Vibration and droning

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bopguy
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Vibration and droning

Post by bopguy »

Hey all-

My car still has a bad vibration at the 70mph range even after balancing all 4 wheels, new outer tie rod ends and an alignment.

What I have noticed though. I believe the drivers side front strut to be bad. It has a bad popping from up top. I can see the coil spring moving in the upper pocket causing the clunking noise. With that said, any recommendations for struts only I'm just going to reuse my springs. What struts for a smoother ride?

Also the car vibrates pretty bad. At low, low speed the car vibrates the interior a good bit, as well as a deep droning noise in the cabin. Bad motor mounts? If so, which was is the most commonly replaced?

So do you think the above can be my vibration around mph.
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Re: Vibration and droning

Post by 2000Silverbullet »

You could have a bad tire. It's quite common for one of the belts to disbond and move creating an imbalance that cannot be balanced out.
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bopguy
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Re: Vibration and droning

Post by bopguy »

Hmmm, I thought that the repair shop would've pointed that out. Although they did seem a little shady. They were suppose to balance all 4 wheels. :dontknow:

This car is starting to give me more gray hair.
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Re: Vibration and droning

Post by 2000Silverbullet »

I can see the coil spring moving in the upper pocket causing the clunking noise. With that said, any recommendations for struts only I'm just going to reuse my springs. What struts for a smoother ride?
It could also be bad struts. Yes reuse the springs. Sensatrak struts or Bilstein gas.
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2000 SSEi - SilverBullet - 78,000 kms, 4" "straight shot" custom headlight ram air inlet, TOGs, 1.9's, Lsd, 2.9-3.4"MPS 10-15 psi, Ported GenV, EGR eliminated, OR pushrods, oil volume kit, trani cooler & shift kit, Titanium retainers, 90 lb springs, 160 Stat, 42# injectors, Fuel pump voltage increase, Wideband O2, 3" to dual 2 1/2" Magnaflows, Snow Meth/water injection, after SC temp gauge, 255/50WR17, timing commander set 15-18*@WOT, 2 speed Fan over-ride, disabled DRL, Solid motor mount, Meziere Electric water pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Drilled & slotted rotors/ceramics, GXP sway bars and STB, Upgraded and rebuilt transmission with ZZP 2500 rpm stall TC, Pioneer Bluetooth stereo with sub and 800 W amps, PB 13.5 quarter, (April 2014 car of the month)
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Re: Vibration and droning

Post by repinS »

Bilstein is traditionally going to be a much more sporty damper that will give a stiffer ride. Do they even have an application for the 2000+ Bonneville? For an SE/SLE/SSEi, most will suggest the Monroe Sensatrac to retain stock ride quality. You're looking at part number 71685. It generally represents the best balance in terms of performance, price, and quality. If you're over 100,000 miles and still have your original struts, it's definitely a good time to do it. Be sure to pair them with new strut mounts & bearings. This is likely the source of the movement you see. Don't cheap out and reuse your old mounts - I learnt the hard way:

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For your high speed vibration, inspect your ball joints and lower control arm bushings. For the low speed vibration, when do you feel it? When you turn the steering wheel? When you're on the throttle?

To answer your question in your other thread, when you do struts you need the aforementioned strut mounts (usually a strut bearing is included in the kit, verify before purchase), and it's often a good idea to replace your strut boot too. Inner/outer tie rods, ball joints, and your wheel bearing (hub assembly) may not be a bad idea while stuff is already open.
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Re: Vibration and droning

Post by bopguy »

repinS wrote:For the low speed vibration, when do you feel it? When you turn the steering wheel? When you're on the throttle?.
It seems like just the very low rpm range. From idle to about 1100 or so. So it's from park, first gear up until 5mph or so and sitting idle in gear. Turning does not alter or initiate the vibration. But the vibration is very noticeable. I have attached a picture of all that i hope is needed for my strut job. Does this look about right?

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Re: Vibration and droning

Post by repinS »

The Monroe 902998 mount kit is for the rear. Monroe 902972 is the one you want for the front, and it includes the bearing. This means you can delete AC Delco 901001.

If you're doing struts only that should be all you need.
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Re: Vibration and droning

Post by bopguy »

Thank you very much for your help!
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Re: Vibration and droning

Post by bopguy »

So I found this old thread....I think I may have found my vibration issue! I threw the P0420 code too. And I noticed that the vibration is primarily when it's cold. Does that make sense? :dontknow:

http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... 18&t=25163
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Re: Vibration and droning

Post by 01bonneSC »

Does your car vibrate when in park?
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Re: Vibration and droning

Post by bopguy »

01bonneSC wrote:Does your car vibrate when in park?
Yes it does, but not quite as bad as when in gear. (expected I think).

But the vibration is just about non-existent once the car is warm.

It has a fresh tune-up, engine runs smooth as a kitty cat. You can look at the motor when running and you can't even see it move. The motor mount looks to be solid as well.

So I'm still leaning towards the catalytic converter as mentioned in the link above.
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Re: Vibration and droning

Post by 00Beast »

The motor shouldn't be moving if it's just idling, lol. It makes sense it vibrates more when in gear, as it's shaking everything out to the wheels, and being held against the brakes.
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bopguy
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Re: Vibration and droning

Post by bopguy »

00Beast wrote:The motor shouldn't be moving if it's just idling, lol. It makes sense it vibrates more when in gear, as it's shaking everything out to the wheels, and being held against the brakes.
LOL....I meant the motor wasn't moving as in misfiring or bad tune up. The link I posted above about the catalytic is one that you made. So I'm basing you fix as my solution! Thanks.
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