Lookin for HID Setup?

[Crankjaw]

Anyone have a post on here on how to hook HID

Or set up or anything please n thank you!

[drift7one]

calling CMNTMXR57, is CMNTMXR57 in the house? Im sure he has it on his clipboard just waiting to be pasted.

[CMNTMXR57]

Ask and ye shall receive. From what I have posted multiple times before and was a search away...

Are their PnP HID kits out there, yes. But they don't work well in a Bonneville's headlight housing. If you had a projector style housing you could get away with it, but a Bonneville's headlight assemblies ARE NOT projectors. Halogen bulbs and HID bulbs are two different filament burn or in the case of HID's, arc that create the light. The housing in your Bonneville, and it's reflecters in the housing are designed/aimed for the the filament burn of a Halogen bulb. All you're doing when you retro-fit a HID kit into a Halogen housing is refracting light uselessly at angles and directions that aren't actually helping you and potentially blinding oncoming traffic from this glare. Which is not only annoying if your the guy coming at you, but can be dangerous if you're blinding them.

So this leaves you to Halogen options. See what I posted below. Trying to achieve the look of a HID bulb will require you to increase the kelvin/color temperature rating of the bulb. For example, a stock Halogen 9006 or 9005 bulb is 3,100k. A factory HID bulb is 4,300k. So how does a halogen bulb increase it's kelvin rating to look more like a HID bulb? By coloring the bulb capsule. This in effect reduces the actual level of light output (or lumen output which is TRULY most important). So in order to compensate, they overdrive the filament. The downside to this, is that the bulb has the shelf life of a loaf of bread.

So to sum up, read below, don't try to look like a ricer making your bulbs blue (to acheive the kelvin rating similar to a HID with reduced light output), and concentrate on increasing the actual light output, or Lumen output over a stock halogen bulb. Your answer is the HIR2/HIR1 bulb. It won't give you the cool ricer blue, but it WILL give you increased lighting output over a stock set of halogen bulbs.

If you TRULY want HID's, you need to do a complete refitting of the light housing with projectors, squirrel finder correction and proper lens/refractors. That costs money and will be something you have to do on your own as only 1 or 2 people here have actually done that with a Bonneville headlight assembly.

Again, read below.

Your answer = HIR2 (low beam), and HIR1 (high beam) bulbs.

A few posts above mentions Silverstars. Unless these are imported German Osram Silverstars (which I am 101% positive they're not), the Sylvania Silverstars sold here at Pep Boys are absolute smurfing garbage. I don't care what "experience" you have had with them, they're are absolute horse manure!

Here are the cold hard facts about regular 9006/9005 bulbs and a Silverstar 9006/9005 bulbs (I posted these in the Lighting thread in the general area a week or so ago);

Your stock bulbs are 9005 (high beam), and 9006 (low beams)
9006 Lumen Output: 1,000 lumens
9006 Kelvin Rating: 3,100k
Life: 1,000 hours

9005 Lumen Output: 1,700 lumens
9005 Kelvin Rating: 3,100k
Life: 320 hours

Now, here are the Silverstar specs;
9006 Lumen Output: 1,000 lumens (the same as the stock 9006)
9006 Kelvin Rating: 4,000k
Life: 200 hours

9005 Lumen Output: 1,700 lumens (the same as the stock 9005)
9005 Kelvin Rating: 4,000k
Life: 100 hours

Silverstar Ultra's
9006 Lumen Output: 1,000 Lumens (same as stock)
9006 Kelvin Rating: 4,100k
Life: 200 hours

9005 Lumen Output: 1,700 lumens (same as stock)
9005 Kelvin Rating: 4,100k
Life: 100 hours

So... to sum up this little excercise, all Silverstars are, are blue tinted capsules. In order to maintain the OEM level of lumen output, they OVERDRIVE the filament in the capsule. This overdriving of the filament leads to a Silverstar having the shelf life of a loaf of bread. This means, you LOSE 800 hours of light bulb life between low beams and 220 hours of life between high beam bulbs. But because of the increased kelvin output due to the color capsule, you *think*, you're seeing more and "whiter" light. YOU'RE NOT! All you're doing is changing the light color temperature. Otherwise you're still putting out the same actual output (as measured in lumens). Because you "think" you're seeing more and that they're brighter due to the illusion of the color temperature, when they burn out in a week, you run back to Autozone or wherever and plop down another $30, $40, or $70 for another set, rinse and repeat. These are not my opinions, these are facts provided by Sylvania.

Silverstars are garbage! Repeat after me... SILVERSTAR'S ARE GARBAGE... Save your money, buy the regular bulb... it has the IDENTICAL output! Or if you want more lumen output, buy a set if HIR bulbs. Here are the HIR stats;

HIR2 Lumen Output: 1,875 lumens (or an 875 lumen increase over a stock 9006 bulb)
HIR2 Kelvin Rating: 3,600k (or a 500k improvement over a stock 9006 bulb)
Life: 800 hours

HIR1 Lumen Output: 2,500 lumens (or an 800 lumen increase over a stock 9005 bulb)
HIR1 Kelvin Rating: 3,600k (or a 500k improvement over a stock 9005 bulb)
Life: 300 hours

To sum up, vs. the low beams, these provide 875 more lumens of output vs. the stock bulbs or Silverstar (garbage) bulbs, you only pay a 200 hour penalty (but that's 600 hours MORE than the Silverstar crap), are a 500k higher than stock bulbs and about 400 - 500 k less than the Silverstar (garbage) bulbs (depending on the Silverstar crap you go with). Similar increases are to be had vs, the high beam bulbs too!

Don't waste time with freaking Silverstars!

[burger]

Hooking up hids is idiot proof, and some say only idiots install them. Its all plug and play.

[nos4blood70]

It's plug and play lunacy. I am about 3 inches away from installing HIDs in my fog lights and aiming them sky high, waiting anxiously for the next ******* to come at me with his HIDs. It doesn't look cool. It doesn't look professional. It doesn't do anything for you or for me.