Discuss your 2000-2005 Bonneville SE, SLE, SSEi, Buick Le Sabre 00-05 and Buick Park Avenue 97-05. Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.
I have acquired a 2000 Buick Park Ave Ultra which has a torn cv boot on the driver's side and there's grease everywhere. I'm about ready to tackle as I have the replacement axle cardone 661444. I notice the axle didn't come with a abs ring do I use the old? Any tips as to removing everything to get to the shaft? I don't want to tear my tie rod bushing so what would be the best way to remove without causing damaged?
Also, would a bad cv axle cause a drag on performance as I've recently did a tune up and did not notice any restored power at all. The plugs I removed where through, they looked like they came with the car. Even the 2/4 coil pack (middle) had some type of rust dust between the the plug and electrode post, it looked as someone put this reddish brown colored dust there on purpose. I mos definitely thought I was going to feel more power after the tune up, but no. Other than that the car drives fine and goes into boost well, just can't really tell. I'm wanting to get this car together so I can really get into some mods.
93' Purple SE (Totaled)
92' White SSE (MIA)
06' Charger R/T
08' Altima Coupe
00' Buick Park Ave Ultra
I'm honestly not sure what the ABS ring looks like, but I have a feeling that if there is one, it's swappable. I only see one for sale on Rockauto. If people needed new ones with any frequency, there'd be other choices. My 92 had no such ring to worry about. Even the ACDelco part is just $15 or so. Maybe get one and have it on hand just in case?
I'd be pretty tempted to get a new trans output shaft seal. I've only done two CV's, and I'm 50/50 on leakage after the shaft swap. I had to take one back out and put a new seal in. They are $5-$10.
Get a new axle nut.
Once you have the nut off the end of the tie rod, give it a real good shot of PB Blaster (or similar), wait a while, run the nut back on so it's just a bit proud of the threads, then give it a good whack with a mallet from below. You may have to do the same to get the strut bolts out of the knuckle. You might want to somehow mark how the knuckle sits in the lower strut mount so you can get it close when putting it back together. Don't bother un-nutting the ball joint or trying to separate it. The knuckle will rotate out of the way enough once you have the tie rod popped out and the lower strut mount bolts out.
I don't think a CV will drag too much without making a lot of noise or vibration.
WHITE WHINE - 1992 SSE Supercharged 236.26 ci (.040 Over) 15.090 at 90.2 MPH on old engine w/ slipping trans & melted O2 sensor - Gen 3 M62 and matching TB, Gen 2 Pully, Zillamotorsports Ported LIM, YT 1.72 Roller Rockers, SII FPR & Injectors, Hypertech Thermomaster chip w/ 160 Thermo, TransGo Shift Kit, Infinity/Pioneer Speakers & a 10" Alpine Type R Sub, all the watts, 140 amp Alternator, Ricepipe CAI w/ heatshield, Pilot Angel Eye Foglights, Clear Corners, '02 17" Chrome Bent 5's, Magnaflow F-Body Muffler and Hi-flo Cat, Ceramic Coated Ported Exhaust Manifolds, Fan Override, Monroe Reflex struts, red calipers 2009 G8 GT - Sport Red Metallic, loaded, SOLO Axlebacks, Rotofab Intake, Tuned, autodim mirror, removed intake manifold cover, HSV GTS triple gauge pod, two tone red-hot shifter and HSV SuperSport steering wheel, GXP rear sway bar and diffuser, 3.45 diff and various Camaro suspension bits, LED Taillights
Should not be an ABS ring. The ABS sensor is the wheel speed sensor built into the hub.
Your part number is correct. You will be fine installing the one you have. May want to pick up and output shaft seal and change it while the axle is out.
This is a little old but I want to chime in about preventing trans leaks after replacing the cv axles. My experience is to use OEM trans seals as they have a better seal. The aftermarket ones you buy from Autozone/Napa/O'Reilys are not made with as tight tolerances as OEM and may or may not leak. Spend the few bucks more and grab the seals from GM.
Edit* I know you guys don't have timing belts, but the same applies for when doing timing belts and changing the camshaft and crankshaft seals. Get the OEM ones, spend a little more and save yourself a big headache.
Why would he need a new nut? Just wondering cause I had the axels out during the trans repair (duh) and removed and reinstalled the same one when i replaced a wheel bearing. They didnt seem messed up
WHITE WHINE - 1992 SSE Supercharged 236.26 ci (.040 Over) 15.090 at 90.2 MPH on old engine w/ slipping trans & melted O2 sensor - Gen 3 M62 and matching TB, Gen 2 Pully, Zillamotorsports Ported LIM, YT 1.72 Roller Rockers, SII FPR & Injectors, Hypertech Thermomaster chip w/ 160 Thermo, TransGo Shift Kit, Infinity/Pioneer Speakers & a 10" Alpine Type R Sub, all the watts, 140 amp Alternator, Ricepipe CAI w/ heatshield, Pilot Angel Eye Foglights, Clear Corners, '02 17" Chrome Bent 5's, Magnaflow F-Body Muffler and Hi-flo Cat, Ceramic Coated Ported Exhaust Manifolds, Fan Override, Monroe Reflex struts, red calipers 2009 G8 GT - Sport Red Metallic, loaded, SOLO Axlebacks, Rotofab Intake, Tuned, autodim mirror, removed intake manifold cover, HSV GTS triple gauge pod, two tone red-hot shifter and HSV SuperSport steering wheel, GXP rear sway bar and diffuser, 3.45 diff and various Camaro suspension bits, LED Taillights
Other than that the car drives fine and goes into boost well, just can't really tell. I'm wanting to get this car together so I can really get into some mods.
