!

[driverjohn2005]

I'm interested in hearing what the issue truely is

[2000Silverbullet]

Ya, I know. I'd put money on it being a trani mount but can't take that chance 800 miles from home.

Oh well. I figure he is saving about $900. leaving it at home. That will go a long way towards a trani rebuild.........and new tires.

[2000Silverbullet]

Ah..ha. We found it!
I asked him to watch the engine while I held the brake and rev'd the engine in gear.

Holy sheep shack look at the engine move and hey, the mount rubber block is broken away from the metal.
....not exactly in those words, if you know Victor!

Sounds familiar doesn't it Bill.

Phoned for a price from Napa..... $250 !!!!! The parts guy told me it was the most expensive mount he ever priced.

Victor is planning to take it to a shop and pay for installation since I will be away the next 2 weeks. Hopefully it won't take them more than a hour to replace it.

[Peterg22000]

told ya so

[BillBoost37]

A drill, grade 8 bolt, 13mm, 15mm sockets, floor jack and board is all that is needed to fix it for the price of the bolt.

[willwren]

The rubber needs to be intact to prevent the motor/trans from shifting in the engine bay. Even if bolted, things will shift around.

Modify a new mount, and it won't pull apart. Never modify or repair one of these if broken. It puts stress on all the other mounts.

$250?

$43.79 on Rock Auto. That's the 94/95 front trans mount with shock. And that's without our club discount.

Why pay a shop to do it? This isn't rocket science.

[BillBoost37]

Not to hijack, I thought you had good success with the bolt on a broken mount?

[willwren]

No, that was a new mount. I experimented with the broken mount. The bolt alone isn't enough to hold the mount in the proper position without the rubber in between as resistance. The bolt mod prevents the rubber from ripping apart as quickly though. Back on topic, this still doesn't solve the broken seals and bushings found in the Grizz's pan.

Back off topic, driverjohn had a CATASTROPHIC failure of his mount (installed by me 3 years ago) where the steel retainer pin snapped and bored itself at an angle up through the rubber.

Freaky.

[2000Silverbullet]

Bringing this back because the grinding noise has not gone away. I will abandon the "smoking exhaust crack" thread because that also is not the problem.

All the mounts are fine.

This grinding noise is only in 1st gear under load at low rpms. Also sometimes you can hear it with the hood popped stopped in drive. You can feek it in the floorboards stopped in drive.
All instances are after the engine has warmed up and is in closed loop.

When the noise happens, the SES light pops up and power is retarded.
The code is 325.......system electrical fault.....knock sensor fault.

[Wes]

with that code, I would start by measuring the resistance between the sensor and the block. should be between 3.3k and 4.5k ohms.

but I really dont think that to be the root of the problem. probably just false knock from what ever is grinding.

[2000Silverbullet]

The knock sensor threaded into the block into what seemed to be under oil pressure, so I used RTV silicone on the threads to seal it.
Was that OK ?

[Wes]

my instinct say no. as the ground for the sensor is the threads to the block. but im not 100% sure if the rtv will have any negative effects on it. i guess if you measure the resistance and its still in the spec i posted above, then you're ok.

[2000Silverbullet]

Victor is convinced that it's the Supercharger that is making the noise.
The noise is only present after the engine is warm and heat soaked.

The sound is coming from the top of the SC around the alternator area.

Could that be the PCV valve vibrating?

......the SC rotor bearings were good when I took it apart in the spring and I even added a little dab of new grease.

I have another appointment tomorrow with Mr. Goodwrench.....

[2000Silverbullet]

This is really baffling me.
Took it for another run to heat it up and used John's scanner this time to monitor Advance, KR, temp, etc.

At idle the temp would go up to 207 F and then the fans would come on.
Trani temp stayed at 185 during heavy throttle applications.
KR stayed at 5 degrees contantly......the SES light could not be turned off. We could clear the code and get the light to turn off but it would quickly reappear.
325 Electronic Spark Control failure

Any heavy acceleration in 1st gear would produce this growling/ginding/buzzing noise.
Flooring in second gear won't do it.
The acceleration is pityfull with the timing pulled.

Stopping in drive and particularly in reverse with the parking brake on opened the hood to observe by feeling and listening. Buzzing feeling from the alternator but then again it could be from the SC........so hard to tell.

Tomorrow I will remove the SC belt after warming it up for process of elimination effort before I take it into the dealer.
The last time I took it to the dealer, they charged me $195 to tell me the TPS needed replacement and I had an exhaust leak. The TPS cost me $150, the new resonator that replaced the cat $150, and the manifold repair $100. They cleared the code, but it came back the instant I drove away.
They couldn't hear the noise because they didn't heat it up to normal temp.
It'll be good and hot when I take it in there tomorrow....

[harofreak00]

I'm sure you know this Paul, but what you are staying doesn't sound right. Don't take the SC belt off a s1 if you plan on getting it hot... you lose the waterpump

[2000Silverbullet]

I'm willing to try anything to find out what is wrong with this lime coloured lemon.

[harofreak00]

Overheating the engine is not the solution.

[2000Silverbullet]

Don't worry I will just heat it up enough so they can hear this darned noise !

It kinda feels like a vibrating phone going off constantly on the floorboards under high torque conditions.

Cold, with the SES light off, the engine runs like a champ. Trani shifts fine now with the new modulator.
As soon as it goes into warmed up mode, that's when it happens.

[BillBoost37]

325 Electronic Spark Control failure

Have you gone through the FSM diagnostics for this code?

[2000Silverbullet]

Yes, I have.
It is the code for the Knock Sensor circuit but I'm convinced that it's the mystery noise that is triggering the knock sensor to retard and setting the code. I can clear it but it comes back as soon as the torque related noise is produced.