Skipping and bogging down

[Adperryjr]

I have a 1996 Bonneville SE just rolled over 200k. The engine sometimes has a really rough start up and acts like it's misfiring then goes back to normal after about a minute of running. Now when I accelerate it bogs down and acts like it's skipping. I let off the throttle and give it gas again and it starts to accelerate without misfiring but has nowhere near the amount of power it usually does.
My dad and brother just borrowed it to go on a trip to Ohio from South Carolina. It was fine before they went on the trip apart from the occasional rough start up.
When they were up there they put one of those weird metal things that's supposed to spin the air in the intake and they said it started acting up so they took it back out.
I haven't really had a chance to look at anything on it yet other than they put the cover back on the engine and had knocked a few vacuum lines loose and pushed two sparkplug wires into the cooling fan so when the fan kicked on in traffic it started misfiring.
It's not throwing any codes, it had the oil changed before they left as well as transmission fluid and filter. I replaced the plugs, wires, and crank sensor about 30k miles ago.
I was going to start with trying to clean the throttle body, maf, air filter,and put new plugs and wires in when I get off work tomorrow. Any suggestions or tips will be much appreciated thanks in advance.

[MKMike]

In addition to what you are planning to do, I would change the oil again, since it probably has been contaminated with fuel from driving it a long distance while misfiring.
If there's enough fuel in the oil, it can explode in the crankcase when you try to start it.
A new fuel filter and new PCV valve would also be good plus I would also hook up a fuel pressure gauge to check the fuel pressure.
Hopefully, the converter didn't get damaged from burning off the fuel that the engine didn't because of the misfiring.
After the misfire issues are fixed, you can check to see if the converter is clogged by hooking up a vacuum gauge, running the engine at about 2000-2500 RPM and seeing if the vacuum steadily drops.
It should only momentarily drop when the idle speed is first raised, then go back up. If it doesn't and continues to drop, then you have a blockage.

[mikeluscher159]

Sounds like they did a number on it

Plugs, wires, fuel/air filter, take the stupid tornado thing out of the intake

Clean the MAF, reinstate all vacuum lines, see if the FPR is leaking fuel

[Adperryjr]

I put ac delco iridium plugs in it and cleaned the maf. I did notice that part of the maf was broken off so it doesn't have the complete hole the air is supposed to go through. My map sensor was all but coming out so I put it back in. When they put the stupid tornado thing in they broke my intake air temperature sensor.
The plugs did help a pretty good bit. The tips on the old plugs were all but burnt off ( Bosch platinum plus 4) but they were still firing.
The fuel filter is seized on and I'm going to have to cut and put a new line on. I seafoamed the fuel for the time being.
I found a few of the sensors I need online for cheap the maf is only 34 and the map is only 17. Would it be okay if I went with these or should I get them from somewhere like AutoZone?

[MKMike]

Holy smokes!
I sure hope your dad is paying for the parts that he and your brother broke.

Personally, I'd be afraid to use really cheap parts, though I suppose everything is made in China nowadays, anyway.
Even some brands that used to be "top-notch" years ago seem to have gone by the wayside, quality-wise.
Rockauto gives a discount to forum members and Amazon is another reasonably-priced source that I regularly use.

The broken plastic on the MAF must surely cause the computer to create the wrong air/fuel mixture.
If the MAP just needs to be secured, you can buy this Dorman Motormite PCV Valve Kit 47033 which includes the housing to hold the MAP sensor.
For the frozen fuel filter, many of us have used a wrench to hold the line fitting in place and then turned the filter to remove it, rather than installing a new line.
You might get it to unseize if you give it some blasts of PBBlaster or Kroil.
Though it has worked well on other things, PBBlaster didn't unseize the fitting on my road-salted and now frozen fuel filter connector but the filter was removable as described above..
I have a 93 SE and a 98 SE---and what an unpleasant surprise it was to find that GM tossed the 93's simple, reliable fuel filter connection and replaced it with this seemingly designed to seize connection.
Delphi was often the OEM manufacturer of MAF sensors, wires, fuel pumps, etc., so you can sometimes get the Delphi part for less money than the AC Delco and be getting the same part.
I wouldn't skip the wires, since the fan likely did serious damage to them, even if you can't see it because of the insulation.
The ACDelco IAT sensor is pretty cheap at around 15 bucks, FWIW.

[Adperryjr]

Yeah the threads where the line a filter go together are rusted together. Why they had to put a quick disconnect and threads on the filter are beyond me.
How do I go about using the discount on RockAuto? I work at AutoZone and the parts through there are honestly kinda stupidly priced it's 105 for the maf and 75 for the map. The iat is only 17 so I'm not even worried about that.

[MKMike]

http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... 46095.html

[Oldsman003]

I just got a severe skip figured out in my LSS, *dang* injector was acting up. swapped out for my spare set, no more issue. mine would skip and tug and misfire and bog. very frusturating but atleast i was able to find the problem. last option after i swapped out coils, icm, ngk plugs and delco wires. i also had to do my lim gasket but an injector is a simple easy fix and it sounds like same symptoms. but the map sensor can cause headaches as can the tps, maf and make sure all your vacuum lines are good!!! one little leak and these engines run terrible. its almost always by the throttle body.

[J Wikoff]

Make sure your plug wires are going to the right plugs.