Make it accelerate faster?

[firstbonnei1994]

So this is the first I have been considering doing performance upgrades. I have read the stickies and it seems like CAI would help.

I know I'm suppose to get the maintenance done first. For past couple weeks my car has been shaking on start up like after the engine is on but once you start driving you don't feel it or even if you're idle. Just on the start up. I went to jiffy lube for the oil change and asked them and they said its for the spark plugs and i should get them replaced.

I have been searching up and it seems like there is such thing as performance spark plugs, but on the sticky here it says the oem spark plugs are of really good quality. Should i get better spark plugs or just some usual stuff?

To me the car is fast but only when its on a roll like on highways it takes me no time to get to 110 or so. Seems like after 30mph it's easy to accelerate but from dead stop, it seems really slow? what could be the reason besides it being heavy. Anything to over come this?

Cold air intakes have good reviews on them when put on bonneville. Am i gonna need a tune to get the increased hp and mpg or no?

It's an SLE unfortunately :(

[PLAGUE PHANTOM]

A cold air intake will kill your performance due to the fact if it drawing hot air from the engine bay. People who do a mod like this go for an Intense FWI. It is the best bang for your buck and it really wakes up your 3800.

[RogueSSEi]

...running a premium fuel with NGK TR55 for your spark, clean the MAF sensor and run some Seafoam through the motor. Make sure the plug wires are in good shape. Yeah it may seem slow from a dead stop, remember it's a heavy car. Bonneville's were but for comfort not speed

[J Wikoff]

Unless you do heavier mods or tuning, run 87 and stock type plugs (ACDelco Professional Iridiums) in you L36. A CAI with a heat sheild won't pull much hot air. I made mine from the "rice pipe" and a shield of bubble/foil insulation, and my intake temps are right at ambient.

[MattStrike]

A true cold air intake is the same as a FWI = draws cold air from outside the engine bay.


I put a cold air intake together for $60 in parts from the hardware store. I have a lot of tools, and a different engine bay layout. The FWI is probably the easiest option for the '00+.

There are some performance plugs (had a friend who loved his pulstars - snakeoil in my opinion), but the standard OEM copper plugs work perfectly fine. I think Iridium plugs only offer greater lifespan. Using a quality wire set (like belden from NAPA) with OEM plugs works for me. The ignition coils themselves need to be checked for good spark and the resistance across the secondary coil, OEM coils from a junkyard work good as replacements if needed. I've also had good luck with Borg-Warner coils in the past.

I'm not sure on the slow part, may be due to the needed maintenance, but it could be the computer is tuned to save the trans and tires from excessive wear? I'm sure the '00+ people could tell you.

Edit: I guess I need to type faster, and OEM plugs are iridium for these.

[01bonneSC]

Did you read this thread?
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=25655&hilit=common ... +questions

Get all your maintenance done. Stock plugs(NGK or Autolite copper core) since you are N/A, run a good 87 octane, use Beldin premium wires from NAPA.

A high flow cat and 2.5" down pipe will help and also a PCM tune.

Performance is really what your expectations are and how deep your pockets are. You will hit a wall with an L36. If you want a fairly high ceiling of mods you can do and keep it streetable, sell or SLE and buy an SSEi or do a full L67 drivetrain swap. Turbo is also an option but I dont like turbos unless they are on a diesel, my personal opinion.

The transmissions are the weak points in these cars.

[01bonneSC]

Also take a look at your fuel filter, if it looks pretty cruddy/old, replace it.

[sandrock]

The L36 is a diamond in the rough. Literally.

The recepie I used on my '97 SSE:

Stock L26 long block (Same as the L36 aside from powdered metal rods, which are lighter and stronger)
New L36 upper intake
L67 Throttle Body, water jacket epoxy-filled and reshaped the port to mate with the L36 manifold
L26 fuel rail (it's returnless), 24 lbs. injectors, 1999-03(?) Corvette fuel filter (has internal FPR)
Swapped the 3.05 final drive with the HD differential, giving me 3.29 final drive
HP Tuners-tuned PCM (2005 Impala 3.8 PCM flashed with 2003 GP GT operating system)
3.5" aluminum intake tubing, K&N cone filter, mounted in fenderwell

With all that, my ScanGauge II showed a consistant 245 hp and 260 lbs.ft of torque. Coupled with the 3.29 ratio, it was a VERY fun car.

[J Wikoff]

The stock plugs aren't iridium, necessarily. I just said that because you can get them in the stock heat range, and would work well on an L36. L67, I go copper.

[firstbonnei1994]

Thanks for really informative answers, though I'm a noob at this so still learning.

It seems like people have mixed opinion on spark plugs but a true cai or FWI will help me?

I would love to get an SSEi if my wallet allowed me to.

Would you guys say it would be better to save up for an SSEi or do some mods?

It seems like that even with some mods and tuning, i won't even be able to beat SSEI?

One of the other concern is that the car has221000 miles on it

I got it on 214000 and it has ran 7000 miles without any problems so far!

I know miles are just the numbers, but idk how the previous owner kept it, i have done maintanece on my part. So considering the condition of the car, would you just say its better to save for ssei instead?

I really like the car but I just get confused that if i spend too much miney on it, and it decides to die on me soon, it will be a waste sort of

[firstbonnei1994]

Thanks for really informative answers, though I'm a noob at this so still learning.

It seems like people have mixed opinion on spark plugs but a true cai or FWI will help me?

I would love to get an SSEi if my wallet allowed me to.

Would you guys say it would be better to save up for an SSEi or do some mods?

It seems like that even with some mods and tuning, i won't even be able to beat SSEI?

One of the other concern is that the car has221000 miles on it

I got it on 214000 and it has ran 7000 miles without any problems so far!

I know miles are just the numbers, but idk how the previous owner kept it, i have done maintanece on my part. So considering the condition of the car, would you just say its better to save for ssei instead?

I really like the car but I just get confused that if i spend too much miney on it, and it decides to die on me soon, it will be a waste sort of

[RogueSSEi]

If you can find one for a far price, sure scoop it up. But for now yours is fine, gets you from point A to point B.
The mods really is up to you on what you want to do to it, are you looking to make it into a track car? Street/ strip? You mentioned being able to bet a SSEi.
IMO being a student and having that many miles I would keep the maintenance up and repair any leaks if any, and look for an SSEi if your looking for a "peppier" car, but this is my 2 cent.
Really depends on what your finances look like.

[firstbonnei1994]

no def not on track just something that can accelerate faster. I don't race around, but being young i sometimes have urge to accelerate faster.

Is Ssei really that fast compared to sle?

How does SLE compare to 99-04 V6 mustang? i know mustangs are lighter but sle has more hp and torque to my knowledge.

[RogueSSEi]

Is Ssei really that fast compared to sle?

How does SLE compare to 99-04 V6 mustang? i know mustangs are lighter but sle has more hp and torque to my knowledge.

Stock? I've never used mine to race so I have no idea on that one.

[nos4blood70]

SLE's are boats with an anchor. There is no comparison. Mine has a tune, FWI, ported exhaust manifold, ported lower intake manifold, colder plugs, new wires, and still it's not even in the same ballpark as an SSEi.

[sandrock]

I'd say the lower gear ratio would be one of the things to make it feel peppier around town. The highway economy will suffer a little, but not much.

[00Beast]

First off: Stop going to Jiffy lube. They use the worst quality oil and filters money you will find, anywhere. Yes, it gets you around, but it's not doing you any favors.

Have you seen this:

• 1987-2005 Bonneville / Buick 3800 Maintenance List
  
  Run Seafoam, Chevron Techron or Gumout Regane through gasoline every 5,000 miles.
  
  Grease: Ball Joints, Tie Rods Every 8-10k ( Green Grease or Amsoil Grease recommended)
  Air Filter Every 15k (Amsoil EaA, Purolator PureONE)
  PCV Valve Every 30k
  MAF Sensor Element Cleaning/TB Cleaning Every 50k viewtopic.php?f=48&t=1661
  Fuel Filter Every 15-25k (Purolator, AC Delco, WIX) http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... 45&t=23215
  Spark Plugs Every 30-50k (NGK TR55, AC Delco 41-101 or Autolite 605) (Never Bosch)
  Ignition Wires Every 30-50k (Napa Belden, AC Delco, Autolite Pro, NGK) (Never Taylor or Bosch)
  Oil & Filter Every 5-6k or Every 6 months (Valvoline SYNPower, Pennzoil Platinum, or Amsoil )(Mobil1, Purolator PureONE, Amsoil EaO, K&N or WIX) (Never Fram) viewtopic.php?f=45&t=214
  *Conventional Oil Every 3k/3 months(API SM/SN rating) (WIX (Napa), Delco or Purolator filter)
  Tires: Check Inflation Pressure & Visually Inspect Monthly Rotate Every 6-8,000 Miles
  Transmission Flush or Pan Drop Every 15-20k (Always make sure filter is changed when flushed) viewtopic.php?f=45&t=10193
  Cooling System Flush Every 25-50k or 3-5 Years (Peak or Prestone Mixes-With-Any Coolant Only) (Never Dexcool)
  Oxygen Sensor Every 80-100k (30k for non-heated) (AC Delco or Denso) (Absolutely never Bosch) viewtopic.php?f=48&t=794
  Accessory Belt Inspect every 15k, replace every 100k, or as needed
  Cabin Air Filter Inspect and Replace every 15k, or as needed in dusty conditions. (Note: 00+ Only) viewtopic.php?f=45&t=13626
  Evap Core Cleaning Whenever Needed (Note: 99 and older only) viewtopic.php?f=45&t=2432
  Brake Fluid Flush 3yr/50k
  Power Steering Fluid Replacement/Flush Every 100k or 5 years
  
  *Special Considerations*
  All Series II/III 3800's RPO's: L36, L26, L67 & L32, especially important on vehicles factory installed with orange Havoline Dexcool Antifreeze/Coolant: http://www.dex-cool.net/
  Lower Intake Manifold Gasket Replacement, every 80-100k (ignorance of this can allow coolant to enter your engine oil, this happening can cause irreversible lower engine damage, requiring replacement of subject engine)
  
  Series II, Naturally Aspirated, RPO:L36:
  Upper Intake Manifold Plenum Replacement, Every 80-100k (ignorance of this can allow coolant to enter your intake manifold, possible damage to occur can be hydrolock, irreversible damage to emissions devices, misfires, etc. Most times, engine replacement is required if ignored long enough.) viewtopic.php?f=53&t=1061
  
  Series I, II, III RPO Code L67 & L32:
  Change Supercharger Oil; Every 30-50k. (Intense Racing or GM Dealer) viewtopic.php?f=56&t=1690
  Supercharger Belt; Inspect Every 15k, Replace Every 100k or as needed.

7/10/2012 by 00Beast

[LakevilleSSEi]

SLE's are boats with an anchor. There is no comparison. Mine has a tune, FWI, ported exhaust manifold, ported lower intake manifold, colder plugs, new wires, and still it's not even in the same ballpark as an SSEi.

You need Rockers....then you'll get up there....I had a 98 SLE with rockers and a Intense PCM, and a stock/lightly modded SSEi I could hang with.

Anyways, just like others have said, stick with keeping up on the maintainance with your car, and save up in the background for the SSEi....Yeah your SLE isn't as fast as you'd like it, but just enjoy the ride.

[LeSabre in Buffalo]

At 221,000 miles, I'd start saving for a SSEi. The engine is fine, but the transmission is living on borrowed time if it's the original, or was rebuilt a while ago.

Enjoy the SLE as it is, and put the mod money into the SSEi fund.

[firstbonnei1994]

It seems like i would be much better off buying an SSEi or some other car than modding this especially with that many miles.

I have a question about maintenance and don't want to create a new topic. For past week the oil pressure sensor has been funny.

It's fine staying around 80psi then sometimes you would see it coming to 0 and id have the message on the screen to check oil gauge. then it dances around 0-120. Though i drove the car after for a couple days and nothing wrong checked the oil and its fine but last night it did the same thing but on my way it was fine after. Im guessing the sensor is going bad or something is touching causing it to act funny. Any takes?