Heater problems on 1995 SE

[Brutus]

Greetings All,

I haven't posted for a while, but I still read here often. I now have a 95 SE with the automatic heat control. I've done some searching on the site, but haven't yet found the exact answer. There is SO much information here. Coming here is kind of like going to the library for me...I just like reading the posts and it's so easy to get distracted and off topic.

Anyway, here is the problem. My heater seems to have a mind of it's own. Recently, it has been 40-50 degrees F here in Minnesota. Sometimes my heat is like a blast furnace and I need to drive with the windows open. This morning, coming to work, it was 15 degrees F. The car was COLD!

I did turn the temperature all the way up to 90, then down to 60, then back to 75. That did seem to help somewhat today.

It did have a battery fail recently. I replaced it. Now, the temperature display flashes when I first start the car, so I assume there is some code in the climate control system.

I've been looking for a used FSM, but do not have one yet. I hate to shell out $130 US for a new one. Is there a way to retreive the codes from the climate control system like the pre-1993 vintage cars? If someone does have a FSM, can they post the procedure for pulling codes on this model? Any other information of fixing the heat is appreciated too.

I do have a FSM for year 2000 if anybody wants to trade...?

[RPACODY]

My guess is because you replaced the battery the climate control it is trying to “relearn” and needs to fully open and close the air mix door a few times. There is a plastic gear in the air mix actuator motor that is prone to crack and won’t allow the full range of the relearn process. On my 95 Buick I pulled the glove box and could see the actuator motor was not moving full range. When I pulled the motor and took it apart I found the common problem cracked gear.

here is a good write up by Jrs3800

viewtopic.php?f=49&t=3537

[Brutus]

Thanks for the prompt reply! I haven't dug into the problem yet, but it sounds like this is the solution.

Is there anything that needs to be done to clear the flashing temperature light?

Thanks so much!

[imidazol97]

Is there anything that needs to be done to clear the flashing temperature light?

After you fix the problem it's sensing, it will turn off after a preset number of engine starts where it does not encounter the error again.

However, my replacement programmer on my 98 has flashed whenever the temp is cooler than springtime. I suspect it's getting a low freon signal when the pressure drops in the system due to cold temps. Everything operates fine, so I just ignore it.

[Brutus]

Update: Well, I tried working on it last weekend.

I couldn't get the (I think it's the HVAC controller) out of the way so I could access the airmix actuator (AA). After several hours of no success, I gave up and turned it into a local shop.

I got it back the evening of 3/16/12. They said the AA was working properly. They added 1.5 pounds of freon, told my wife when she picked it up, that the heat and A/C worked. She did not check it, but I did when I got home. All it does is blow heat. The heat does seem to change to the different areas (windshield, floor, etc.) when changed on the ECC.

Even when the heater is set on the coolest setting though, it ALWAYS blows heat...very warm heat in fact.

So, I'll be visiting them Monday when they are open, to do this

They did not install the AA. Tomorrow morning, I might try it again. I need A/C for the summer and properly functioning heat in the winter.

Any other tips/hints tricks for doing the airmix actuator? I can't recall if it was this site or another, but there was a guy who said his first one took several hours, but after he learned how to do it, he could do it in 20 minutes.

[RPACODY]

as i recall you need 1/4 drive set, wobbly, small end wrenches and patients trying to find a position you can work in (by feel) and need a couple breaks. think the dealer says pull the dash but - it can be done without that - were you able to see if the airmix actuator is getting full range or was clicking in a stuck position? been there and feel the pain but still don't think I could do it in 20 min - maybe 2 hrs. Gearheads might have better advise as I have only done it one time

[Brutus]

I could see and hear it move, but I don't know if it is in the right position...it must not be, because even when it should vent cool air from outside, to inside the car, it is always warm.

[RPACODY]

should be a smooth operation with no jerks and move from hot to cold as you move temp up down - unhook linkage and try moving blend door in manual mode while changing temp control see if you can get cold . try again to pull the actuator (motor) take apart and check for broken gear - could be stripped gear with limited movement

[Brutus]

Update: I turned it into a shop. The old guy I've been bringing cars to for years didn't want to mess with the airmix actuator...so now I am going to work on it.

I'm stuck. I am working on it this minute, have a sore back, so I thought I'd take a break see if anybody is online to help.

Again, it is a 1995 SE. I have the glove box out. The lower hush panel is off. I can move the HVAC controller out of the way a little, but it seems like something on the top side will not let it drop down. The vacuum lines and an electrical connection will not let me move it further.

I can not get my arm up there to even feel the bolts (I'm 6'0", 240#...beefy arms).

I really don't want to do it the way the FSM says to (remove dash, do it from top).

What am I missing?
What do I need to do? (who lives near Minneapolis and wants to come over and do it? )

[RPACODY]

if I was close I would work for beer

keep at it - try through the glove box maybe a little duck tape on the edges so you can get your arm in further and reach it

- here is one method - not recommended but entertaining

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cPMbdTpC9Tw

[Brutus]

The above video is funny, but it's be funnier it this was happening to somebody else : )

Anyway, I've ordered a FSM, but it has not yet arrived. I've read that the FSM suggests doing this job by removing the dash.
I just can't get my arms up in there from the bottom. I wish I could. Too many other things contributing as well...bad shoulders(bone spur), bad back, I just can't do it. I'm glad I didn't become a mechanic when younger...having too many health problems.

How hard is this job to do by removing the dash? How many hours?

I've never even removed a dash on one of these and don't want to break anything. Any suggestions for that process?

[RPACODY]

maybe you could remove the cover on the heater ?

http://www.gmforum.com/showthread.php?t ... +pull+dash

[Brutus]

maybe you could remove the cover on the heater ?

http://www.some other club.com/showthread.php?t=240914&highlight=remove+pull+dash

Link not working

[RPACODY]

Link was about changing a heater core - was just wondering if you could get the cover off the heater could you reach the actuator - not sure if it would help.

[Brutus]

I'm turning it in to a dealership Friday.

[Krenzy]

Where in Minnesota are you? I'm in New Ulm.

[Brutus]

I live in andover, 27 miles north of minneapolis

[Krenzy]

Sweet I'm familiar with Andover. I had a friend who lived in North Branch and drove through there a few times.