Where to purchase brake lines?

[SSEBonne4evr]

Anyone know if there is a turn key set for my 96?

In the past I would just use compression unions to patch line in,
but it sure would be nice to just buy them to length and bend them (pre flared), install and bleed.

[terrancew3]

I know auto parts stores around my area sell the line in 20 foot sections, or in smaller increments like 12", 24" 36", etc.

[95naSTA]

Nothing pre-bent is available.

Do yourself a favor and spend the extra coin on copper nickel brake line. Rolls can be found for a decent price on amazon etc.

You can bend it easily by hand and it's easier to flare.

[MattStrike]

When I did the '93 I bought a 20 foot reel for the back brakes, the fronts and ABS lines were short enough to do with 3 6-foot sections and 2 3-foot sections. Tubing bender was from Lowes. 1 compression union per front line and 2 per rear line.

When I revisited the lines in the front half I did everything with the Ni-Cu line - I don't think I'll ever use steel again.



I'm not aware of any pre-bent lines or anything like that.

[SSEBonne4evr]

I have the bender tool, its just the bubble flare that is the hard part.
They won't let us use compression unions in CT (illegal). Although I never had any
trouble with them.

If the flared lengths are not avaiable, what do you guys use to do the metric
bubble fare on the end.
My cone type flaring tool is junk, only good for copper water lines.

Have a roll of 3/16" brake line from JC Whitney but I don't know what it is.
Looks like galvanized steel.

[MattStrike]

Does that apply to an OEM vehicle, or 'composite' vehicles? How on earth do they expect people to replace brake lines then?

[pbrktrt]

Compression unions are low pressure fittings. Say, 500 PSI max. Modern brake systems can generate 1200-1500 PSI or more in a panic stop. That's why you should always use the proper ready-made lines and the proper unions for them. Any decent parts store will have what you need to repair it.

[SSEBonne4evr]

This is how they are advertised.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-16-in-brass-c ... 67&vxp=mtr

The ultimate would be to buy the flared lines the correct length and just bend and install.
That is what I was asking.
Does anyone carry the correct length bubble flared lines?

[pbrktrt]

The lines come in 8,12,20,30,40,51, & 60 inch sections. You have to connect them with the metric bubble unions. The alternative is a 25 foot roll of 3/16" line, the correct nuts, and a good bubble flare tool.

[SSEBonne4evr]

I'M looking into getting a bubble flaring tool.
If its anything like my standard flaring to its a PITA to work with and just
makes the job so much longer.
Maybe with the copper nickel line it is easier to do.
Had to patch the line under the drivers door for now, ( its Jan. and too cold here).

[95naSTA]

I was able to find one of these used on amazon for about $200 IIRC. It makes flares lines so much easier.. and consistent.

[rustyroger]

I'm constantly amazed that hardly anyone in the USA makes their own brake lines. Just about every British repair shop carries a tube flaring tool and makes brake pipes to order. The kit I use cost £175 fifteen years ago and is still as new, after flaring thousands of tubes.
Cheaper kits are available, fine for handyman mechanics using cupro-nickel tubing.
Compression fittings on brake lines?!?!?!, I can't believe they are legal anywhere in the developed world.

Roger.

[SSEBonne4evr]

The professional flaring tools are way too expensive for the home mechanic's
limited use and the $20 - $30 Auto store sets are of limited quality.
Some say these flare connections leak, which is why the quick connectors are so easy.

In addition there are multiple sizes of fitting nuts on out cars so a off the shelf bubble flare
line won't work. See quote from another thread below.

I have changed many lines on my '92. As far as I know they are all 3/16" lines. They have metric threads and "bubble flares". Standard english threads will appear to be the same, but they are slightly undersize and I don't recommend that you use them.

Unfortunately some of the lines have fittings on them that are larger than standard. (larger than what comes on a typical fixed length line) For example, the rear lines as they enter the proportional valves under the rear doors. The way I have got around that is to cut the flare off a new line, and either re-use the existing fitting or buy a new one from GM. (I think I have the GM part number if you get that far) If you do this you then have to be able to re-flare the end. You should only join the lines by flaring the ends, never use brass or other types of compression fittings or any sort of rubber line. So unless you are changing an entire line from one end to the other, flaring will be necessary.

If you are working on the rear, you will probably want/need new proportional valves as well. If all the lines coming out of the ABS unit up front are rusted, this is a nightmare of a job best left to someone with the patience of a saint. (Again, same brake line size with multiple sizes of fittings)

You have two choices on how to do this job. What I do is obtain a variety of different lengths of line and join them together with the correct couplings, making it come out as close as possible in terms of length.

The other option is to obtain the correct flaring tool and learn how to use it. In this case, you can buy a long roll of brake line and fabricate everything yourself. I find it easier to work with the first method, it's easier to get the lines back where they belong if you do them in pieces. Some lines can only be installed in one piece when the body is off the frame. And before you ask, none of the formed brake lines are available from GM.

Actually bending the lines is a labor of love. What I do is to remove them as much as possible without changing the shape of the line. Then I attempt to duplicate the original with the new line, bending with a combination of my hands and a simple bending tool.

You really can't have them made before they are removed, it's a custom job.

If your brake lines are gone, then soon to go will be the transmission lines, oil cooler lines and power steering cooling loop.

[95naSTA]

When I did my 95 I ordered:

http://store.fedhillusa.com/6nutpack.aspx (x1)
http://store.fedhillusa.com/m63.aspx (x4) - may have needed more than 4.. it was 3 years go
And proportioning valve ACDelco 19244448 (x2)

[SSEBonne4evr]

Thanks for the replies, a Tech friend is letting me borrow his flaring tool so when I get read in the spring
I'll just buy the lines and double flare any connections.

[MattStrike]

Compression unions are low pressure fittings. Say, 500 PSI max. Modern brake systems can generate 1200-1500 PSI or more in a panic stop. That's why you should always use the proper ready-made lines and the proper unions for them. Any decent parts store will have what you need to repair it.

Modern compression unions are good for much, much higher than 500PSI. Dorman makes some good for 5000psi (800-202).

[SSEBonne4evr]

Compression unions are low pressure fittings. Say, 500 PSI max. Modern brake systems can generate 1200-1500 PSI or more in a panic stop. That's why you should always use the proper ready-made lines and the proper unions for them. Any decent parts store will have what you need to repair it.

Modern compression unions are good for much, much higher than 500PSI. Dorman makes some good for 5000psi (800-202).

Question is, are you willing to pay $12 per union, or buy a flaring tool?
That is what Auto Zone is quoting.

[MattStrike]

Dorman was just a single reference, readily available at a parts store. If you're fixing a single line and only need two it still beats using that silly flare tool.

Another example;
McMaster-Carr, brass Yor-Lok fittings are $6.23 each, 2300psi.
I'm sure there are several others.