Gen V Swap

[redzmonte]

I have all the parts ready to go FINALLY getting around to doing the swap. I will have it done next Sunday most likely. To make things fast and easy i ordered a NEW oem L32 Intake manifold... it showed up and was damaged in shipping so we sent it back and had the dealer order another that wasn't all busted up. Last week i did a new Radiator (mine was leaking) and replaced the trans cooler lines with replacements that I had SS Braided flex lines added in place of the rubber crimped on lines... Lol I am SICK of leaks I can tell you that much.. hopefully they will not leak again or for a VERY long time. once that is done i will take it to my tuner and have him do a full proper tune on it so that i can make sure its running 100%. the Mail order tune i got on there now is decent but in colorado Elevation i am going to do it proper and have the car tuned.. Will have dyno sheet as well..

I will get pics of the install and post them.

S

[redzmonte]

Gen V Blower with ZZP hub... getting ready for a 3.4-3.25" pulley:


NEW OEM L32 intake manifold (12603871) and Gaskets from GM

[00Beast]

How do you damage an intake manifold during shipping?! Those things are tough...

[redzmonte]

in a large box and no packing... the studs and pins were jacked up.. the cast part was nicked in a couple spots, they replaced no questions asked... apparently the manifolds come with free overnight shipping so i had them both the day after ordering.

Also got the T-stat and aluminum coolant elbows... should have everything ready for install. i will need to drill and tap a spot for the PCV is the only thing left to do.

[00Beast]

I'd bet they were just stocked at a local distribution warehouse. But anyways. Lots of pics!!!

[redzmonte]

he said they came out of somewhere like Michigan or Tennessee and it was overnighted, most parts we get come out of Denver (hour away). either way its always nice getting things next day pics will be posted after install.

As for the radiator, i just swapped mine because of a leak and it looks like there is a petcock on the bottom of the passenger side. when i swapped I just pulled the hoses and made a frigging mess... I just need to drain a little out to get it low enough to keep from making a mess in the engine when the intake manifold comes off. Looking back at it i could have saved myself a large mess had i saw there was a petcock.. lol well now i know and knowing is 1/2 the battle!


S

[2000Silverbullet]

You can save a mess by simply syphoning a half gallon of coolant out the fill point.

[olblueeyesbonne]

Best way to prevent coolant getting into the bottom of the engine when you remove the LIM is:



1. Remove the knock sensor from the front of the block (white single wire connection located between the AC compressor and the starter) -you may have to stick a screwdriver through the sludge that may be preventing any coolant from draining once the knock sensor is removed (22mm or 7/8").
*While under for this also pull the oil filter and oil drain plug to drain the oil.
**Do not put knock sensor or oil drain plug/filter back on until you are ready to put the new fluids in after reassembling the top end.

2. Jack the drivers side of the car up as high and safely as you can so coolant will run to passenger side of the LIM.

3. **Have catch pan located under crank pulley to catch fluids running down passenger side of the block.****
Remove the Alternator bracket (Three 15mm bolts) -crush the upper coolant elbow that goes into the LIM and rotate the bracket forward and backwards while pulling away from the engine so the lower coolant elbow comes out without causing damage to the timing cover.

4. Remove the thermostat housing (Two 10mm bolts) and thermostat.

5. If you have an air compressor and blower nozzle stick the nozzle in the t-stat hole and fill the gap around it with a rag. Then the air flow -this will help blow any coolant left in the LIM down and out the front knock sensor hole and out the end with upper coolant elbow (make sure there is no pieces of the coolant elbow left in the hole on the passenger side of the LIM).

6. Once all bolts, etc are removed and the LIM is ready to be lifted off lift the LIM (KEEP IT LEVEL) straight up without tilting it and away from the engine -keep it level so any fluids still in the LIM will be less likely from draining into the engine.

7. With LIM removed soak any fluids from the valley of the engine between the cylinder heads.

8. Cover the valley of the engine between the cylinder heads with rags or paper towels to catch debris while cleaning the old LIM gaskets off and cleaning the cylinder head-LIM mating surfaces as well as the ends of the block where the end seals will go.

9. After soaking any coolant out of the valley and cleaning the gasket surfaces pour a quart of warm/hot oil all around the valley to 'wash' the valley (first remove whatever you covered the valley with and remove any large debris that may have fallen in while cleaning gasket surfaces) and also wash any coolant that drained into the lower end of the engine down into the oil pan out the drain hole.

[redzmonte]

Got the install done today, need to get the pcv vac drilled and hooked up. but the swap went pretty well 3-4 hours start to finish including the oil change and clean up.

Sounds pretty cool..
Gen III: WEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
Gen V: WOOOOOOOOOO WOOOOOOO (Like bubba Rub!) lol

Fuel rail off getting ready to remove Gen III


Gen III Off and old manifold ready to come out, bolt coolant elbows broke in the ends.. easy to pop out the broken pieces


L32 LIM installed with Alluminum Dorman Elbows ready to go in


Gen V Mounted and ready for fuel rails and TB:


Fuel rails installed (no modification needed)... used 2 new longer bolts and removed alt bracket.... broke nipple off the Evap solenoid so i need to replace it.

[redzmonte]

Gen V finished:

[macksdaddy77]

How do u like it? Runs better??

[2000Silverbullet]

......waiting for the smoke to clear.....

[Jfridge92]

......waiting for the smoke to clear.....

I want a blower :(

[redzmonte]

It runs good, can definatly feel more mid range TQ when accelorating. I havnt done any WOT runs untill i get the PCV hooked up... just kinda open and I know the fuel trims are gunna be jacked up... it didnt like being plugged... made a bad squeeling noise with the nipple plugged... so i made a small cap with a small hole to limit the leak. should be finished up tomorrow.

S

[CatmanFS]

Looks like you could use a nice cold air intake box. Did I mention that I can build one for $50?

[redzmonte]

Nice low and mid rage TQ difference just driving Gingerly around town.. excited to get the tune all dialed in. Got the TB drilled and tapped and the PCV hooked back up correctly..

LOL they only had Blue silicone hose... Black rubber was way thicker so i opted for the Ricy Blue to match my intake couplers.


Thanks for the offer Catman, I do have a Cold air "Fender Well Intake" extension that places the filter out of the engine bay.. just needed to modify the upper intake arm (shortened it about 1") to line back up with the lower piece.
FWI that i made a couple years ago: (Works very well.. little annoying trying clean it, have to pull the fender liner down a little)

[Wes]

Awesome man. But, I don't know how you can cover that hotness with plastic.

[redzmonte]

the cover is off now. it was on when i first got the car and it was "Defoamed" to help let out some heat... I took it off and hung it in the garage for now... maybe now that im not working on it anymore i might put it back on to look stock'ish again.

[nos4blood70]

Looks like a clean swap! Nice job.

Should get us a video of the wooooo woooooooo! Hahahaha

[redzmonte]

going to get it tuned here soon, i will try to get a Dec vid of it maybe on the dyno.

S