Car Shuts off at Speed,HELP!

[dzaher]

Here we go guys, hope you might know of something!
Had a fuel pump put in and MAF not long ago for a bucking problem. I posted back in December.
The MAF fixed that problem.

Now very intermittently under acceleration(not hard) the car will shut off! Car runs great otherwise.
When it shuts off, the idiot and dash lights dont light up since I am in gear? I then put it in neutral, turn the key off, then restart the car, the car will start and then the dash lights all come on!! Then I am on my way.
This has happened like 3 times in the last couple weeks. I do believe I was at least slowly accelerating each time.
The scary one was on the freeway at rush hour yesterday at 65mph in the middle lane!
I have a newer battery and checked connections and grounds last night. Car is running as good as it can with 157,000 miles.
Note: I do have the PC solenoid problem with the trans that happens a couple times a month. It was acting up after yesterday's freeway incident happened. I only noticed it after as I shut the radio off and noticed the PCS was doing its act too when I got off the freeway.
Would that possibly be the cause of a stall out? Both problems are very intermittent.
This is not fun esp. yesterday when it happened. Right now its trade bait. I could not sell this thing to some poor soul at this point. The car is in great shape. But taking it to someone to find this is like going into a coal mine without a light.
Any help as always is appreciated guys!
Thanks
Danny
South Jordan, Utah

[Archon]

Are you sure the car is actually shutting off? Does the tach drop to zero? I had a similar problem several years ago where trying to accelerate slightly, it did nothing. If I let off the gas, and tried again, it would work fine - or if I floored it. Found the problem about a month or two later, when the CEL was set with a code for a bad front O2 sensor. Replacement cured the problem.

[dzaher]

Thanks for the info! I already replaced the 02(had that code when I had the bucking on accel), front one at the exhaust Y.

I believe in the three times its happened, I tried the gas but didn't back off and try again like you said. The tach goes down, no dash lights. I always play the radio, talk radio and listening to traffic reports.
It scares the crap out of you, so its hard not to panic esp. on the freeway! I then turn the key off,(put in neutral) then turn the key and then it starts, I rev it up to see the tach go up, then the dash lights come on. Meanwhile I put it back in drive and nail it! Dash lights go out after many seconds, just like at start up.
I am going to start driving it now in the right lane only, radio off and listening and waiting and try to get more clues.
Its a bad deal!!
It has a new fuel pump, MAF and the connector, and I put the front O2 sensor in also. It had a bad hiccup and bucking under acceleration that the MAF finally fixed. It has that PCS trans problem and has had it over a year, only acts up a couple times a month. But the PCS acted up yesterday, but I could only tell cause after, I had the radio off paying attention to everything including the finger I got from other drivers!! So I dont know if the PCS was doing it before it happened?
This cutting out could be a nightmare to find. I hate throwing money at it, but its dangerous. When it happens, the person behind me gets no brake lights!! I was so busy trying to find the flashers, and put into neutral, etc, etc. going 65 with cars all around me it was a wonder I wasn't rear ended! I kind of wish I would have in a way, it would have totaled the car and I still have it covered for collision!
Could it be a cat converter starting to plug? After a month of trying to fix the hiccup, I am sure that situation didnt help what went out the exhaust. As much as I recall, all three times it was under acceleration(mild,not hard).
I was wondering that a TPS with a dead spot? They aren't much from Rock Auto(30.00). Going to check that connection tonight.
Could be almost anything electrical. A pinched or loose wiring, etc.
I am inches away from trading it in now! Wouldnt sell it to anyone.
Thanks for all the help!
I will listen to anyone's ideas at this point.

[Archon]

What brand O2 was used? Many, except AC/Delco and Denso, do not last very long in our cars.

I doubt that the cat is the problem. You'll generally start to have severe performance problems well before it would cause stalling.

There are several things that could cause the engine to stall. What surprises me is that none of the lights on the dash come on during that time. That would indicate that the car thinks the engine is still running.

One of the more common parts that would cause the car to stall, and then be restarted is the crankshaft position sensor.

[2003 SSEi]

I have seen this before but usually under hard acceleration, and it was the Crank Position Sensor

[ramirez32385]

hey! i would agree and say most likely a crankshaft position sensor. i had a similar problem with the car turning off randomly.

[dzaher]

Thanks for the replies everyone!
I was going to try a TPS but that Crankshaft Sensor, I have heard a lot of horror stories about what it causes and I have not put one on in 60,000 miles since I have owned the car.
It did the problem a couple times over the weekend. Funny thing, it wont do it at steady speed. Seems to happen most of the time after I turn a corner and accelerate down the road a bit?? I might have the guy that put the fuel pump in to recheck his work, it was an AC Delco fuel pump.

I will problably get the Crankshaft Sensor for sure, I am sure its due.
Is it hard to put in???
I will just grab one off Rock Auto.
Yes, the car does not seem to know it stalled. Tried to give it gas this morning after it did it and nothing. Had to put into Neutral and do the restart process and fired right up. Its not a full out power problem as everything stays lit up, headlights, dash illumination lights, radio, etc.
Trying to thinkof all circumstances and most were after turning a corner, once coming to a stop and then getting back on the accelerator, merging into a freeway after a "a turn around kiss you button ramp", then accelerating and moving lanes quickly. Wondering about that fuel pump. Car never had the problem till the pump was put in. Car had a bad bucking problem that the MAF cured but even that tech had it stall out the week they had the car.
Think the fuel pump could be doing it with the fuel sloshing around in there after turning hard, etc??
Thanks for all the help.
Going to have the pump checked out and do the Crankshaft sensor.
Thanks to all
Danny

[richardg]

The crank position sensor is not too hard to take off but you will need to take the harmonic balancer off. You will need a puller and an harmonic balancer installer wouldn't hurt too . Might as well change the cam sensor too while you're at it (they're not in exactly the same spot-crank is behind of the harmonic balancer and cam is below the water pump)

[dzaher]

Thanks, nothing is ever easy. I got a puller but getting too old to crawl under cars anymore.
I ordered the Crank sensor and thought about the cam sensor, I will get that coming too if its there.
Thanks much!

[richardg]

Lol yea I edited the post to state where they were located just in case good luck. Oh and make sure the bolts are the correct size and long enough; I ran into that problem when I was taking mine off! the harmonic balancer is wider than normal because of the supercharger portion.

[dzaher]

Just for fun, where is the knock sensor?
Since I am doing some of these sensors, I might as well get it too.
thanks!!

[richardg]

I think there is 2. on on the back (firewall side) under the exhaust manifold. The other is by the starter.

[dzaher]

Thanks!!, not that expensive and might as well eliminate those also.
I will post you guys after. I am going to take it to the shop that did the fuel pump as it concerns me why it does this after I make a hard turn or a quick stop and start. But if I try to make it do it, as usual, it wont!!

[richardg]

ok FYI rockauto has it listed under "Electrical-Connector" then "Knock (Detonation) Sensor Connector". I have not replaced mine yet. They are ~$10 might as well. There is also an oil pressure sensor that goes bad and can make you're dash read 120 psi (or 0); mine would work some times and then die. Have you replaced the LIM gasket yet?

[dzaher]

If you mean the intake gaskets, yes, it has a new GM intake manifold too, at it was etched and put coolant in the oil 2 years ago.
Had my shop do that.
Is that what you asked? LIM?

[richardg]

Yes "lower intake manifold". And check the oil pressure sensor as well. They frequently leak and and cause the cluster to read 120 psi or 0.

[richardg]

What gasket did you use?

[dzaher]

I am wondering with 160M miles when they go to pull that balancer off if I better have a new one handy?
The car is 13 years old and I am sure when pull it, that rubber is about shot, you think??

[richardg]

The belts need to be replaced; that's the only rubber. Check for tears, cracks, or hardness and replace as needed. Mine has about 155k so right up there. It looks like it is the original one as well and it was fine. I don't think you'll have a problem.

[dzaher]

My Mustang that I had, I replaced the dampner(balancer) and they contained a rubber inner seal, like a sleeve that rots out and the balancer comes unhinged(apart) so to speak.
Thanks for the input!
So my balancer is probably ok but I will look at it before I take it in.
Too old, too many aches and pains to be doing that kind of stuff anymore. Use to do a lot of my own work. Not anymore!
Take care and all of you, Good Luck and Thanks so much!
Danny