Tracking and Antilock again

[lubben3]

A year ago the tracking and anti-lock lights on my 2001 SE would come on intermittently over big bumps or, it seemed, in very wet or wet and snowy weather. Scan at Advance indicated right wheel signal. I replaced the wheel hub and the problem disappeared. For the past few weeks the lights have returned and an Advance scan indicated right wheel signal again. So, I replaced the hub again. I thought the problem was solved but tonight I rode over a rail crossing and the bump knocked the lights on again. Pulled up at an Autozone at the next block and once again, it shows signal from right wheel. I replaced the hub three days ago and I have to drive my family 1300 miles from Virginia to Minnesota in four days. Does anyone have any ideas?

[00Beast]

What brand hub did you use? The cheapies don't last.

Have you checked for worn/broken/frayed wiring?

[lubben3]

My mechanic got a new one from Advance when I had it in the shop this past Wednesday.

I should also add that if I turn off the car, the lights do not go on again when I start up and the car works fine. Until I hit a bump or something and need the system to work, that is. There's a lot of treacherous driving between southwest Virginia and Minnesota and I'd feel worried to leave without the safely braking system.

[00Beast]

That doesn't surprise me. The system resets when the car is shut off till it detects a fault, then it kicks out. It's either the hub or the associated wiring. I would try a better brand of hub. I prefer Timken, but SKF and National are good brands too.

[lubben3]

Well, the ABS/Tracking doesn't shut down unless there is a jolt to the system. Usually. Although I remember the system going off last year without a jolt. But then why did replacing the hub solve the problem for a year? And why did replacing it again this past Wednesday solve the problem until today? So, a wiring problem then? What or which wires would be involved? Once the hub has been replaced, I'm in the dark about what to try.

[00Beast]

But then why did replacing the hub solve the problem for a year?

Because that's how long the sensor lasted. My hubs from NAPA lasted a few months apiece. Sounds like you you got lucky with your first one.

[lubben3]

The hub only lasted three days?

[00Beast]

I've seen crazier things. Those hubs are made in China with little to no quality control.

[lubben3]

My mechanic replaced the wheel hub again and put some goo somewhere in the hub or wheel to help with a connection. Everything was fine for the rest of December and January. But last night I hit a small bump and the system went out again. I turned the engine off and the system reset but I'm anxious that in an emergency situation I could lost the antilock and tracking again. Any ideas fellow Bonneville enthusiasts?

[00Beast]

Grill him on the hub brand. If it's a cheapie/no-name, order a Timken from either Amazon or Rock Auto (whichever is cheaper) and take it to him and insist he installs that.

[01bonneSC]

Grill him on the hub brand. If it's a cheapie/no-name, order a Timken from either Amazon or Rock Auto (whichever is cheaper) and take it to him and insist he installs that.

[imidazol97]

Timken from either Amazon or Rock Auto (whichever is cheaper)

Autozone sells Timken as well. Last time I wanted a Tinken they didn't have it Rockauto at that time. They had had them earlier when I did my left front, but I didn't want to wait for the 2-5 day delivery.

[00Beast]

Yes, and Autozone charges twice as much for Timken parts. If it has to be done that day, then it's worth it to pay whomever has it to get it. If you can afford to wait, it pays to shop around.

[Ken_W]

This is one area where brand does matter. It has been shown time and time again that no-name hubs die quickly. Store brands (for this part) are no-name-brand Chinese parts thrown into a box with the store brand printed on it. If you purchase one of the three brands that Beast00 listed above, you will likely never have to replace your hub again.

Note, however, that the car is still driveable. The only thing that failed is your sensor in the hub. The wheel will not fall off, and the car will not careen out of control. The only issue (other than warning lights on the dash) is that you do not have traction-control and ABS until this is resolved. While this might sound scary, consider that some cars aren't even made with these features in the first place. Should you get it fixed? Yes. My point is that it is not an emergency to have this problem, and the car is still safe to drive. You'll just have less "insurance" if you hit a patch of ice or snow, but good old-fashioned driving skill can still help with those things.

Ken_W