Clunking/Popping noise

[tyrael2304]

Hey all. I have a 1997 SSEi with 179000 miles on her. I have been having an issue with my front end for a while now. Let me tell you what I have replaced.. I have replaced the outer tie rod ends, ball joints, control arm bushings, sub-frame bushings, sway bar links, sway bar bushings. I purchased MOOG quick strut complete units for the front shock/struts. The only things I haven't replaced are the cv joints (which three mechanics said were good), and the inner tie rod ends (which I was also told were good). I've also replaced both engine mounts as well as both trans mounts. The parts have a max of 8000 miles on them. I have new tires with only 11000 miles on them. I've had the car aligned twice in the 8000 miles. I also have new kyb rear shocks. Here's the issue, when I accelerate there's a clunk/pop. It does it when I turn and when I'm driving straight. It's only on initial acceleration and sometimes when I'm stopping quickly. Also it seems to come and go. Some days it doesn't do it all, other times it does it every time. I've had it checked twice and no one seems to know what it is. Sometimes it'll make three or four pops when I turn and accelerate, sometimes only one. I would greatly appreciate any and all input. Any suggestions would be great. I'm pretty adept with cars and this has thrown me for a loop. Thanks for your time.

[J Wikoff]

Sounds like either or both the front trans and rear dogbone mounts. Look for sliding witness marks on the bracket for the dogbone underneath on the rear passenger corner of the trans. And look for movement in the front trans mount on the driverside if you're looking down at it and using your knees on the bumper to rock the car forward/backward.

[reb]

I have the exact same issue with my '97- EXACT!. Have not replaced nearly as many parts as you but have replaced/are replacing those that have obvious wear. My front transmission mount is broken and my new struts are making noise. Several mechanics find no issue with ball joints/control arms/outer tie rods/motor mount/cv joints/axl. I hope this round of parts solves my clunking/popping noise.

Here is what I have replaced trying to chase down source of noise:
Sub-frame bushings
Steering rack including inner tie rods
Sway Bar End Links
Sway Bar Bushings
Tires
Brake Calipers - a few yrs ago- check good
Front Quick Struts
Rear Quick Struts
Rear Springs

>Check your front transmission mount the rear underside rubber foot may have twisted out of position.
>Check your steering rack bolts. The rack bolts tend to loosen over time.
>Check your battery, my hold down clamp was loose and my battery was clunking around.
>Those MOOG struts are probably made by another company. The mounts on these could have plastic parts that are subject to early failure. Look up into the wheel well from below and see if the mount has shifted.
>Brake Caliper bushings could be worn.

[tyrael2304]

I have replaced all the mounts. They're all torqued and solid. It only started making the noise after I changed the struts. I'll double check everything. My calipers are newer as well. I also had my rack loose to do the intake manifold gasket, so that's tight. I feel the noise on the driver side front but I can't quite tell where from. I think it may be the strut mounts but the noise comes and goes so yeah lol. Thanks for the input guys. I'll check everything again. I'll keep ya posted.

[tyrael2304]

Ok. So I double checked everything. As far as I can tell everything is solid. Any other suggestions on the mystery clunk would be greatly appreciated! Thanks again.

[reb]

You have to remove the front struts from the vehicle in order to inspect the top side of the mounts for any defects.

[reb]

I replaced my broken front transmission mount so now I was really able to focus on my front-end popping clunking noise.

What I discovered is that the spring is binding up `as the front wheels turn.

tyrael2304 try this:

With your engine idling, leave your wheels turned to one direction so you can grab onto the spring. Try and rotate the spring back and forth 9-Oclock/3-Oclock. Then do the other side and see if you have any movement. I can move both my front springs and while doing so hear a suspecting noise. You can also see the springs move and watch as the plastic coil covering seat binds and releases.

Hope this helps.

I'm swapping my complete strut units out for another brand on Friday.

[tyrael2304]

Ok. Will do that on friday and give an update. Thanks again for the help..

[reb]

Based upon what I've learned, experienced and experimented with in the last month. I'm willing to bet that your front end noise if not from the struts is your lower control arm bushings. Yes, I know you wrote that you already replaced them. And you also wrote that the problem started after replacing the struts.

The issue with lower control arm bushings is that they have to be installed properly in the first place. Im sure you installed rubber moog style bushings. The control arm bolts need to be torqued when the weight of the vehicle is on them. I doubt your mechanic did this properly and torqued the bolts when the car was on the lift. This can and most often will lead to premature bushing failure. The other issue is that when you change the ride height of a vehicle. The control arm bushings are now bearing weight in a new area that may lead to the bushings failing. When changing the ride height, the control arm bushing bolts should be loosened and then re-torqued when the vehicle is on the ground bearing weight.

[tyrael2304]

OK. Quick question, is there any way I can take the struts out without having to have the car aligned again? Also, I do all the work on my cars myself lol. But I had the car on jack stands and I put a floor jack under the ball joints and jacked the car up til it lifted it off the stands, as far as I know simulating ride height. I actually have the books from the mechanics at the dealerships. Covers everything, but I haven't had the time yet to take out my struts. I've been stuck working on the wife's 2002 Chrysler 300m. But if I didn't actually simulate ride height by what I did please let me know asap and I'll check it the way you suggested. Thanks again for the suggestions.

[reb]

Get some white out and mark the location of the strut on the knuckle and circle around the bolts on both sides. Should be able to avoid re-alignment.

In regards to the LCA bushings, once the damage is done its permanent.