Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's, Olds 98 91-96, Buick Lesabres and Park Avenue 91-96. Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.
Hey guys,
I have been having a small oil leak for some time, thought it was from a bad LIM gasket and valve cover gaskets. I've replaced both, the top end is dry. I changed the oil pan gasket when I bought the car and I highly doubt that this is the culprit (I even checked the bolts to see if they was all to torq specs and they was). So I was having my exhuast installed today and took some pics of the general area. Now these aren't the best pictures but bare with me, its was a "hurry" type moment. Any advice would help greatly.
The muffler shop guy said it could be the oil pressure sending unit, I don't know much about this but my in-car gauge is working properly (if this even has to do with the oil pressure unit). Sorry for shaky pics.
The only way to really pinpoint it would be to clean the entire engine down with brake cleaner (my preference, but maybe an engine degreaser would work as well), make sure all areas are dry, and run the car while up on the lift, looking for the first signs of oil wetness.
I just get a gallon of the super clean stuff in the purple jug and a spray bottle. Up on the ramps and spray everything real good and hose it off. A couple times to get the heavy stuff.
Drive it for a couple days and put it back on the ramps and see where it is coming from. If you do this atleast a couple times a year, you will be amazed at how clean it will come and keep clean.
Alright I will try this. Could it possibly be the oil pressure switch? I read in the Tech forums about the pressure switch, but nothing that covers oil leakage, just inconsistant oil pressure readings
I forgot to mention, 4-7-2012 I changed my transmission filter/fluid so this area is pretty well clean, I also wiped down the oil pan/filter when I did this change. The main area that the oil is coming from is in the oil filter area, (maybe a leaking oil pressure sensor OR the actual gasket that the oil filter housing attachs to the block, could this be an issue?) from up top it looks like my power steering pump might be leaking but its fluid level is good and has no signs of leaking. Thanks for any advice
pressure sensor could definitely leak, and it would be in that area mentioned. Supposed to be pretty good access if you take the pass side wheel off, from what I've read. I was able to see mine pretty good from underneath, and it should be easy to see if it's dry or wet with oil. There are 2 different switches, depending if you have a gauge or indicator light, I believe.
Power steering and tranny fluid look and smell different than motor oil. Wipe some of it from the engine on a clean paper towel, then check your crankcase dipstick with the same towel. Compare. Do the same with the tranny dipstick. Note the smell of each. Or maybe put a piece of white cardboard or paper under the car overnight. What color are the drips; red or brown?
Is the cap tightly on your power steering pump's reservoir? Is the steering noisy? It took me nearly five minutes to find it the first time I wanted to check the fluid after I bought my wife's '95 SE. Its cap was camouflaged beneath a light film of grime, and disappeared against the bottom of the engine compartment, and that motor is clean. The pump is so far down in there (thanks ! Haynes Manual, for insisting that it's topside ), it'd be hard to know if it even HAD a cap on it. (except for the puddle in the driveway, or the squealing pump...)
CLEAN FIRST, then see what color, from what location, why it's leaking, and then fix it.
I'd be hard pressed to believe you'll be able to narrow it down without cleaning it. Any oil can run down and spread to many far away locations with gravity and air turbulence from driving.
Also, wrong end of the motor to be the rear main seal, and I doubt it's timing cover/front seal, but possible. Clean, then we can go from there...
Bye Bye: RIP sandrock
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Madcarpenter wrote:Power steering and tranny fluid look and smell different than motor oil. Wipe some of it from the engine on a clean paper towel, then check your crankcase dipstick with the same towel. Compare. Do the same with the tranny dipstick. Note the smell of each. Or maybe put a piece of white cardboard or paper under the car overnight. What color are the drips; red or brown?
Is the cap tightly on your power steering pump's reservoir? Is the steering noisy? It took me nearly five minutes to find it the first time I wanted to check the fluid after I bought my wife's '95 SE. Its cap was camouflaged beneath a light film of grime, and disappeared against the bottom of the engine compartment, and that motor is clean. The pump is so far down in there (thanks ! Haynes Manual, for insisting that it's topside ), it'd be hard to know if it even HAD a cap on it. (except for the puddle in the driveway, or the squealing pump...)
Yeah it has fresh oil in it, from a comparison like you mentioned, doesn't have that motor oil smell to it that's for sure.
Bing wrote:CLEAN FIRST, then see what color, from what location, why it's leaking, and then fix it.
I'd be hard pressed to believe you'll be able to narrow it down without cleaning it. Any oil can run down and spread to many far away locations with gravity and air turbulence from driving.
Clean it!
Lol those pictures was from a cleaning and drive for about 320 miles, and hitting some back roads in VA
Last edited by RogueSSEi on Tue Apr 24, 2012 7:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Also, wrong end of the motor to be the rear main seal, and I doubt it's timing cover/front seal, but possible. Clean, then we can go from there...
Yeah that was from a clean and drive with 320 miles on it, It almost appears to be the head gasket from up underneath the car with a good flashlight, but who knows
Last edited by RogueSSEi on Tue Apr 24, 2012 7:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Clean it again (DEGREASED, DE-OILED, and DRY) it's the only starting point to be able to have a chance of finding the source of this mess.
When you have it clean and dry from top to bottom start it up and just let it idle up to temp. Then shut it down and inspect for leaks. If no leaks are found go for a short drive 5-10 miles, then check it out throughly when you get back.
You'd be amazed how far just a little bit of hot oil on a hot surface can spread.
Bing wrote:Clean it again (DEGREASED, DE-OILED, and DRY) it's the only starting point to be able to have a chance of finding the source of this mess.
When you have it clean and dry from top to bottom start it up and just let it idle up to temp. Then shut it down and inspect for leaks. If no leaks are found go for a short drive 5-10 miles, then check it out throughly when you get back.
You'd be amazed how far just a little bit of hot oil on a hot surface can spread.
Thanks Bing, I'm going to do that when all this weather clears up. I know this may sound stupid but by spraying degreaser and cleaners on or near electrical connectors is not a good idea, right? I used what I had left of the typical engine degreaser for underneath, but it wasn't much. Any particular "safe" kind of cleaner would you recommend?
I have notice though that the two oils are different, like the fluid that is everywhere on the bottom of my engine doesn't look or smell like motor oil, I know this also could be from road conditions and weather...
Last edited by RogueSSEi on Wed Apr 25, 2012 11:49 am, edited 1 time in total.
I sprayed the bottom, some of the top and belt drive of the engine today since weather permitted. I'm going to let it dry over night and check on it in the morning.
), it'd be hard to know if it even HAD a cap on it. (except for the puddle in the driveway, or the squealing pump...)
