Restoring the SSEi: F40 swap, HIDs, and a HY35 turbo.

[2000Silverbullet]

Nice looking hood scoop! Very Subaru-like.
Most prefer rear mounted extractors to vent heat and reduce lift.

[MattStrike]

I want to do both, scoop and extractors, but the engine set me back...

Edit: I was going for Ferrari not Subi...

[MattStrike]

Found the real camera! And almost fixed the speedo (pushed the needle on too far and it started sticking at 50, but that's fixed now)

Idle
http://s1057.beta.photobucket.com/user/ ... 1.mp4.html

0-65ish (about 7 seconds!)
http://s1057.beta.photobucket.com/user/ ... 4.mp4.html

[MattStrike]

Now the speedo reads the correct speed but gets stuck at 50, won't go higher than 60. Methinks I have the motor installed upside-down...

[MattStrike]

Yup, speedo motor was in upside-down. And I had a friendly visit from Chewy this evening, but I sent him packing.

[SSEiMan01]

Looking good Matt!

[MattStrike]

Since I've re-installed the engine I've been having an electrical drop out like a hiccup. It's random, inconsistant with driving habits or road hazards so far. But it seems to happen most often during an acceleration/deceleration. It's everything - lights, radio, dash, engine - and it's just a quick cut out then back in. It actually killed the engine once, as I was slowing down to a stop. I removed and cleaned/reinstalled the battery cables on the block/power distribution but it hasn't gone away completely. Ground busses were cleaned and terminals resprung when I had the interior out last year.

I'm going to relocate the ground wire on the engine to a dedicated stud tonight. A pair of lock washers out to help maintain good connection. I've got a pair of massive stacked plate trans coolers now too (courtesy of the junkyard), looks like one is a low pressure drop cooler. I'll get some pics posted once they're clean.

I wish the weather would hurry up and change to spring - I've got some body filler work to finish and a hood scoop to build..

[MattStrike]

Fixed the power issue. Replaced my starter relay, replaced the SC belt tensioner and installed some Autolite iridium plugs for the 3.2 pulley. Discovered that I may have been in need of plugs for a while when I took it for a test run.

[MattStrike]

Which cooler should I use? Both are stacked plate designs, but one has fins and the other doesnt. Argh!





Rebuilt gear reduction starter #2


New floor mats


Brake dust after 2 weeks...

[2000Silverbullet]

I would not recommend using a used transmission heat exchanger. They are nearly impossible to ensure clean inside with no debris from failed transmissions.
Better insurance to get a new one. The stacked plate design is better because they compensate for colder weather by flowing less and then opening up to be less restrictive in warmer weather.

Optimum trani temp should not be less than 130 F and not more than 210 F
Ideally 160 F
Generally a 10* F drop in average operating temp, will double the life of your trani.
Too cold and the pressure can pop seals at WOT.

[MattStrike]

I guess they are both 'stacked plates' but one has fins and the other looks like stamped fluid channels - I'll be using the first one I pictured I think. The other will go to the new LeSabre (oooh, that feels good saying out loud!)

[bs009]

I might have some of that canned cooler cleaner left over from when I cleaned out the cooler for my 94 regal. It won't clean it out completely but I'm sure it won't hurt to try. I'd probably blow air through it too aftwards just to be sure. You'll be using compression fittings and steel lines right?

ZZP recommends not using a transmission cooler due to the risk of leaking fluid. I'm sure if you used proper fittings though it shouldn't be a problem.

[MattStrike]

These were factory mounted, with the inlet and outlet facing down on truck applications, so any heavy sediment should have settled in the fins closest to the fittings. A little brake cleaner and gasoline will take care of any residue that managed to get into the fins. But the vehicles I pulled from did not have trashed transmissions to begin with.

The coolers have readily available flare fittings, so one side will go direct with a custom bent 3/8 line to the radiator and the other side will have a compression fitting, as well as a tap for a temp gauge on the line in to the trans.

[MattStrike]

That's funny about the fluid leaks, some people . I was just thinking that I've got leftover push-to-connect fittings that would do the job just as well.

In the meantime I'll be playing with another idea - a thermo-controlled valve to regulate flow through the cooler. I'll bet I could make one for 1/3 the cost of buying one..

[bs009]

I would be worried about the transmission not getting enough fluid if you tried something like that.

[MattStrike]

This is what was causing my goofy power cutouts:


It was located under the header, I think the heat made it unspring because it wasn't like that when I put it on. It is now above the header, which is temporary until I get a junkyard replacement this weekend.


Found a post extender, better than what was on it before (not because it's gold , but I can get a better clamp force on the terminals).

[bs009]

seems risky to run that wire on top of the exhaust. You couldn't go under?

[MattStrike]

It was under the header, and look what happened...

[MattStrike]

Got my pulley installed! 9.5lbs of boost with the 3.25". We did see a little random KR, less than 2 degrees. But I need to get a new motor mount.

[MattStrike]

Here is a video with the 3.25. The M90 whine now out-powers my exhaust.
http://s1057.photobucket.com/user/matts ... f.mp4.html

Next up: I found a brand new radiator in the junkyard. So I'll be installing that this week along with the trans cooler. I also cleaned out all the blue-tab ignition coils from the junkyard, bagged 7 of them. Once the radiator is in I should be able to call it good until I get warmer weather to finish the body work.

I think I'm satisfied with this setup. I have the 3.4 to drop down to in case the KR starts creeping up as the weather warms.

Interesting to note - I can use the stock belt with the 3.25 using the alternate SC belt routing.