The Hell of removing sway bar end links

[Ken_W]

Just encountered this for the third time in my short wrenching career, on three different GM cars.

It concerns stabilizer bar (aka "sway bar") end links. The nut on top comes off easily, along with the first rubber piece, but then the rest of it will not budge. I tried everything I could think of -- penetrating oil, using jack to raise/lower wheels on both sides, bashing with hammer, etc. That darn bolt will NOT budge at all. It's like it's welded in there or something. For the third time in a row I've had to give up and take the job to a shop to complete what would otherwise be a simple suspension procedure (replacing front lower control arm in this case).

Surely others have encountered this problem. How do you get the *&%$! thing out?

Ken_W

[yourgrandma]

Removing both sides at the same time makes it easier. I usually dont have much trouble with them.

[J Wikoff]

Reciprocating saw.

[95naSTA]

^^ this.

[Ken_W]

So in other words there is no solution -- you just gotta cut them out?

In a way, I find that reassuring. At least I now know I didn't miss something simple.

@yourgrandma - if I can't get the first one out, how would i get the other side out? Wouldn't i just have the same problem over there if I tried doing that one first? In my particular case I got it to where the sway bar was not even touching the bolt, and it STILL wouldn't come out. The binding is coming from the other end (either the control arm or the remaining rubber bushings).

Ken_W

[J Wikoff]

In my limited experience with them, the metal sleeve, if it has one, corrodes solid to the bolt. The last set I did, I had to cut the first one off. The second end link essentially fell apart after soaking with PB blaster a bit longer than the other side. I happened to be replacing it within probably a few miles of failing on its own.

[yourgrandma]

I thought you were having them hang up in the eye. If its rusted solid, yeah cut it or use a forked pry bar.

[CMNTMXR57]

Two other options...

1) Breaker bar. But of course you run the risk of actually snapping the bolt.

2) Heat. If you're replacing the bushings, then this isn't an issue. Just get the torch out and heat that puppy up, once it's glowing hot, let it cool. Heat expansion and cold contraction can sometimes break frozen stuff loose.

[DCJREDLINE]

Have ALWAYS cut them, never learned to even bother trying to unbolt them. Always worked on GM cars too so maybe thats why I learned it that way

[yonkerss]

Just did the fronts on our '04 Buick Rainier had to cut them. Planning on having to do the same when I do the rears soon.

[MattStrike]

A cutting wheel on a die grinder makes quick work of these nasty things.

[LeSabre in Buffalo]

I didn't have electricity when doing mine so a hacksaw was needed to cut them off.

[Mad Myche]

I had no problems breaking them on my B-Body with everyday teenage-angst empowered driving

[RogueSSEi]

A cutting wheel on a die grinder makes quick work of these nasty things.

^^ What I used

[deano55]

I didn't have electricity when doing mine so a hacksaw was needed to cut them off.

ouch!!

[Madcarpenter]

Is using 'Kroil' not even a viable option for disassembling these parts? That stuff makes O2 sensors and rusted solid exhaust manifiold bolts come off.

[01bonneSC]

Yeah cut, melt, etc etc, how ever you choose to get em off. Cant be too nice with em.

Shoulda seen what the Taurus endlinks looked like when we got done with them from warranty. (plastic, oxy torch, blowing black crap out my nose for the rest of the day).

Old on top, new design on bottom. Both are horrible imo.

[Jrs3800]

I break out the 19.2v Craftsman Reciprocating Saw for that.... There is more than one way to remove stubborn parts...lol

[LeSabre in Buffalo]

Is using 'Kroil' not even a viable option for disassembling these parts? That stuff makes O2 sensors and rusted solid exhaust manifiold bolts come off.

Most of us aren't lucky enough to even know about Kroil, much less able to get paws on a few cans of that magic elixir. I just might order a few cans along with some Kreen for older, neglected cars. Kano Labs makes some awesome products!

[Madcarpenter]

Is using 'Kroil' not even a viable option for disassembling these parts? That stuff makes O2 sensors and rusted solid exhaust manifiold bolts come off.

Most of us aren't lucky enough to even know about Kroil, much less able to get paws on a few cans of that magic elixir. I just might order a few cans along with some Kreen for older, neglected cars. Kano Labs makes some awesome products!

It's worth it, and should be included as a secret weapon in any Rust Belt mechanic's bag of tricks.

Google 'Kroil', and go to Kano Labs' website via the search engine results, and the mfgr. offers a special two can package at reduced price. I think it cost me $16 for two TALL spray cans of 'Aero-Kroil'. Should last a looong time, since a lil bit goes far, especially if you don't waste it on ordinary squeaks and rattles. (That's what WD-40 is for.). But 'PB Blaster' is a decent second choice, and easier to find locally.

A machinists magazine did a test where they claimed their homemade mix of equal parts acetone and ATF exceeded even Kroil's magical properties, but many who've tried it say that the two dissimilar viscosities make mixing them difficult for more than a few moments, then they separate like oil and water...