problem with bonnie only when u try to accelerate

[savagecowboy_69]

i have a 92 sse when i start the car it runs and idle great but as soon as u touch the pedal it dies. the fuel pressue is where it should be spark plugs are good maf is brand new oil change was done less that two months ago so was fuel filter. im thinking it is the fuel pressure regulator but i would liike to hear u guys ideas.

[Bob Dillon]

Anything else electrical going on? Gauges weird, dying while driving?

If your fuel filter is new and you have adequate fuel pressure I don't think your FPR is bad. When you checked fuel pressure, did you take to vacuum line off during the check? Fuel pressure should jump up about 10 psi when you do so.

If so, I'm thinking ignition problems rather than fuel delivery.

[savagecowboy_69]

no other electrical problems and yes i pulled the vacuum line but it did not jump at all, and if it is ignition then would it be the icm

[Bob Dillon]

no other electrical problems and yes i pulled the vacuum line but it did not jump at all, and if it is ignition then would it be the icm

If the fuel pressure doesn't jump up about 10 psi when you pull the vacuum lead, the FPR is bad. Replace it.

And just for giggles, when's the last time you cleaned the battery cables? They corrode badly, and it causes a lot of prob lems in our cars. Be sure to pull off the big insulators on the ends to see if they're corroded underneath.

You'll need a set of snap ring pliers to replace the FPR but it's about a 10-minute job, which I suspect will cure your ills.

Yes, if it has ignition problems it would probably be the ICM, but let's work on one problem at a time.

[savagecowboy_69]

ok will replace fpr and the battery cables were replaced about 2 yrs ago. thanks thats what i thought it was but i had an instructor trying to tell me that it was something electrical when he was there for the fuel pressure test.

[savagecowboy_69]

ok well i finally got the money to replace the fpr and ... no change the car still wont accelerate and dies as soon as u hit the gas

[savagecowboy_69]

ok put some sea foam through a vacuum line going into the intake and then i put some into the gas tank and got it to stay running but it wont go above 2- 2.5 grand. gonna try later and see if it will rev higher.

[savagecowboy_69]

still wont rev up but now it back fires... sometimes

[00Beast]

Sounds like a coil or ICM.

[savagecowboy_69]

*dang* anybody have the electrical specs for the coils and the icm so i can check it with my dmm

[MattStrike]

Something like 8kohm across the secondary coil, but you can also check for weak spark by pulling a wire off a coil while running and noting the color of the spark. If it's blue, it's likely okay, if its orange or yellow or not in time then bad. Careful not to shock yourself...

Also, a flat-out bad mass aiflow sensor can cause this. Unplug it and then see how the car runs.

[savagecowboy_69]

ok thanks on the resistances and the maf is like brand new

[Larry Larson]

There is a detailed article about testing the coil packs in the techinfo section. I've had the same problem as you 4 times in the last 2 years. Various causes. Crank angle sensor, main engine computer, bad plugs, bad battery, catalytic converter. Your problem does sound electrical. Also check out the ignition control module. There's no way to test it, so you'd have to switch in a good one from a junk yard and see if that helps. Sometimes they sell them as a unit that includes the coil packs.

[savagecowboy_69]

thanks tested the coil its good (all three) had a friend come over and between the two of us we think it is a clogged catalytic converter. im gonna disconnect it tomorrow and see if the car actually revs up.

[00Beast]

The problem is that the coils don't always test bad. Mine tested fine with an ohmmeter, but one was causing a misfire...

[MattStrike]

Visual of the spark condition is a better way (plastic pliers help)

I've had brand new sensors that were bad out of the box, it happens occasionally. The '93 would work up to the point where the sensor stopped responding then instantly die (in this case that happened to be about 2k rpm). It started only at the top end and quickly worked it's way down to that point before I got to change it. It's incredibly easy to disprove this theory as well.

I've also had a plugged cat. The car would run for 1.5 seconds, then die unless you gave it a lot of throttle because the downpipe flange was spring loaded and the HP would force the springs to compress and the exhaust escaped out the gap it created.

[savagecowboy_69]

me and another tech went through the car testing everything we could even switched out his coils for mine and the problem was still there i am at a point where i am about to just take it to the salvage yard and see what i can get for it. we cant find the problem i am gonna clean the injectors and see where it goes from there

[ijreed]

I had that same issue. It was my converter.

[savagecowboy_69]

the converter was disconnected today and ran for 3 hours like that its not the converter

[MattStrike]

I know cars can be very trying at times (6+ years trying to diagnose a problem where my LG3 only made 75hp). I'd hate to see another land in a yard...

What tests did you end up doing, what did you find? If coils are okay, I'd check the throttle position sensor next. What RPM does it idle at, any SES light, etc... Can you check to see if the spark is cutting out when you hit the throttle?