Replacing brake booster

Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's, Olds 98 91-96, Buick Lesabres and Park Avenue 91-96. Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.
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bonniebird
SLE Member
SLE Member
Posts: 34
Joined: Sun Feb 16, 2014 7:05 pm
Year and Trim: 1998 SE

Replacing brake booster

Post by bonniebird »

Thought replacing the brake booster on my 98 bonnie would be easier....geez its a nightmare inside the car just trying to gain access to the booster studs...so far just got the cover plate off...hate laying under the steering wheel...anyone have a magic wand???? The factory book tells me crap!!!!
MKMike
Posts like an L67
Posts like an L67
Posts: 1305
Joined: Thu May 01, 2014 9:37 pm
Year and Trim: 1993 SLE
1998 SE
2001 SSEI
2002 SSEI

Re: Replacing brake booster

Post by MKMike »

Are you sure the booster is bad, not just the check valve that plugs into it?
Is the vacuum hose going to the booster intact or is it cracked, split, etc.?

2 tests to do before replacing the booster:

Inspect the Check Valve
1.Disconnect the vacuum hose where it connects to the intake manifold. Do not disconnect the vacuum line from the booster. Air should not flow when pressure is applied, but should flow when suction is applied. If air flows in both directions or there is no air flow, the valve needs to be replaced.

Verify Enough Vacuum
1.Check the operating vacuum pressure when the engine is at normal operating temperature. There should be a minimum of 18 in. of vacuum. Vacuum may be increased by properly tuning the engine, checking for vacuum leaks and blockages in vacuum lines.

Excerpted from here http://www.classicperform.com/TechBook/ ... eshoot.htm
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