Rotors and pads

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FiendScurro
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Rotors and pads

Post by FiendScurro »

New to the forums and was wondering if i could have some input on what type of rotors and pads to get and whether or not to get new calipers or just to paint them. Brakes are prob 80% but i recently moved to the country so i need better stopping power to avoid animals. Ive been looking and prices vary a lot. any links or ideas are welcomed:)
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Re: Rotors and pads

Post by 00Beast »

Honestly, anything designed for the street (ala anything available for your car) is going to give you the same stopping power you have now, unless you go with a caliper with more pistons, ala the F-Body caliper upgrade. I use stock-type NAPA Ultra Premum Pads all around, with Ultra Premium Rotors in the rear and EBC Ultimax rotors up front (from when I thought they made a difference).

The one thing that will make a difference in your pedal feel and effective stopping pressure is flushing your brake fluid with fresh DOT 3/4 fluid. That makes a huge difference in how the brakes feel. Brake fluid is the most overlooked, and should be changed every 2-3 years, or 30k.
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Re: Rotors and pads

Post by Father of Seven »

What is your budget? For a poor Man… just slap some cheep squeaky semi Metallic pads on… NOT.

I used some nice premium cold galvanized rotors and the best ceramic pads that Wagner makes… I am a poor man so I stayed with stock calipers. I popped the pistons; changed all fluid to DOT 4 … new pins; New seals; ultra synthetic grease… cleaned power wire wheeled & chiseled brushed outside; and don’t laugh…Ha! Painted exterior with… a mixture of Zinc anti size and oil… Ha!!! I put that mess everywhere… Happy stopping…
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FiendScurro
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Re: Rotors and pads

Post by FiendScurro »

how hard is it to do a caliper rebuild? and do slotted and cross drilled rotors add anything worth the cost?
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Re: Rotors and pads

Post by 00Beast »

A: Not that hard, but not worth it when chinese rebuilt calipers with all the new parts are $50 and the parts to rebuild are $40-ish...

B: Not at any kind of street level.
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Sirius wrote:Think about it. You’re tooling down the road in your Prius, knowing full-well that this thing being green is as big a sham as federally mandated ethanol-enriched gas, Russia pulling out of Ukraine, and Obamacare.
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Re: Rotors and pads

Post by FiendScurro »

breaks seem less money now that i am not investing in slotted or drilled maybe ill throw that money over to getting new calipers but i wont know till i check them out this week sometime. Elsewhere in the forums Napa premium rotors seem to be 50/50 among forum members. Guess that means its user dependent and there is no real answer lol. ill prob pick up full set of rotors and pads tomorrow when i get my plugs and wires
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Re: Rotors and pads

Post by Father of Seven »

How "clean" is the Car? Gravel Roads? Hope not. If the pistons “Push Back” OK... you might be ok...? If I buy New rotors I always Rebuild calipers and change fluid. If I am not “doing the calipers”… and the rotors do not pulse… I just throw new pads on. Period. But, You should check to see what the manufacture recommends…
I do not drive the Bonneville much, but I believe the Bonneville stock will stop well. Now if we were talking GM Grand Prix… well I can whistle Dixie and Yankee Doodle before that car even thinks of stopping…!
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Re: Rotors and pads

Post by 01bonneSC »

You want a hi quality rotor. Mass is the name of the game here. Cheap rotors warp easy. Make sure you bed the new pads in well to the new rotors to maximize BRAKING.

You should not have to buy new/rebuilt calipers as long as they push back in ok and you dont feel one hanging up when you brake at the moment.

Make sure you clean and grease your caliper pins.

Changing the fluid to new would be something to think about. Old fluid gets, well, old and can get moisture in it. It heats up and looses is viscosity making it compress instead of just getting pushed.

Also check your rears, they only do 20% of the braking but they do help your fronts last longer.
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Re: Rotors and pads

Post by FiendScurro »

Is there a safe way to change out break fluid i've had some back luck with past cars and breaking bleeder valves. Gotta love NY rust
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Re: Rotors and pads

Post by 00Beast »

Spray the bleeders in a good penetrating fluid the day before and don't force them.

Brake fluid absorbs water, which is why it has to be changed, and it absorbs copper out of the lining of the brake lines and other parts, which contaminates it as well.
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Re: Rotors and pads

Post by 01bonneSC »

This will help make quick work of it. wont need to pump it by the pedal....relatively inexpensive...

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