lololol, have another update

[yourgrandma]

Made a couple big orders this week to (hopefully) get me most of what i need to set up the new build. I still need some gaskets and misc doodads, but the main components are accounted for.

ZZP: Medium load valve springs, modified steel retainers, viton valve seals, n* tb adapter plate and tps adapter harness, maf adapter, throttle body turndown, aem wideband a/f guage, gen v rebuild parts, probably some other expensive crap I'm forgetting...


Intense: S1x camshaft, oil pressure kit, fuel pump hotwire harness, bottle of supercharger oil.

Still need a new fuel pump, probably all the sensors on the engine, a metric grip of gaskets, hoses, fittings and still gotta grab my electric water pump from the crackhead who owes it to me.

So this thread will be my dumpster for rants about the upcomming motor build/swap. I've got a heluva list going so watch out for mass posting if I ever get moving.

So sick of driving the oldsmobile.

[00Beast]

Wait, I thought you got rid of the Olds?

Can't wait to see it all come together bud. Need some help?

[RogueSSEi]

Gotta keep us in the loop with some pics of the build!
I wouldn't mind knowing how to do some of the motor work that you're about to tackle, like how to install the valve train, N* stuff and the electric water pump: Please Sir, some photos and writeups lol.

[yourgrandma]

Ed, the intrigue is basically my truck. Can't get rid of that. And yeah, ill take all the help I can get.

Pics will definately be a big part of this thread. Some of this stuff isn't covered in tutorials or writeups that I've seen, so ill try to be thorough about documenting everything.

[00Beast]

When are you gonna start? Kinda when stuff shows up and you have time?

[nos4blood70]

Can't wait to see it all put together. Pics are a must.

[yourgrandma]

I'm still working on getting my new workspace ready and I need a few more tools but I'm hoping to start this weekend. Either pulling the old motor or starting to put the l32 together. At bare minimum I need to reassemble the blower and start making my intercooler spacer. Should also be able to mount up the fmhe and get some of the other stuff done to the car. Fuel pump, filter and hotwire, install the harness for the electric water pump, tidy up some electrical...

There's no shortage of work to be done. Definately need to hit it hard this weekend. I'm glad I have my fridays back.

[00Beast]

Sunday? I should be free....

[yourgrandma]

Ed, if you're down, I won't turn down the offer. Maybe I should just host a meet. That'd be a great way to con a bunch of people into helping. Lol.

I'm still looking for a decent engine removal tutorial. I'm going out the top, and it looks like it might not be too bad.

With my terrible adhd I think it would be wise to make a detailed plan/schedule and stick with it. So here are the preliminary steps to getting the new engine ready:

-reassemble gen v
-machine intercooler spacer(wbs core protrudes into lim, making a delrin spacer to avoid runner blockage)
-machine, port/polish and paint LIM
-mock up pcv and vacuum setups
-mock up and alter fuel rails as needed
-clean up intake ports with a delicate hand(not pulling heads to port)
-scrub down motor and paint it
-install cam, valve seals, springs, retainers
-install freshly painted valve covers, curse the universe when I scratch and chip them
-install lim, IC core, blower with new bcs and bpv(tb and turndown will have to wait til the engine is in the car)
-install oil pressure kit

Obviously the order isn't perfect but that's most of what needs to be done to the new engine. My plan is to get the new one totally ready to go before starting to remove the old one. That way ill have much better motivation to get my ass to work.

[yourgrandma]

Got the garage cleaned up and mostly setup for the project. Here, have some pics.


Who likes parts?








Some things about my new motor that have me worried:

L32s have the same block down to saying "Series II"? Wierd...


Little sludgy. Grrr...


Rusty exhaust valves. Worry?

[myfirstbonnie]

Put the valve covers on last. Just before putting the alternator on and you will not have to worry about scratching them.

On both of my L32's they just said 3800 series on the block. My L67 looked like yours. Did they tell you that was an L32? What did it come out of?

My L32's: (both from 2006 GP)



My L67: (my original)

[Bing]

You could have one of the in between L32's. When they were using up the rest of the L67 blocks but put the L32 internals into them.

What year car did they say the motor came from?

Because if I'm remembering correctly they started using up the L67 blocks in 04-05 range before they were using L32 blocks and internals together, anybody please correct me if I'm wrong.

[MattStrike]

Rusty valves might lead to having to machine the valve seats in the heads, if any were open or lapping doesn't clean them up. Don't re-use rusty valves, but you probably already knew that.

[yourgrandma]

From what I've read, best case scenario I have a very early l32 which is actually an l67 with a gen v. Since I bought it as a longblock, I get nothing extra out of it.

Also sounds like I need to pull the heads and have them machined. At that point why not replaced all the bearings, have the crank machined, put in new rings...

Why did I bother buying this at all? Its not like its better than my current engine and I certainly haven't been able to drive the car.

[RogueSSEi]

Sorry for being ignorant and changing the topic for a minute, but what's the advantage of using a L32 block over the L67? I thought the L67 was the best of the best as far as the blocks and internals go?

[yourgrandma]

L32 rods are stronger and the exhaust valves are .03" bigger. Plus being a few years newer is usually a nice thing but in the case of the one I got, its no help.

Looks like insted of cleaining it up, putting the cam in and putting the lim etc on, ill be pulling the heads, stripping them and inspecting the bottom end. With my luck it has three spun bearings and chipped pistons.

[yourgrandma]

Cars for sale.

[deano55]

Are L67 rods prone to breaking? I have read the newer powder metal rods dont do well handleing rpm's over 6k for long.

[myfirstbonnie]

Cars for sale.

Don't sell it! Take what you have and work with it. Don't be in a rush and do it right the first time. You know you have one of the best resources available right here.

As for that block. If you are going to pull the heads, then pull the pan too. Scrub and flush everything from the top. With the engine on the stand, rotate it to where it is almost upside down and put some cardboard down and clean everything and let it fall down. I would clean it with just a good brush and a few picks to get in the grooves. Are you planning on pulling the lifters out? Do you know how many miles were on that engine?

From a personal experience with both types of rods, I will put my money on the L32 rods being stronger. My L67 spun a bearing and busted a rod. My 1st L32 had a valve spring break and drop the valve. The rod survived, but the piston, well...........................





it ended up in the oil pan. Granted it was 2 different types of failure, but both put a lot of stress on the rod.

[olblueeyesbonne]

Actually, the turbo crowd is finding L36 over L26/L32 due to the powdered Series III rod's breaking easier, despite being supposedly stronger due to being powdered in the somewhere-in-05(?)-09.

I have to say I would look into just doing a quick test like I was texting you and see if a quick overnight soaking of one valve with penetrating oil cleans things up, but admittedly the valve-seat would be a bit of concern.